Badass all motor setup
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From: Denton, Maryland, U.S.
Badass all motor setup
Actually, I came up with this on my own and it is just the block and head. I came up with this setup with reliability, driveability and power in mind.
JDM B16A swap from 90-91 Integra XSi ( I own a 1990 DA). Put in B17A crank and rods along with a closed deck design set of sleeves. Bore would be 84mm with forged pistons. Use the B16A head extrude honed, stainless steel valves, skunk2 valve springs and skunk stage 2 cams. This would give me:
Compression ratio of: 11.0:1
R/S ratio of: 1.62:1
Displacement of: 1804cc
81.4mm stroke and 84mm bore = oversquare motor
ss valves and valve spring setup would help reduce the risk of valve-float
retaining the VTEC block would help retain reliability because of the oil squirters
So, what do you all think? Your input would be greatly appreciated.
JDM B16A swap from 90-91 Integra XSi ( I own a 1990 DA). Put in B17A crank and rods along with a closed deck design set of sleeves. Bore would be 84mm with forged pistons. Use the B16A head extrude honed, stainless steel valves, skunk2 valve springs and skunk stage 2 cams. This would give me:
Compression ratio of: 11.0:1
R/S ratio of: 1.62:1
Displacement of: 1804cc
81.4mm stroke and 84mm bore = oversquare motor
ss valves and valve spring setup would help reduce the risk of valve-float
retaining the VTEC block would help retain reliability because of the oil squirters
So, what do you all think? Your input would be greatly appreciated.
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Re: Badass all motor setup (Spoonin)
ls or b18c block sleeved, and bored to 85 mm. knifed edged crank, forged rods and pistons, running 13.0:1 CR or so, complete toda top end with C's, LDL Speed Shop ported head and manifold, a DTR header. jus my 2 cents
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From: Boise, ID
Re: (Mr Milano)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is up with the lightened and knifeeding? If you two can tell me why you would ever do anything but balence the factory crank I would be surprised.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol.... w0rd!
want a "bad ***" setup? contact the top pro drivers in drag/track racing and combine the setups... or take a car that weighs 1800lbs and put a 300whp motor in it with about 170 wtq...
lol.... w0rd!
want a "bad ***" setup? contact the top pro drivers in drag/track racing and combine the setups... or take a car that weighs 1800lbs and put a 300whp motor in it with about 170 wtq...
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From: Wayland, MI, US
Re: Badass all motor setup (Spoonin)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoonin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, I came up with this on my own and it is just the block and head. I came up with this setup with reliability, driveability and power in mind.
JDM B16A swap from 90-91 Integra XSi ( I own a 1990 DA). Put in B17A crank and rods along with a closed deck design set of sleeves. Bore would be 84mm with forged pistons. Use the B16A head extrude honed, stainless steel valves, skunk2 valve springs and skunk stage 2 cams. This would give me:
Compression ratio of: 11.0:1
R/S ratio of: 1.62:1
Displacement of: 1804cc
81.4mm stroke and 84mm bore = oversquare motor
ss valves and valve spring setup would help reduce the risk of valve-float
retaining the VTEC block would help retain reliability because of the oil squirters
So, what do you all think? Your input would be greatly appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why stop at 84mm on the bore? Go to 85 or 86mm and forged pistons. There is an interesting article on this at:
http://www.hstuners.com/news/wmprint.php?ArtID=33
JDM B16A swap from 90-91 Integra XSi ( I own a 1990 DA). Put in B17A crank and rods along with a closed deck design set of sleeves. Bore would be 84mm with forged pistons. Use the B16A head extrude honed, stainless steel valves, skunk2 valve springs and skunk stage 2 cams. This would give me:
Compression ratio of: 11.0:1
R/S ratio of: 1.62:1
Displacement of: 1804cc
81.4mm stroke and 84mm bore = oversquare motor
ss valves and valve spring setup would help reduce the risk of valve-float
retaining the VTEC block would help retain reliability because of the oil squirters
So, what do you all think? Your input would be greatly appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Why stop at 84mm on the bore? Go to 85 or 86mm and forged pistons. There is an interesting article on this at:
http://www.hstuners.com/news/wmprint.php?ArtID=33
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From: Woodbridge, NJ, Middlesex
Re: Badass all motor setup (Spoonin)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoonin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, I came up with this on my own and it is just the block and head. I came up with this setup with reliability, driveability and power in mind.
