Whats up guys... I have been working on this ******* this since yesterday and its just been one problem after another.
So first off I got codes 4, 10, and 13.
Moved some wires and came up with just 13, started the motor and now I get code 13 and 9.
How do I fix the Baro sensor and do you think the ignition timing is off and thats giving me the code 9?
I need help with this stuff so any of that would be great.
Also, anyone know what size ruber ring to get for the liquid to water oil cooler on the back of the block? I got an oil leak there (Maybe not tight enough?)
Also, there is a ******* mystery coolant leak somewere, anyone had trouble with this?
Oh, and on top of all this the engine idles at like 3000 rpms...

 

Idle at 3k wow
My recently swapped zc still idles at 1200 at I feel sad for ya

 

Wow, thanks for your comment **********... Why dont you just rub it in some more you fuckface.

 

dude calm down. you got 4 and 10 fixed now, all thats left is 13. Anybody know about code 13?

 

No, I got code 9 and 13 now. Pluss an oil leak and a coolant leak to fix... I am pretty sure most people can understand were I am coming from greg, I dont want to hear howwell everyone elses motor is running (Because thats all the information I am getting anywere! "That sucks for you, mine works great")
I want to know how to go about fixing the problems so I can drive my car...
Can you blame me for being frustrated? Four months of no car man. I am beyond a little anoyed.

 

damn, another code...you get one fixed and another appears...

 

Exactly, thats why I was all tripin out when I was at your work today... Didnt you notice I looked a little out of it? I been pulling my fricking hair all day bro. So far I have fixed like four codes and everytime I fix one another pops up! When I finaly get down to 13 I am like !YAY! then I start the car and the idle goes back to **** at 3000 rpms and it starts throwing me a 9....

Oh, and on top of this I hondabonded the hell out of were we thought the oil was dripin from the pan and it turns out its coming from the oil to water cooler (Yet another problem with that thing) But hell, at least I know were its leaking now... Still dont have the faintest ******* clue were the coolant is escaping.

 

Bump...

 

code 9 no# 1 cylinder position
code 13 atmospheric pressure

check your wiring again.

 

check your dizzy wires. mine did the exact same thing. the 2 new wires u have to add in the dx version to the dizzy gets mixed sometimes. but now i have no codes

 

Ok well I got it to idle lower (1500-2000) but the idle is still fluxuating and I still got a code 13... Good news is there are no more codes and I fixed the oil leak, bad news is it looks like the coolant leak is iether coming from my water pump or the coolant rail behind the block

So all I got to do is finish fixing the idle, fix code 13, and fix this damn coolant leak and I will be a hapy man.

Oh yea, I checked all the wiring and it looks good... Checked it like fifteen times.
Anyone here know were the little hose coming from the bottom of the cylinder next to the map sensor goes?

 

on the MAP sensor you should have vacuum hose from port on throttle body, right next to the red braided cloth covered hose that goes to the purge cannister - just to the right of the MAP sensor is the purge cut-off solenoid valve - on the front of the intake manifold you have 3 vacuum ports - the center (larger) is for the PCV - the one on the left should have a line from it to a tee with one branch of the tee going to the dashpot on the throttle body and the other branch going to the bottom of the purge cut-off solenoid valve - you should have another line from the side of the purge cut-off solenoid to the purge cannister - the third port on the front of the intake manifold (on the right) should have a line to the fuel pressure regulator - some cars (usually Si) had another solenoid on the firewall just to the right of the purge cut-off solenoid - it is the fuel pressure cut-off solenoid valve and if so equipped, the vacuum line on the right front of intake would go to the bottom of the pressure cut-off solenoid with another line from the side of it back to the fuel pressure regulator - if your ZC was from an automatic, it will have vacuum ports on the backside of the intake manifold just to the right of the throttle body - plug them

 

Tou rock man... You realy realy do... Do you think that could be the source of my code 13?
Now that I droped two of my bolts down in the valve cover I got to take it off and fix it... Might as well look for that coolant leak as well.
You guys have been ALOT of help!

 

check behind the dash on the kick panel on the passenger side and make sure the PA sensor is connected - it has a red/white wire to the ECU - they rarely, if ever, go bad

 

I looked at it... It has the red/wite, green/wite and yellow/wite wires coming from it... And the only wires that arent conected are the Red and Yellow wires that went to the A plug that everyone told me to cut when I was doing the wiring.

 

Hey man, you think you post a daigram of how the vacume lines go? Im not sure I got them right.

 

Bump

 

hhmm.. there might be a short in your harness.. double check your wiring

 

Checked the harness... Problem does not apear to be there...

 

visit honda.co.uk/owner/crxmanual/
its a full manual on the crx it has everything you ever wanted to know

 

A usefull link! Thanks!