Here is a little write up on how to remove the ever-so-common broken exhaust manifold stud.

***DISCLAIMER***
The work and procedures shown and described in these world-wide web files are intended for use by people having average skill and knowledge of the subjects. Caution: If you are inexperienced in using any of the tools or equipment depicted or any of the procedures described, or are in doubt that the work and procedures shown and described may not be safe in your chosen situation, consult a person skilled in the performance of the work or procedure. Throughout this information there are specific safety recommendations given, please pay careful attention to each of these. The creator of the information in these files disclaim any liability for injury or damage arising out of any failure or omission to perform the work or procedure shown and described. The creator of the information in these files disclaim any liability for injury or damage arising out of any unsuccesful or successful attempt to perform any of the modifications or "DIY" projects and tasks outlined within this thread.


Tools needed:

Safety glasses
Liquid penetrating oil
Center punch
Drill with 1/8" bit
No.1 screw extractor - $2.99 at Sears
Hammer
Vicegrips

Now that that is over with let's get started!

Here is a pic of the broken stud.



1. Remove the exhaust manifold and soak the broken stud with liquid penetrant.

2. Use a center punch and tap a pilot hole in the broken stud.



3. Drill a 1/8" hole in the stud. Take your time and don't push too hard. Be sure to use a liquid penetrant as lubricant so the drill bit will not overheat.



4. Tap in the screw extractor with a hammer. Make sure it is snug.






5. Unscrew the broken stud with a pair of vicegrips attached to the extractor. Use lubricant if needed. Here's a pic of the broken stud removed.





I hope this helps. PM me with any questions. For high-res pics go here: http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289635573


FYI- I found out that the D series studs are the same as the B series.


Modified by dwnthehatch at 8:48 AM 1/13/2004

 

Nice write up! I did the same thing on my integra like 2 weeks ago!

 

And as always read the helms so you don't over tq .......


J/K good write up.

 

LMAO, where was this when i needed it yesterday...

I broke an extractor because im wetarded.

 

Man from what I'm hearing moe could have used this two minutes ago. Oh well lesson learned never listen to me moe. Nice write up.

 

No this happend yesterday, around this time. Just shut your hole hybridizer...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpooN Man &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And as always read the helms so you don't over tq .......


J/K good write up. </TD></TR></TABLE>


YEs.. agreed!!!! I over tqed a bolt when putting the cam back on one day.. fun stuff to get out

 

good write, something for the favorites folder for future use, (hopefully won't have to do it)

 

Very good write-up! I'm glad I could help arsenaldregster. Also, this is good for the screws that hold the rotors on the hubs in hondas, and if you ever broke a short shifter and the broken part is inside the shift **** this is what you need.

 

nice write up any ideas if this works on the rear LCA bolt this is the second time ive broken it dammit

 

I'm sure it can, just buy a bigger size and drill a bigger hole. Use penetrating oil. WD40 is not a good penetrating oil, everyone just thinks it is for some odd reason.

 

GREAT, i just did this on my 95 gsr, i snap the stud like 2 months ago and i really need to get it fixed. finaly i got new bolts for it so i decided to do it.

i bought a 90 angle drill &lt;--- only one that would fit btween radiator and motor
i used some cobalt drill bits. broke 2 while i was doing it. i didnt use oil at all. it took me about 2 or 3 hours to drill all the way threw. i kinda make the hole to big at first and hade to drill all the way threw the bolt. once i did that it was easy, smack the extractor in and back it out.

thanks guys the shop wanted 100$ to do this

 

and if you need the helms look in sig.

 

Great write up!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88hf &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and if you need the helms look in sig.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

dont get me wrong im all for free stuff, but those online helms suck. there not bookmarked and it takes hours to find the page your looking for

 

good shiet

 

w00t w00t. Nice DIY.

 

damn i got those same craftsman extractors now i kno how to use them hahahah

 

ya i wint to sears to get 1 of them, and the guy sold me a wood screw extractor, i took it home snaped it 2 min later and headed back to sears for the right 1

 

Nice write up man.

 

Good stuff,

I had the same problem, and was thinking of drilling it out and then retapping it. But it ended up my mechanic messed up the original point of drilling and I had to take off the entire head and get it retapped by a (cylinder head) machine shop. Cost $25 bucks and having my car not running for 4 days.

 

But remeber it could always have been worse it could have costed 3k and have had your car not running for 5 months like mine has been so just look at it all relitivly.

 

I love reading these writeups keep em coming

 

anyone know the part number for the stud?

 

GOOD **** DUDE