JDM B16A swap from 90-91 Integra XSi ( I own a 1990 DA). Put in B17A crank and rods along with a closed deck design set of sleeves. Bore would be 84mm with forged pistons. Use the B16A head extrude honed, stainless steel valves, skunk2 valve springs and skunk stage 2 cams. This would give me:
Compression ratio of: 11.0:1
R/S ratio of: 1.62:1
Displacement of: 1804cc
81.4mm stroke and 84mm bore = oversquare motor
ss valves and valve spring setup would help reduce the risk of valve-float
retaining the VTEC block would help retain reliability because of the oil squirters
So, what do you all think? Your input would be greatly appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
go a bit higher in compression, even for 91 octane
Greg
JDM B16A swap from 90-91 Integra XSi ( I own a 1990 DA). Put in B17A crank and rods along with a closed deck design set of sleeves. Bore would be 84mm with forged pistons. Use the B16A head extrude honed, stainless steel valves, skunk2 valve springs and skunk stage 2 cams. This would give me:
Compression ratio of: 11.0:1
R/S ratio of: 1.62:1
Displacement of: 1804cc
81.4mm stroke and 84mm bore = oversquare motor
ss valves and valve spring setup would help reduce the risk of valve-float
retaining the VTEC block would help retain reliability because of the oil squirters
So, what do you all think? Your input would be greatly appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
go a bit higher in compression, even for 91 octane
Greg
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From: Miami, FL
Re: Badass all motor setup (CHEETAH)
I dont know why anyone would want to use a b16 block and b17 crank with 84mm bore?? Why limit your displacement by using that block and crank. Who cares about oversquared and undersquared motors or rod stroke ratio..
Ls block, 85-86mm sleeved, 12.0:1+ cr, 89mm ls crank..displacement is good, compression is good.
Ls block, 85-86mm sleeved, 12.0:1+ cr, 89mm ls crank..displacement is good, compression is good.
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Re: Badass all motor setup (MaxBoost)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaxBoost »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont know why anyone would want to use a b16 block and b17 crank with 84mm bore?? Why limit your displacement by using that block and crank. Who cares about oversquared and undersquared motors or rod stroke ratio..
Ls block, 85-86mm sleeved, 12.0:1+ cr, 89mm ls crank..displacement is good, compression is good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My thoughts exactly. No one here does anything where they need to worry about R/S ratio and over sqaure or square motors. 95% of the people in the All Motor forum and are about Drag and getting the most HP and TQ they can. For this set-up no replacement....
Even if you have a B16A by the time you find a B17 crank and even one for a decent price, you could have spent the same, maybe less money on an LS block and be builiding it already.
Ls block, 85-86mm sleeved, 12.0:1+ cr, 89mm ls crank..displacement is good, compression is good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My thoughts exactly. No one here does anything where they need to worry about R/S ratio and over sqaure or square motors. 95% of the people in the All Motor forum and are about Drag and getting the most HP and TQ they can. For this set-up no replacement....
Even if you have a B16A by the time you find a B17 crank and even one for a decent price, you could have spent the same, maybe less money on an LS block and be builiding it already.
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Re: (Mr Milano)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is up with the lightened and knifeeding? If you two can tell me why you would ever do anything but balence the factory crank I would be surprised.</TD></TR></TABLE>
maybe cause the new forged pistons and rods are heavier than stock. so knifedging the crank well, lightens the rotating mass a little. but balancing the crank along with other parts of the rotating mass is important
maybe cause the new forged pistons and rods are heavier than stock. so knifedging the crank well, lightens the rotating mass a little. but balancing the crank along with other parts of the rotating mass is important
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From: Wayland, MI, US
Re: Badass all motor setup (Mr Milano)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My thoughts exactly. No one here does anything where they need to worry about R/S ratio and over sqaure or square motors. 95% of the people in the All Motor forum and are about Drag and getting the most HP and TQ they can. For this set-up no replacement....
