heres my setup, just seeing if my setup is worthy of running the O so great 100 shot on my GSR engine. Ive ran what is equililant to a 90shot single fogger, wet on a very similar setup with no problems,,, except i had the nozzle 3 inches from the TB cyls closest to the cam gears lost compression after 4 bottles,, oops

USDM gsr engine with 90k, runs strong,blows no smoke, great compression
N.O.S. pro race DP fogger system 100 shot (wet of course)
FPR set at 60 PSI,, it drops approx 8PSI when i spray, so 52PSI when spraying
window switch setup on the TB, (only sprays at 100% throttle) safety first! yO-!
MSD 6al
MSD blaster2 coil
MSD wires
MSD cap
MSD ignition control,, set at 4* retard off of stock timing when sprayin only
NGK BKR7e-11 plugs
hondata s200 p13 (prelude ECU, i think it will run my car )
stock injectors
VAFC w/ A/f gauge to even finer tune if nessecary
skunk2 mani
jun 4-1 header
greddy catback
aem shorty ram
act 6 puck clutch
ITR LSD
93 octane with 100 oc. mix
Ill be running the stock pump,, which i have before with no problems on a 90 shot wet in a GSR hatch (ek) just keep the fuel pressure high
the car is a 93 civic dx coupe, im contemplating get a BBK fuel pump, but i dont feel like pulling the tank by any means...
***AND FOR THE RECORD.. why is it wrong/bad to spray in first gear???***
With that 90 shot i had, i sprayed every damn time in first with no problems,, just sprayed above 4500 RPM's and it was great.
THANKS TO ALL THAT help me out and not cause a post flaming war because nitrous isnt a form of FI,,, i dont wanna hear about that, just responses to what i posted PLEASE!
-jimbo yO-!

 

my setup is like the middle one, i dont think ill need anything like th 3rd one (bottom) thats for a hella big shot if you ask me, but a very nice setup none the less.

 

I'd go with NX instead. Get a bottle heater and a purge kit. A new fuel pump is a cheap insurance policy.

 

now i see what you mean by having the FPR dedicated to the fuel solenoid, if my A/f meter is showing lean when i spray, i just bump the pressure up and tune by the fuel solenoid FPR, easy enough.

another thing. If i Y it off after the filter and have one FPR for both the fuel solenoid and my fuel rail... then i spray and it shows a lean condition,,, i could as well just bump up the PSI on the FPR, that way it adds more fuel through the jets, and through the injectors,,, ya know? so i think either way is pretty much just personal prefference.
Aside from all the FPR tech,,, does anyone think my setup is worthy and at the same time reliabl enough to spray a 100 shot?
i did a search and found some guys that claimed they've ran a 100shot reliably for a few years on stock internals, some guy even said 125 shot! They all had upgraded ignition and the usual goodies...

 

myself and itr 206 have sprayed big shots on stock internals and had great results...i would def. recommend a bottle heater, its one of the most important things you can have. if your pressure isnt right you wont be going fast, too much fuel not enough juice...get some 24.5's and spray right oput of the hole
your setup looks solid and the extra reg is not neccesary, but cheap insurance...

 

I think it's a good choice that you chose DP over a wet and dry kit. I also agree that the seperate FPR is a nice approach, but not totally neccessary. I think all b-series engines can handle a 100 shot. I plan to do a similiar setup with a NOS DP kit set for a 80 shot on my stock b18b. I'm gonna try to do without an ignition though.

 

if you are worried about pulling the tank on your 93 civic to install a fuel pump. you dont have to worry.

you can pull up the back seat and the fuel pump is right there. its pie.

 

excellent,,
still though, Why is it most/all people spray in second gear on up and almost forbid sprayin in 1st? too risky due to missing 2nd? or does it have to due with if you spray at too low of a RPM, you can backfire(fuel puddling)? I had a problem with that in my EK, i floored in it 1st at 3400RPMS (keep in mind i had the TB window switch, so floored means JUICE TIME!) it bogged and kinda sputtered, i let off to about 90% throttle so it stopped sprayin, then at 4500 got back on at 100% and life was good. Maybe that is the reason.. anyone?? bueller?
thanks

 

bought a bottle heater today! after a few hours of looking at charts and crap,,, for my jets, i chose 24 N2o and 18 for gas. Should be what i need, we'll find out how she runs next week!

 

looks good. I ran a similar setup for 3 months or so...You will live the DP kit expecially at 125shot

 

its 1:00am,,, finally got everything in and wired up,,, it was open header, i didnt care, she fired right up! wooooo! Tomorow is a test drive day, then its time to install the MSD system, test that,, then finish the N2o system, and yes,, Broo hoo hahhha! test that, i cant wait! next thurs (9th) ill be going to the track. times will be posted for sure!
-jimbo yO-!

 

sounds like your neighbors like you...

good luck with your n20 setup.

BTW my neighbors endured a 740 turbo volvo with a open downpipe at like 2am. Least they did not call the cops but someone kicked over the mailbox the next night... go figure.

 

got most the kinks worked out of it,still have more goodies to add. Heres a summary on how she runs. Spins first gear and second for a wee bit, then grips, chirps third, pulls like a MFer, chirps fourth, im doing 90+ MPH, gotta slow down, haha. on BFG drag radial Ta's!
this was on the hondata p13 redlining at 7800 --( gotta fix that low redline,stage 4 hondata owners where you at? hahha) all stock ignition, stock wires, plugs, coil, i had the VAFC hooked up, but i didnt have the A/f gauge hooked up yet, so no tunage. With all the MSD stuff and some tweakin on the VAFC, im thinkin it should be in the upper 13s on motor, this thing pulls really hard.
---just keepin everyone posted, MSD ignition will go in over the weekend,, if my cap ever comes in.
-jimbo