i need to know how to get the tie rod off the strut w/out damaging it. any suggestions?? nathan

 

just take take off the nut ....and hit the strut from the side *where the ball joint is*with a 5lb sledge ..it should break the tie rod end free in one or two good wacks

 

you could go buy tie rod seperator at auto parts store..
i torned up my tie rod boot, only $3 to replace them so no biggie.

 

"Just beat it." Micheal Jackson

Becareful about hitting the strut. If you get too crazy you can hit the threads on the tie rod end and the nut will not go on fully. I leave the nut on partially to protect the threads. Good luck!

 

...do it right and rent a tie-rod tool from Autozone/Advance Auto. It's basically free to use once you bring the tool back (they refund you the rental fee). It makes the job so much easier. Why wack it with a hammer if the tool is readily available

 

Because when your flat rate at a dealership, there's the right way to do things and there's the way that is going to save you time and effort. For example, I'm not going to put lug nuts on a wheel hand tight, put the car down off the lift and break out my torque wrench set to 80 ft/lbs. Not trying to be smart, just practical. Seriously it takes two good <U>careful</U> wacks and you can lift them babies right out. I've done so many blown struts on '01-up civics I'm ready to puke. Just my side of the story. No offence. Everyones different .

 

On my EP the passenger side was a pain to separate but was simple on the drivers side. I eventually had to borrow the tool from a buddy down the street at 12am.

Get the tool, you wont regret it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NuG EP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On my EP the passenger side was a pain to separate but was simple on the drivers side. </TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL... EXACTLY! I had this issue with an EP and a RSX when installing Mugen Sport Suspensions. It just took more time.

-Victor

 

Get a tie rod separator and just dont work it up and down fit it in and just hit it with a hammer till it pops. I tore civicvtec1ps's boot by not hitting the tool in far enough. I went to the other side and just let the tool to the work and it came off like a charm. Paid like 13-15 bucks for the tool at sears.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mad02Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get a tie rod separator and just dont work it up and down fit it in and just hit it with a hammer till it pops. I tore civicvtec1ps's boot by not hitting the tool in far enough. I went to the other side and just let the tool to the work and it came off like a charm. Paid like 13-15 bucks for the tool at sears.</TD></TR></TABLE>What Sears part # is it for the tool?

 

i am helping a friend out with his rsx. he bought tanabe sustec coilovers. i wish i read this thread before we started. i busted one of the tie-rod boot. we got the suspension in but trying to tighten the tie-rod the nut will just turn with the bolt. how do i eliminate this problem?

 

Here is the bad thing about taking the lazy way out and bangint the tie rod out with a hammer. You can actually flaten the threads if you hit it causing the bolt to not spin back on.

Stop being lazy and get a tie rod puller. It looks like a tuning fork. You slide it between the boot and toe rod and take a hammer and hit it a few times to make sure it is in. Then just pull and down till it pops out.

If you bust the boot the grease will leak out. After a while dirt and sand will get into the tie rod and will eventually thrash the bearing inside.

As for what to do when the tie rod is thrashed and the nut turns with the bolt, get a pair of pliers and try and hold it still while you get the nut on there, but chances are you just messed the tie rod end up and will need a new one.

Cost around 40-45 bucks for the compete assemblede ( tie rod end, boot, and grease).

Good luck.

 

damn it...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by f1nal zeros &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is the bad thing about taking the lazy way out and bangint the tie rod out with a hammer. You can actually flaten the threads if you hit it causing the bolt to not spin back on.

Stop being lazy and get a tie rod puller. It looks like a tuning fork. You slide it between the boot and toe rod and take a hammer and hit it a few times to make sure it is in. Then just pull and down till it pops out.

If you bust the boot the grease will leak out. After a while dirt and sand will get into the tie rod and will eventually thrash the bearing inside.

As for what to do when the tie rod is thrashed and the nut turns with the bolt, get a pair of pliers and try and hold it still while you get the nut on there, but chances are you just messed the tie rod end up and will need a new one.

Cost around 40-45 bucks for the compete assemblede ( tie rod end, boot, and grease).

Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Heres a couple ways around that..

Hit the actual arm upward, now obviously if it doesnt come off with an easy wack dont start to whale on it.

Spin the nut onto the tie rod and hit the nut so you dont peen over the threads.

Hit the spindle or the area around the tie rod ( best method) within 2-3 whacks its off and you can just pull it out.