i have a 96 Prelude VTEC and im looking to buy an OBD1 ecu/harness for performance reasons (of course) but i was considering getting the JDM version of the p13 ecu. why? im not sure but i think it has a higher redline than the USDM ecu (7400 RPM)
Can anyone tell me what the redline is for the JDM p13 ecu cuz Id LOVE to rev higher. Also i figure if the redline is like 8000+ i could just remove the clear panel over the gauges and put a small piece of black electric tape (maybe?) over that little bit of RED from 7400 to 8000. then i could keep the stock gauge (which i LOVE) and visually make the redline 8k (or whatever the JDM ecu is)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KB96VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a 96 Prelude VTEC and im looking to buy an OBD1 ecu/harness for performance reasons (of course) but i was considering getting the JDM version of the p13 ecu. why? im not sure but i think it has a higher redline than the USDM ecu (7400 RPM)
Can anyone tell me what the redline is for the JDM p13 ecu cuz Id LOVE to rev higher. Also i figure if the redline is like 8000+ i could just remove the clear panel over the gauges and put a small piece of black electric tape (maybe?) over that little bit of RED from 7400 to 8000. then i could keep the stock gauge (which i LOVE) and visually make the redline 8k (or whatever the JDM ecu is)</TD></TR></TABLE>

A JDM p13 would be a waste of time

#1 a JDM P13 has the same redline 7400 and fuel cut 7800 as a stock P13.
#2 your car makes peak power at 6800, so revving higher is absolutely retarded unless you think you're cool or something, becuase it will make you slower and wear out your engine faster
#3 Don't buy a conversion harness unless you are going to get a P72/P28 and go with a hondata system. Just getting a harness and getting an OBDI ecu will give you minimal gains, and only useful ones if you put on an OBDI distributor as well.

 

then it would something like this.

 

peak power at 6800 eh? that sounds about right BUT my Lude maintains that power until redline at 7400 which is really important. if you can sustain that max power a lil longer than your makin better time. so if i can hit peak power at 6800 and maintain that until 8k than im golden. my lude DOES NOT drop off after 6800 it pulls all the way to redline.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KB96VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">peak power at 6800 eh? that sounds about right BUT my Lude maintains that power until redline at 7400 which is really important. if you can sustain that max power a lil longer than your makin better time. so if i can hit peak power at 6800 and maintain that until 8k than im golden. my lude DOES NOT drop off after 6800 it pulls all the way to redline.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Butt dyno or real dyno???

 

that's what i was gonna ask, do you have any charts to show that your lude is superior

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KB96VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">peak power at 6800 eh? that sounds about right BUT my Lude maintains that power until redline at 7400 which is really important. if you can sustain that max power a lil longer than your makin better time. so if i can hit peak power at 6800 and maintain that until 8k than im golden. my lude DOES NOT drop off after 6800 it pulls all the way to redline.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude from what you are saying it seems like you don't know too much about your engine. Yes peak power is around 6800, but after that it starts to drop off, not fast enough so you would notice it but enough for it to eventually slow you down if you were to keep rev'ing past redline. And about 8k, your stock tach is off, your H22 is not actually rev'ing to 8K more like around ~7600PRM, if you don't believe me get an aftermarket tach and watch the reading or better yet a VAFC. And please don't come with that stupid theory about you rev'ing higher and creating more power, unless you have dyno'd your engine and can prove your engine keeps making power up to redline then go ahead and shift past redline. And no, the JDM p13 would not give you a noticable amount of power compared to your OBD2 p13.

 

reving to 8k is retarded.. No reason to do it.. you just want to show off. Unless you have aftermarket cams to take advantage of the power at that RPM, don't do it..

BTW, I have yet to see a stock H22a dyno that the power didnt' fall off after 7k..

 

i'm going to be neutral here so i can give both sides a fair amount of attention.

reving to 8k might seem stupid. but for those of us who drag race. reving to 8k helps when you shift gears to be high enough in the rpms to be in our "powerband" for the next shift. etc. etc.

now granted the stock tach is off a bit. some are different. i've seen people say they shifted at 8k and their vafc only read 76xx. whereas with mine. (wish i had a picture) i hit 7,916 rpms with a -4 manifold pressure.(i'm allways checking the vafc).

but yes. the jdm p13 blows nuts.