Even if you have a B16A by the time you find a B17 crank and even one for a decent price, you could have spent the same, maybe less money on an LS block and be builiding it already.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I disagree and would prefer a built B17 to a built B18a/b for NA applications. A buildup for boost is another matter entirely. BTW there's a B17 for sale in the classified section for $375 or so. They may be somewhat easier to find than you may think.
My thoughts exactly. No one here does anything where they need to worry about R/S ratio and over sqaure or square motors. 95% of the people in the All Motor forum and are about Drag and getting the most HP and TQ they can. For this set-up no replacement....
Even if you have a B16A by the time you find a B17 crank and even one for a decent price, you could have spent the same, maybe less money on an LS block and be builiding it already.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I disagree and would prefer a built B17 to a built B18a/b for NA applications. A buildup for boost is another matter entirely. BTW there's a B17 for sale in the classified section for $375 or so. They may be somewhat easier to find than you may think.
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Re: (sleeepy808)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleeepy808 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
maybe cause the new forged pistons and rods are heavier than stock. so knifedging the crank well, lightens the rotating mass a little. but balancing the crank along with other parts of the rotating mass is important</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hahaha.
You ever compare the two? Try again.
maybe cause the new forged pistons and rods are heavier than stock. so knifedging the crank well, lightens the rotating mass a little. but balancing the crank along with other parts of the rotating mass is important</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hahaha.
You ever compare the two? Try again.
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Re: Badass all motor setup (TimoneX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TimoneX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I disagree and would prefer a built B17 to a built B18a/b for NA applications. A buildup for boost is another matter entirely. BTW there's a B17 for sale in the classified section for $375 or so. They may be somewhat easier to find than you may think.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hate to say it, but you'll just be behind the pack. There's nothing wrong with the B17 build, you'll just make more with an LS/VTEC. but who wants extra power?
I disagree and would prefer a built B17 to a built B18a/b for NA applications. A buildup for boost is another matter entirely. BTW there's a B17 for sale in the classified section for $375 or so. They may be somewhat easier to find than you may think.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I hate to say it, but you'll just be behind the pack. There's nothing wrong with the B17 build, you'll just make more with an LS/VTEC.
but who wants extra power?
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From: Wayland, MI, US
Re: Badass all motor setup (Mr Milano)
Extra power is kewl. I just don't like frankenmotors. I do like high revving reliable motors like the B17. I think it's a fine motor with plenty of potential, though less than a B18c.
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From: kitchener, ontario, Canada
Re: (infinatenexus)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by infinatenexus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">H-22 bored and stroked to 2.4
Sleeved
Forged pistons/rods
knife edged and lightened crank
Stage 3 cams
in a gutted CRX
14-1 compression
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've got that same setup done for my 93 hb, just need to finish paying it off then I'm set to go...i might have it in, in about 2 weeks.
Sleeved
Forged pistons/rods
knife edged and lightened crank
Stage 3 cams
in a gutted CRX
14-1 compression
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've got that same setup done for my 93 hb, just need to finish paying it off then I'm set to go...i might have it in, in about 2 weeks.
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From: Tallahassee, Fla, United states of America
Re: (Mr Milano)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is up with the lightened and knifeeding? If you two can tell me why you would ever do anything but balence the factory crank I would be surprised.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Knife edging helps your crank cut through the oli fog in the crankcase.
Polishing the crank helps it sheed oil faster
Lightening the crank helps you rev faster
Knife edging helps your crank cut through the oli fog in the crankcase.
Polishing the crank helps it sheed oil faster
Lightening the crank helps you rev faster
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From: Gallatin, TN, America
here is your bad *** motor gsr block sleeved 84.5 bore 89 mm stroke forged pistons and rods,ported b16 head and type-r manifold,skunk2 stage2 cams and anr header,440 rc injectors,65mm throttle,hondata tuning,12.8compression.258whp 158flbs in a 90 crx hf has been7.62 94 in the 1/8 and has been11.88 at 116 in the 1/4 on slicks. This is a all motor street car. There is your bad *** motor want to buy one?
