Well I broke the head off the bolt while trying to remove it. I guess the bolt was so rusted up that it just snapped. It's the bolt that holds the bottom of the strut. I can see the head turning, but not the rest of the bolt on the other side.

Seems like I'm really screwed right now. Who can get this out for me? Is it an easy process? How much you think it's gonna cost?

 

drill a hole in it, then use a bolt/screw remover (basically a reverse threaded screw) Or drill a small hole through it, then increase the drill bit size untill the bolt falls apart....

 

easiest way?
new lca , new bolt

you can try this...but its not guaranteed
use a tool called " easy out"
if that works your in luck....all u need is a new bolt
I'd also torch it and soak it in pb blaster before trying this

is it the front or the back??

 

Good idea.... Do you think the bolt will actually just fall apart though? It's a pretty big bolt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">easiest way?
new lca , new bolt

you can try this...but its not guaranteed
use a tool called " easy out"
if that works your in luck....all u need is a new bolt
I'd also torch it and soak it in pb blaster before trying this

is it the front or the back??</TD></TR></TABLE>

What exactly does the "easy out" do? It's in the rear BTW.

 

screw extractor from craftsman



removes any bolt, screw or threaded part

 

that thing also looks like it can remove the threads!

 

well, the point is to get one thats not bigger than the size of the bolt...

 

yeah...you just drill a hole in the bolt, then put this in the drill and drill it in counter-clockwise. As the bit goes in (like a reverse screw) it tightens and starts to turn the bolt counter-clockwise as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bryan305 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah...you just drill a hole in the bolt, then put this in the drill and drill it in counter-clockwise. As the bit goes in (like a reverse screw) it tightens and starts to turn the bolt counter-clockwise as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This only works when the bolt Isn't frozen in the threads If you put enough torque on that bolt to snap it and didn't manage to budge the other half of the bolt, then I'd doubt an EZ out will work. Worth a shot though. Just the thought of it being "EZ" is a crock of ****. I smack fools who utter that four letter word in my garage

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd also torch it and soak it in pb blaster before trying this

</TD></TR></TABLE>

pb blaster...yes...oh yes

 

another way is to have a welder tap on to it with a peice of flat bar and then put a wrench on it. this is what i do if the "EZ" out doesn't work.

 

cant you just cut the head off and pound it out with a punch. its not threaded into the LCA for the strut, there is a nut on the other side.

it has like a spline on the shaft of the bolt.

I really think that if you remove the head you can just punch it out with a mallet and a drift punch.

also is it possible that you just see the nut being stationary and the bolt unthreading from it?

this bolt ususally required a wrench on the nut and a wrench on the bolt. unless this is a different setup than the R

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by twuelfing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cant you just cut the head off and pound it out with a punch. its not threaded into the LCA for the strut, there is a nut on the other side.

it has like a spline on the shaft of the bolt.

I really think that if you remove the head you can just punch it out with a mallet and a drift punch.

also is it possible that you just see the nut being stationary and the bolt unthreading from it?

this bolt ususally required a wrench on the nut and a wrench on the bolt. unless this is a different setup than the R</TD></TR></TABLE>

obviously you haven't done this before

short answer is no

its a major PITA

 

with integra/civic rear lower control arms
the shock as a welded nut that the bolt threads to
most of the time...its not even siezed in the nut....usually its siezed in the lca bushing

now with the itr rear lca the threaded nut is on the lca itself
now i don't have experiece with itr lca
so i'm not sure if the bolt siezes in the shock bushing
but if its just siezed in the threaded bolt....than thats usually easier to take out than siezed in the bushing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bryan305 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">screw extractor from craftsman



removes any bolt, screw or threaded part</TD></TR></TABLE>


DO NOT BUY THESE FROM SEARS they will break! i am big on craftsman, but not the bolt extractors. they just are pure junk, plain and simple. here is one place you should spend a few extra $ on snap on.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=567450

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rodney &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


DO NOT BUY THESE FROM SEARS they will break! i am big on craftsman, but not the bolt extractors. they just are pure junk, plain and simple. here is one place you should spend a few extra $ on snap on. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldn't know...so far I've gotten lucky and haven't had to deal with broken bolts/studs.

 

god damn this has to be the worst PITA problem ever if you dont have the proper tools. I broke both of mine off on my Del Sol rear LCAs, the bolt was seized to the LCA bushing. We tried many things but ended up having to just destroy the bushing to get it out and then just replace the bushing and bolt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20bastard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=567450</TD></TR></TABLE>


yes, this tool from sears is much better, but still not as strong as the snap on piece.

whatever you do, do not buy the screw looking one. they suck beyond belief!

 

i'd suggest snap-on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all stock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">obviously you haven't done this before</TD></TR></TABLE>

well if its the front LCA then it most definatly has a bolt AND a nut. This would explain it just spinning and the head not actually coming off.

i have done this before.

Please post if it is the front or the rear LCA.

If its the rear just drill out the bolt where it goes into the nut. Or cut the nut off and have a new one welded on.

 

I snapped both bolts at the lca's on my car. I just removed the nut (broke the weld) and tapped the bolt through the bushing with a punch. Easy as pie.

 

The hot tip for removing broken bolts is the combo of a LEFT HAND DRILL BIT and an Easy Out/Screw Extractor. The left hand or reverse bit will usually unscrew the broken piece of bolt when you drill the hole for the easy out. If not, use the easy out. Throw some penetrant on there too.

Batoutahell's tip for the lca's sounds like a good one too.

 

I ate cookies for breakfast.

It is having a common probrems in this car. The easiest way to fix you probrem is to remove the Lower arm and reprace it. If you are low on a maney then you cn onry changing a bush. it is not wurth the heart ache to making a cutting out of a bolt. you can gett a new bush cheapry.