full comptech intake with icebox
axle back comptech
comptech header

NOW WHAT DO I DO?
i was thinking ctr intake cam or cat or str8 pipe. which is best bang fo rthe buck. I wanna run 13.8 all motor.

 

Search.

 

Ctr cams or stright pipe will not get you to 13.8. You'll need something more aggressive to get you there. Next step motor wise is to get some aftermarket cams. If you are not planning to install new high compression pistons then go with mild cams like Toda B's or Jun's 2. If you are on a budget then go with Compcams or Cranecams. But you'll need a upgrade valvetrain to be safe when running upgraded cams. When you should able get 180whp+ when you get it tuned correctly. That should be enough for high 13's with a good driver and tires.

 

not 13.7 or 13.9?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xkhalil333x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NOW WHAT DO I DO?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Drive it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PyR01-0347 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ctr cams or stright pipe will not get you to 13.8. You'll need something more aggressive to get you there. Next step motor wise is to get some aftermarket cams. If you are not planning to install new high compression pistons then go with mild cams like Toda B's or Jun's 2. If you are on a budget then go with Compcams or Cranecams. But you'll need a upgrade valvetrain to be safe when running upgraded cams. When you should able get 180whp+ when you get it tuned correctly. That should be enough for high 13's with a good driver and tires.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If he leaves near sea level he can EASILY get high 13s out of stock cams. Toda B's LOVE more compression.

I didn't feel like reading the rest of your post..

 

I ran a 50shot on my R for 2 months with just an AEM and comptech header, and was running 13.9's all night...here in florida...was a while ago though... My R is since then dead

 

want to own 1/4 mile... save $$$$ for a turbo kit..

 

burn it to the ground.

 

I gutted my car, took out AC and PS and I run 13.8 @ 100 with I/H/E and VAFC tuning, high 13s are easy w/o opening the motor

 

Drive and enjoy.

If you need to make it faster, then maybe you should have bought a faster car?

 

i live at sea level in florida. I know the car can easily do it without opening up the motor. i think if i add a str8 pipe and a ctr intake cam with good tiresi will hit this. i do not want to open up the motor. any more suggestions thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MackSpeed-616 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">burn it to the ground.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

What year ITR....the 00+'s have the same cams as CTR's so it would be a waste

Get some Toda cam gears, VAFC, FPR, better header with a few items removed 13's should be pretty easy...if not get some drag radials (BFG's )

You might wanna try the new Intake mani as well....$169...jdmhondaparts.com couldnt hurt to dyno and tune it all at once

 

i have a 98 itr

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xkhalil333x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a 98 itr</TD></TR></TABLE>

so what year is your car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MackSpeed-616 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so what year is your car?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I bet it's a 01!

+BITG

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Drive and enjoy.

If you need to make it faster, then maybe you should have bought a faster car?</TD></TR></TABLE>Very True!
Stop beating the hell out of your clutch drag racing, just enjoy the ride!

 

Toda Toda Toda.

 

get rid of the POS restrictive stock cat and bottleneck - 2.5" high flow or a "test" pipe would help... and learn to drive it (practice is very necessary when dragging FF cars)

 

Stock JDM 98 Spec R will run 14.6 all day the best I have seen is a 14.2 with an after market intake. This was STOCK. With some good Tunning there should be NO problem to get into the High 13's without going into the Motor. Also A test pipe is a waste. I would go with a High Flow Cat, Custom B pipe and some Kind of axel back... Take your PICK. As for Intake I think you have it pretty much Covered. If you are going to go into the Engine Make it worth while and save for a bit. I never see the point in going into the Engine UNLESS it needs it and changing it out with Nearly Stock parts. A good Driver and Good Tunning should get you mid to low 14 with your current Setup. Maximize it and go from there.

 

why is a test pipe a waste?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xkhalil333x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why is a test pipe a waste?</TD></TR></TABLE>.

it depends. what year is your car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xkhalil333x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why is a test pipe a waste?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because in my Experience you may gain all of about 3hp over a High Flow Cat. Furthermore it is better for the Environment. Also for what your Goal is you should be able to accomplish your goal and even surpass it without the use of the Test pipe.
If your Car is a TRACK ONLY Car then I say go for it. In my experience it is must better use for TOP END performance.
I have witnessed 12.4 second Cars Using High Flow Cats. 11.1:1 Compression and applicable Cams to work with the Compression.
I think if you had an extra 100 or so bux laying around and you really want to go into the Engine then Up the Compression a Bit 11.5:1 or so and run your Stock or CTR cams and I am sure with good Tunning that you will surpass your goal so long as you can drive.

 

Bang for the buck: new header. Hytech or SMS