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From: Wayland, MI, US
Re: (Camoef9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Camoef9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> That set up will be slower with a knife edged crank. The reason honda stopped making b17 is because it is a tourqeless wonder, a knife crank would give it less.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Makes more torque than a B16. Please make sense.
Makes more torque than a B16. Please make sense.
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Re: (Mr Milano)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hahaha. You ever compare the two? Try again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
well i seem to be doing jus fine with them. now i admit i am not an expert at engine building. no where near. i am always open to learn new things. so enlighten me
Hahaha.
You ever compare the two? Try again.</TD></TR></TABLE>well i seem to be doing jus fine with them. now i admit i am not an expert at engine building. no where near. i am always open to learn new things. so enlighten me
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From: Southern California, U.S.A.
Re: Badass all motor setup (Spoonin)
You want badass?
87mm bore X 89mm stroke (LS crank). 14:1 pistons.Skunk2 Stage 3's, Toda 'C'S or 'D's, Jun 4's or EF-1 M24's. HyTech,HeaderTech, or AN-R side exit header. Portflow or Alaniz head. Hondata, AEM EMS, MOTEC or similar. In a 1700 lb. car.
Modified by b19coupe at 8:38 AM 9/30/2003
87mm bore X 89mm stroke (LS crank). 14:1 pistons.Skunk2 Stage 3's, Toda 'C'S or 'D's, Jun 4's or EF-1 M24's. HyTech,HeaderTech, or AN-R side exit header. Portflow or Alaniz head. Hondata, AEM EMS, MOTEC or similar. In a 1700 lb. car.
Modified by b19coupe at 8:38 AM 9/30/2003
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From: Tallahassee, Fla, United states of America
Re: (Camoef9)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Camoef9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> That set up will be slower with a knife edged crank. The reason honda stopped making b17 is because it is a tourqeless wonder, a knife crank would give it less.</TD></TR></TABLE>
A knife-edged crank makes you slower how?
A knife-edged crank makes you slower how?
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Re: Badass all motor setup (b19coupe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You want badass?
87mm bore X 89mm stroke (LS crank). 14:1 pistons.Skunk2 Stage 3's, Toda 'C'S or 'D's, Jun 4's or EF-1 M24's. Portflow or Alaniz head. Hondata, AEM EMS, MOTEC or similar. In a 1700 lb. car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What no 95mm crank and deckplate? No 305/12mm 305/11.5mm VTEC killers? No 16+:1 compressioln, Hytech/SMSP/DTR/AN-R/Header Tech side exit? Why not make it a full tube chassis 1500lb car?
Just givin ya ****.
87mm bore X 89mm stroke (LS crank). 14:1 pistons.Skunk2 Stage 3's, Toda 'C'S or 'D's, Jun 4's or EF-1 M24's. Portflow or Alaniz head. Hondata, AEM EMS, MOTEC or similar. In a 1700 lb. car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What no 95mm crank and deckplate? No 305/12mm 305/11.5mm VTEC killers? No 16+:1 compressioln, Hytech/SMSP/DTR/AN-R/Header Tech side exit? Why not make it a full tube chassis 1500lb car?
Just givin ya ****.
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From: Southern California, U.S.A.
Re: Badass all motor setup (Mr Milano)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What no 95mm crank and deckplate? No 305/12mm 305/11.5mm VTEC killers? No 16+:1 compressioln, Hytech/SMSP/DTR/AN-R/Header Tech side exit? Why not make it a full tube chassis 1500lb car? Just givin ya ****.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoonin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, I came up with this on my own and it is just the block and head. I came up with this setup with reliability, driveability and power in mind.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just tryin' to sort of keep within the original poster's parameters.
What no 95mm crank and deckplate? No 305/12mm 305/11.5mm VTEC killers? No 16+:1 compressioln, Hytech/SMSP/DTR/AN-R/Header Tech side exit? Why not make it a full tube chassis 1500lb car?
Just givin ya ****.</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Spoonin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, I came up with this on my own and it is just the block and head. I came up with this setup with reliability, driveability and power in mind.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Just tryin' to sort of keep within the original poster's parameters.