 

hmmm.... wow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlude92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but yes. the jdm p13 blows nuts. </TD></TR></TABLE>

And how does it blow nutz.?. Mr. Expert

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cottonwoodz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

And how does it blow nutz.?. Mr. Expert</TD></TR></TABLE>

it's a USDM p13 with a speed governor...i've never seen dyno's that proved otherwise....yet to see proof it's superior to the usdm p13 except that there are more programs for it.....hondata/p28 is better anyway

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KB96VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">peak power at 6800 eh? that sounds about right BUT my Lude maintains that power until redline at 7400 which is really important. if you can sustain that max power a lil longer than your makin better time. so if i can hit peak power at 6800 and maintain that until 8k than im golden. my lude DOES NOT drop off after 6800 it pulls all the way to redline.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you're hallucinating then..here is my stock dyno.


notice how power TAKES A BIG DUMP at 6800 and bascially gives up. it's better on a 5th gen..but yeah that's pretty much it. You aren't making power up there so get it out of your head.

 

that was your stock dyno? I dynoed at 158.4 and I thought that was pretty low. Not to mention the fact that I had multiple CELS. How did you post your dyno? If you tell me I'll post mine. Thanks!


Modified by mattmw88 at 10:29 PM 9/22/2003

 

cottonwoodz: that ecu blows nuts because of the speed limiter. (the reason i hate it anyway). it's not very sought after because of that. and with that. it's hard as hell to sell. for some reason it didn't like my car when it was in there and surged really bad(although my o2 was bad) swapped it out with a usdm unit and the surge went away.

also a another reason it sucks is because most jdm p13's are from the 4ws vtec ludes. and thus it will throw a "soft" code that will not come up unless a major code comes up. and the shitty part about it is finding this unknown code. which took me a good hour or so to find on the search through honda tech.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlude92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cottonwoodz: that ecu blows nuts because of the speed limiter. (the reason i hate it anyway). it's not very sought after because of that. and with that. it's hard as hell to sell. for some reason it didn't like my car when it was in there and surged really bad(although my o2 was bad) swapped it out with a usdm unit and the surge went away.

also a another reason it sucks is because most jdm p13's are from the 4ws vtec ludes. and thus it will throw a "soft" code that will not come up unless a major code comes up. and the shitty part about it is finding this unknown code. which took me a good hour or so to find on the search through honda tech.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just because you had problems with your jdm p13 because you didn't do the research beforehand does not mean that it is a bad ecu. the jdm ecu has a 32 bit processor unlike most usdm 16 bit processor wi\hich means it can process data that much faster.

Also the speed limiter you speak of is easily taken care of by just chipping the ecu.

Furthermore as far as i have seen with the resale of p13's usdm go for about 150-200 were as jdm p13 go from 200-250, so since its a simple supply vs. demand issue then that means that JDM P13 are in more demand then usdm p13 hence the price.

unless you have dyno proof that a usdm is better then a JDM p13 then i will not believe other wise.

 

i'm not saying that the ecu itself performs less than say a usdm. i'm saying the main reason i hated the jdm p13 was because of the speed limiter.

i dunno about all of you. but i'm not about to "chip" a p13 only to go to hondata down the road. so i just swapped that ecu out for a usdm that i picked up.

and trust me. if you've ever dealt with p13 ecu's. the jdm's will not resale for much. trust me. i've sold quite a few and guess what. the most i've ever gotten was 100. why you ask? because of the speed limiter. people like to go fast. they don't like to be limited by anything.

you can believe what you want. i'm not forcing anything on you. im just stating from my fact that most see the jdm p13 as a waste because of the limiter. i've dealt wiht p13's for a while. i know about them. not saying you don't. but i've had my fair share of time spent with them so i know how things work around here. and in this area. jdm's aren't wanted.

 

well, i guess thats not good for you, because i have sold 3 different p13' between here and ebay and the lowest price i got was 202 for an auto ecu. so if you only got 100 bucks then thats your fault. especially with all the people who would by something just because it is JDM

 

you get the dynorun files from the dyno place and load them into the Dynojet runviewer software available on their site. Stock dyno with intake at 100,000 miles

Joel

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlude92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm going to be neutral here so i can give both sides a fair amount of attention.

reving to 8k might seem stupid. but for those of us who drag race. reving to 8k helps when you shift gears to be high enough in the rpms to be in our "powerband" for the next shift. etc. etc.

now granted the stock tach is off a bit. some are different. i've seen people say they shifted at 8k and their vafc only read 76xx. whereas with mine. (wish i had a picture) i hit 7,916 rpms with a -4 manifold pressure .(i'm allways checking the vafc).

but yes. the jdm p13 blows nuts. </TD></TR></TABLE>

was that right before you downshifted into 2nd lol. j/k

 

no criddy. that was a long time ago. i have no clue what kind of rpms i hit when i mis shifted. i wish i would have checked the rpms.