What Could This Be!!!!!!
Hey,
Ok, I recently got back my rebuilt head, included a valve job, new seals, and other things on my 1989 Honda Civic Std. 1.5 liter fuel injection car, it has no fuel injectors, its like a carb. So I spent all day yesterday putting it back together, and this morning putting in oil, spark plugs, etc. So when I fired it up..... bang it went on, BUT I had to spray starter fluid in to make it start, then it would stall. It would not idle, or keep running if I tried with the gas. The motor sounded very very good, loud but wouldnt keep running. I checked all wires, I believe they are in the right spot, I am pretty certain, I checked fuel pump, it has alot of pressure. I have no clue what to do! Any ideas?? Please help!!!!! I can show pics if needed.
Simon
Ok, I recently got back my rebuilt head, included a valve job, new seals, and other things on my 1989 Honda Civic Std. 1.5 liter fuel injection car, it has no fuel injectors, its like a carb. So I spent all day yesterday putting it back together, and this morning putting in oil, spark plugs, etc. So when I fired it up..... bang it went on, BUT I had to spray starter fluid in to make it start, then it would stall. It would not idle, or keep running if I tried with the gas. The motor sounded very very good, loud but wouldnt keep running. I checked all wires, I believe they are in the right spot, I am pretty certain, I checked fuel pump, it has alot of pressure. I have no clue what to do! Any ideas?? Please help!!!!! I can show pics if needed.
Simon
If the ecu is throwing a code, you need to find out what code it is and then go from there.
Here is a list of codes for the 1988-1991 civic:
1988-1991 Honda Civic Engine Error Codes:
Code # cooresponds to the number of flashes reported by the ECU.
Code # Circuit or system Probable cause
0 Faulty ECU Inspect the number 1 fuse. Replace if necessary. Also check for open circuit in the YEL wire between the #1 fuse and the combination meter. If no open circuit is found, have the wiring harness checked at a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop.
1 Oxygen content Check oxygen sensor and replace if necessary.
3/5 Manifold Absolute Pressure Check MAP sensor and replace if necessary.
4 Crank angle sensor Check crank angle sensor and replace if necessary.
6 Coolant temperature Have the vehicle checked at a dealership service department.
7 Throttle angle Check throttle angle sensor and replace if necessary.
8 TDC Position Check crank angle sensor and replace if necessary
9 No. 1 cylinder position(1.6L) Check crank angle sensor and replace if necessary
10 Intake air temperature Check intake air temperature (TA) sensor and replace if necessary.
12 Exhaust Gas Recirculation System Check EGR valve and EGR system.
13 Atmospheric Pressure Have the vehicle checked at a dealership service department.
14 Electronic Air Control (EACV) Check electronic air control valve and replace if necessary.
15 Ignition output signal Possible faulty igniter.
16 Fuel injector Check fuel injection system.
17 Vehicle speed sensor Have the vehicle checked at a dealership service department.
19 Lock-up control solenoid valve (auto-tranny only) Have the vehicle checked at a dealership service department
20 Electric load Have the vehicle checked at a dealership service department
Here is a list of codes for the 1988-1991 civic:
1988-1991 Honda Civic Engine Error Codes:
Code # cooresponds to the number of flashes reported by the ECU.
Code # Circuit or system Probable cause
0 Faulty ECU Inspect the number 1 fuse. Replace if necessary. Also check for open circuit in the YEL wire between the #1 fuse and the combination meter. If no open circuit is found, have the wiring harness checked at a dealer service department or other qualified repair shop.
1 Oxygen content Check oxygen sensor and replace if necessary.
3/5 Manifold Absolute Pressure Check MAP sensor and replace if necessary.
4 Crank angle sensor Check crank angle sensor and replace if necessary.
6 Coolant temperature Have the vehicle checked at a dealership service department.
7 Throttle angle Check throttle angle sensor and replace if necessary.
8 TDC Position Check crank angle sensor and replace if necessary
9 No. 1 cylinder position(1.6L) Check crank angle sensor and replace if necessary
10 Intake air temperature Check intake air temperature (TA) sensor and replace if necessary.
12 Exhaust Gas Recirculation System Check EGR valve and EGR system.
13 Atmospheric Pressure Have the vehicle checked at a dealership service department.
14 Electronic Air Control (EACV) Check electronic air control valve and replace if necessary.
15 Ignition output signal Possible faulty igniter.
16 Fuel injector Check fuel injection system.
17 Vehicle speed sensor Have the vehicle checked at a dealership service department.
19 Lock-up control solenoid valve (auto-tranny only) Have the vehicle checked at a dealership service department
20 Electric load Have the vehicle checked at a dealership service department
it could be any of these things-loose or faulty electrical connections at distributor,coil or alternator/insufficient fuel reaching the carb or injectors/vacuum leak at the im gasket or tb gasket
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Hey,
Ok thanks.... but when I undo the fuel pump cap, fuel will shoot very high so its not the fuel pump. I didnt put ground wires on (or at least all), think that would matter??
