clutch / flywheel chaning tips and advice
ok pulled my stock flywheel off and it weighs about 15.8 lbs
the ACT one i replaced it with weighs 12.12
my throw out bearing had play in it and you could clearly hear the ***** rattling inside it.
also there was a burnt ring on the inside half of the friction disk on the pressure plate side.
my car was at about 52,500 when this was done just incase anyone cares.
i cant tell the difference between the 12 and 16 lb flywheels, which is what i wanted.
i learned several lessons the hard way while doing this job
1. Go buy new castle nuts for your lower control arms before you start. They are 12mmx1.25 Honda has them I paid about 4 bucks each. The studs are mostly exposed and rust up pretty bad
2. Be careful when reinstalling the rear motor mount bolts. I messed up the lower bolts threads in the block and now I have purchased a thread repair kit for 100 bucks to prevent this problem in the future.
3. Order new drive shaft seals before you start. I tore one and now I had to wait 3 days to get it and seal the leak back up.
4. I had a half shaft get stuck in the hub on the driver side and broke a 3 jaw puller trying to get it loose. We solved this one by placing a puller on the hub behind the brake disk (which must be removed). We then tightened the puller up and hit it pretty good several times with a hammer on the center post. Then we tightened it up a bit and repeated until the axle was out.
5. The pin in the shift linkage would not come out so we removed it at the shifter side. However we didnテδづつ稚 make sure it was in the correct location before bolting the transmission back up so we had to remove the shifter to accomplish this. This wasted much time. To prevent this just put the rod back in the correct place before replacing the transmission.
6. I would highly recommend getting a thread repair kit if your going to work on cars or at least have access to a 12 x 1.25 tap and die for the lower control arm ball joint studs and a 14x1.5 tap to clean up motor mount threads in the block. If I had those I wouldnテδづつ稚 still be finishing up my clutch install
7. Go get the crank shaft locking wrench. The one we used was about 60 bucks.
All the odd tools I have mention will probably cost you 100-200 bucks depending on brand and such, but I promise you will use them more than once and it will save you time to just have the correct tools. If you buy them before you wonテδづつ稚 have to wait for them when you need them.
Also the parts I recommend may or may not be necessary, but whatテδづつ痴 20 or 30 bucks to not have to go out and get them or wait for them to get ordered.
if you want links or part numbers let me know i can dig them up.
the ACT one i replaced it with weighs 12.12
my throw out bearing had play in it and you could clearly hear the ***** rattling inside it.
also there was a burnt ring on the inside half of the friction disk on the pressure plate side.
my car was at about 52,500 when this was done just incase anyone cares.
i cant tell the difference between the 12 and 16 lb flywheels, which is what i wanted.
i learned several lessons the hard way while doing this job
1. Go buy new castle nuts for your lower control arms before you start. They are 12mmx1.25 Honda has them I paid about 4 bucks each. The studs are mostly exposed and rust up pretty bad
2. Be careful when reinstalling the rear motor mount bolts. I messed up the lower bolts threads in the block and now I have purchased a thread repair kit for 100 bucks to prevent this problem in the future.
3. Order new drive shaft seals before you start. I tore one and now I had to wait 3 days to get it and seal the leak back up.
4. I had a half shaft get stuck in the hub on the driver side and broke a 3 jaw puller trying to get it loose. We solved this one by placing a puller on the hub behind the brake disk (which must be removed). We then tightened the puller up and hit it pretty good several times with a hammer on the center post. Then we tightened it up a bit and repeated until the axle was out.
5. The pin in the shift linkage would not come out so we removed it at the shifter side. However we didnテδづつ稚 make sure it was in the correct location before bolting the transmission back up so we had to remove the shifter to accomplish this. This wasted much time. To prevent this just put the rod back in the correct place before replacing the transmission.
6. I would highly recommend getting a thread repair kit if your going to work on cars or at least have access to a 12 x 1.25 tap and die for the lower control arm ball joint studs and a 14x1.5 tap to clean up motor mount threads in the block. If I had those I wouldnテδづつ稚 still be finishing up my clutch install
7. Go get the crank shaft locking wrench. The one we used was about 60 bucks.
All the odd tools I have mention will probably cost you 100-200 bucks depending on brand and such, but I promise you will use them more than once and it will save you time to just have the correct tools. If you buy them before you wonテδづつ稚 have to wait for them when you need them.
Also the parts I recommend may or may not be necessary, but whatテδづつ痴 20 or 30 bucks to not have to go out and get them or wait for them to get ordered.
if you want links or part numbers let me know i can dig them up.
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baphomet
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Jan 6, 2004 12:13 PM



