My friend has a 99 prelude with a rev hard turbo kit. We would like to know what should the settings be with a aftermarket crankshaft(unorhtodox) and cam gears(AEM)? Also, would it be good to upgrade the fuel pump? Is it necessary to run the FMU that came with the kit or is there a way we could go without? Any help would be appreciated, Thanks!!!

 

Now we have encountered another problem......The car would start up but it will bog and then die out? what could be the problem?

 

running rich?

 

Yes you must run the fmu that the kit came with. If you get a standalone, then you will not need to run the fmu. Otherwise boost without it and you'll be buying a new motor.

Also, what type of settings are you looking for? Leave the cam gears at 0-0 until you take it to the dyno to have it tuned. Get a walbro 255 intank fuel pump.

 

OK, regarding the FMU, we heard that if the car is running a FPR it is not necessary to run the unit. When we took the car for a test run it ran ok but alot of smoke came out of the exhaust. After that, the car would start up, bog, then die out. In order to keep the car running, we would have to hold the gas pedal. As far as the settings we'll leave at 0-0 and take it to the dyno. We thought that there was a certain setting that deals with installing a turbo. Thanks for all the help!!!

 

out of curiosity, what color was the smoke?

 

The FMU is a is a boost dependent fuel pressure regulator. Your adjustable FPR is not. It does not control fuel pressure until the engine manifold pressure comes under boost, the fpr does not. As the manifold pressure increases, a pressure line from the manifold to the FMU causes the FMU to increase the fuel injector rail pressure. The increased fuel pressure causes the injectors to deliver more fuel to the engine.

If you run your motor under boost without the increased fuel delivery it needs, then you will most likely detonate and blow your motor. What color smoke did you guys blow out?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GudeH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The FMU is a is a boost dependent fuel pressure regulator. Your adjustable FPR is not. It does not control fuel pressure until the engine manifold pressure comes under boost, the fpr does not. As the manifold pressure increases, a pressure line from the manifold to the FMU causes the FMU to increase the fuel injector rail pressure. The increased fuel pressure causes the injectors to deliver more fuel to the engine.

If you run your motor under boost without the increased fuel delivery it needs, then you will most likely detonate and blow your motor. What color smoke did you guys blow out?</TD></TR></TABLE>


sounds to me like they already did it....do a compression check and let us know

 

the color is white smoke....

 

How much white smoke are we talking about here? I highly recommend a cylinder leakdown test... forget a shitty compression test... those never work for me.

Not to sound like a ******** or anything, but when you buy a turbo kit it comes with specific components for a reason. Why do people always half *** things the first time?

 

this "domestic " guy came by the shop and looked at the project and stated that it wasnt necessary to run the FMU because of the AEM FPR. my friend was new with the turbo ordeal that he believed him and went without it. as far as the smoke goes, it blows out alot. 3-4 feet back from the exhaust and thick.

 

I'd say the motor is toast with that much smoke, you should have checked with us before removing the FMU....... a leakdown test will prove if its bad thou

good luck!

 

Sorry to sound so harsh but how could you guys listen to someone who just "came by the shop"? And on top of that, you state he is a "domestic" guy. So in mind, I'm thinking he doesn't know **** about boosted Honda's. Or at least you make it sound that way. You probably fried your motor. And as Gudeh23a pointed out, there should have been directions. Didn't you guys see that the FMU was required? And what on earth are you guys doing installing a turbo kit and don't even know the difference between an FMU and FPR? If you weren't sure, you should have asked someone who has worked on or installed a turbo honda.
.....Sorry, I'm having a bad day at work.....I truly feel bad for your friend. He didn't even get a chance to enjoy his car and know he's got to replace his motor.Good luck guys. It wouldn't hurt to do a compression test first and then leakdown if the compression looks ok.

 

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but often a rich-running car that fails to start or maintain ignition is the first sign you snapped your ringlands. I would have the compression checked asap, and if it's bad, check out the thread on running wiseco forged pistons in the stock block. Upgrades, always upgrades.

 

i know.....my friend claimed that his shop of his that he went to understood the concept of installing a turbo. But, i guess not. there were hoses in the wrong places and stuff. this "domestic" person is well known in the local races, but hes an old timer. in my opinion, i thought my friend had the installation process all good and dandy. but when he told me that hes having problems thats when i referred to you guys. it sounds like a majority of you guys are pointing in the same direction. I'll tell him to take a leakdown and compression tests, but what are the figures we should look for?

i know...i know... we are stupid for not refering to you guys in the beginning but if anything, ill let you guys know!!


BTW if this project becomes successful he would be the first turbocharged prelude on the island!!

 

with the compression test, it isn't so much the number as it is the difference in the figures you get. Just post your numbers on here and we'll guide you in the right direction.

 

ok will do....thanks!!

 

Any updates on your friend's motor?

 

My friends car is running good. There were a few vacuum lines that were hooked up wrong and it had a leak in one of his injectors. The car runs fine until today.....again..... We changed out the clutch (ACTXPSS) and flywheel(Fidanza8lbs). Now, my friend is claiming that he cannot hear his blow off valve. Without the aftermarket flywheel, he was able to hear it at around 3-4k, now he cant even hear it at all. Any advice???

 

I'm a little confused about the blow off valve at 3-4k rpms... You should hear the BOV at a certain level of vacuum no matter what the RPM, etc. Did you mean the wastegate?

I have always heard that lighter flywheels will make a turbo spool slower because it's less rotational weight to help keep the motor in motion once it's in motion. I could be that his turbo is just taking longer to spool up, thus the wastegate not opening until after 3-4k rpms. Just a thought...