Simon
Ok thanks.... but when I undo the fuel pump cap, fuel will shoot very high so its not the fuel pump. I didnt put ground wires on (or at least all), think that would matter??
Simon
Hey,
Also my battery was dead and jumped started it.... a new battery wouldnt work would it. Everytime I started it it would be off the jumper cables. The ECU light flashes once when the key is turned right before it turns one more time for ignition. Thanks again for the help yall!
Also my battery was dead and jumped started it.... a new battery wouldnt work would it. Everytime I started it it would be off the jumper cables. The ECU light flashes once when the key is turned right before it turns one more time for ignition. Thanks again for the help yall!
Hey,
Well there are two front ground wires and only one is attached to a side bolt, not where I have seen it in most pics but I didnt think it would matter. I let the car sit with the jumper cables for about 20 minutes.... so...... I dont think its the battery though. Ill try it though.
Well there are two front ground wires and only one is attached to a side bolt, not where I have seen it in most pics but I didnt think it would matter. I let the car sit with the jumper cables for about 20 minutes.... so...... I dont think its the battery though. Ill try it though.
Check your ground wires again, put them all where you've seen in the pictures. I re-painted my valve cover once and put the ground wire in the wrong spot, the car started, but ran like crap. It would run but the radio kept turning on and off, on and off, blinkers turned on and didn't blink, and it'd eventually idle around 500 rpm, just enough to keep it from stalling. I even sanded the paint off the contact point and it didn't help...Until I found the correct ground and I haven't had any problems since.
Sounds like your ground. If someone has the same engine maybe they could post picks of the ground locations.
Hope works out.
Sounds like your ground. If someone has the same engine maybe they could post picks of the ground locations.
Hope works out.
Hey,
Ok connected all ground wires and checked distributer for any problems. It is all fine there. Tommorow I am going to mess with timing, that seems to be the popular thing among people I have asked. Thanks!
Simon
Ok connected all ground wires and checked distributer for any problems. It is all fine there. Tommorow I am going to mess with timing, that seems to be the popular thing among people I have asked. Thanks!
Simon
Hey,
Ok today I messed with the distributer and turned it different ways like how you adjust the timing that way, didnt do anything different. I was wondering if it is still worth taking the timing belt off and messing with all of that or should I look into the fuel lines and injection now? Thanks!
Simon
Ok today I messed with the distributer and turned it different ways like how you adjust the timing that way, didnt do anything different. I was wondering if it is still worth taking the timing belt off and messing with all of that or should I look into the fuel lines and injection now? Thanks!
Simon
dood are you getting fuel?do your injectors work?are you getting spark?basically motors are not that complicated,until you get to the electrical parts..how does your motor run now?give us some more details on what its doing
Hey,
Basically I have no idea if I am getting fuel. I would suspect so as if I undo the bolt on the fuel pump fuel will shoot out at a high pressure. I dont know if the injectors work... how do I find out? I am getting a spark, it only runs with starter fluid being shot into the motor and then only does it run if I keep shooting it in. Bare with me you all I am only 15
I am building the Civic as an SCCA ITC car for next year, I race karts right now.
Simon
Basically I have no idea if I am getting fuel. I would suspect so as if I undo the bolt on the fuel pump fuel will shoot out at a high pressure. I dont know if the injectors work... how do I find out? I am getting a spark, it only runs with starter fluid being shot into the motor and then only does it run if I keep shooting it in. Bare with me you all I am only 15
I am building the Civic as an SCCA ITC car for next year, I race karts right now.Simon
im not sure how to test the injectors,but im sure other people on here could help you on that,i would get a new fuel filter and clean those injectors if they work,then i would get a good tune-up..good luck with racing
Hey,
Ok so if I am not getting fuel, what would you reccomend? I do have a spare motor with a fuel injection system on it, should I switch them and see what happens? Thanks!
Simon
Ok so if I am not getting fuel, what would you reccomend? I do have a spare motor with a fuel injection system on it, should I switch them and see what happens? Thanks!
Simon


