Upgrade vavle train for FI?
In a h23a, is it necessary to uprgade the valve train if I wanna run about 15psi?
keeping in mind it has forged pistons, rods and a resleeved block.
if the answer's yes, which area's of the vavle train need attention.
Valves? Intake AND Exhaust?
Valve springs?
Retainers?
Or is all this just overkill at that kind of boost?
Does anyone make these parts for the h23? Or can I use h22 bits?
Cheers.
keeping in mind it has forged pistons, rods and a resleeved block.
if the answer's yes, which area's of the vavle train need attention.
Valves? Intake AND Exhaust?
Valve springs?
Retainers?
Or is all this just overkill at that kind of boost?
Does anyone make these parts for the h23? Or can I use h22 bits?
Cheers.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenPoweredLude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all i can say is...you built the bottom end....why not build the head???</TD></TR></TABLE>
um...perhaps financial limitations?
um...perhaps financial limitations?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Teen Heartthrob »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
um...perhaps financial limitations?</TD></TR></TABLE>
wrong hobby~~
but if you do all that work, why not get the most of your gains by freeing some air up and allowing your car to breathe
um...perhaps financial limitations?</TD></TR></TABLE>
wrong hobby~~
but if you do all that work, why not get the most of your gains by freeing some air up and allowing your car to breathe
In most boosted situations, it's always nice to upgrade at least the exhaust valves to something stainless. Another nice thing to have in boosted applications is adjustable cam gears (adjusting overlap). Everything else doesn't necessarrily need "upgraded" as far as stronger (than stock) or better (than stock), as you're really not needing to exceed the stock rev limit. However, it's always nice to know that you'll have less of a chance of failure due to an upgraded valve train!
If someone disagrees, I'll sure they'll let you know!
Dan P.-
If someone disagrees, I'll sure they'll let you know!
Dan P.-
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arch-Angel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">someone said that the valvetrain h series are pretty weak... is this not the case then?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Id say it all depends on what your doing with the motor, if your going full build and max power, then why sell yourself short and not upgrade it all and know for a fact that youll be safe...
Id say it all depends on what your doing with the motor, if your going full build and max power, then why sell yourself short and not upgrade it all and know for a fact that youll be safe...
Thats true... but financial limitations ARE an issue...
The reason i want this info now is cause my engine is sitting on a bench. i figure I may as well save myself the expense of removing the engine later and just do the valves and springs now.
Which brings me to another question... does anyone even make springs and valves for h23? i guess h22 gear won't work...
Oh, and what sort of rpm increases can I expect from upgrading?
The reason i want this info now is cause my engine is sitting on a bench. i figure I may as well save myself the expense of removing the engine later and just do the valves and springs now.
Which brings me to another question... does anyone even make springs and valves for h23? i guess h22 gear won't work...
Oh, and what sort of rpm increases can I expect from upgrading?
one thing I've always read and even heard from Spoon directly, the stock honda valves are great already. One of the best benefits of them is if you *DO* somehow screw up you'll end up with bent valves. Honda R&D'ed them to do this, where as with aftermarket valves, which are "stronger", they won't bend but will infact shatter, sending bits and peices of valve all over.
Just something to think about... if you do mis-shift and the aftermarket valves do shatter you're going to end up with a pretty nice rebuild (atleast in my mind you'd have to do a bit to make sure there's no cylinder wall damage etc). If you haven't P&P'ed the head, you might want to do that to remove any restrictions between your IM and cylinders themselves.. and different cams and/or cam gears
Just something to think about... if you do mis-shift and the aftermarket valves do shatter you're going to end up with a pretty nice rebuild (atleast in my mind you'd have to do a bit to make sure there's no cylinder wall damage etc). If you haven't P&P'ed the head, you might want to do that to remove any restrictions between your IM and cylinders themselves.. and different cams and/or cam gears
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arch-Angel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats true...i figure I may as well....</TD></TR></TABLE>
you've been bit by the bug my friend...same thing happened to me.
if im getting this, i might as well get that, if im getting that i might...
just do it right, and dont rush in the end cause your soo close, or you'll end up doing it again, and kicking yourself in the ***, trust me.
you've been bit by the bug my friend...same thing happened to me.
if im getting this, i might as well get that, if im getting that i might...
just do it right, and dont rush in the end cause your soo close, or you'll end up doing it again, and kicking yourself in the ***, trust me.
the way i did it, is i am sending in my head to be PnP and have springs, retainers all installed: I ll use my jdm cams untill my new cams are regrinded and the profiles i want are done:
It would be cheaper and easier to do it this way, then to spend in the money the other way and then do springs, retainers where you would have to fully disassemble the head again
Also if your going to do all this head work, make sure you have a set of cam gears to adjust and tune the car with:
I have a set of H23 JG Cam Gears Brand New if anyone needs them!
It would be cheaper and easier to do it this way, then to spend in the money the other way and then do springs, retainers where you would have to fully disassemble the head again
Also if your going to do all this head work, make sure you have a set of cam gears to adjust and tune the car with:
I have a set of H23 JG Cam Gears Brand New if anyone needs them!
you are right fastludeh22...
It never seems to end...
ultimately though, I am not looking for an 800whp car. The max i want to take it to is about 350hp.
I already know all the things I CAN do, what I am trying to find out is what I NEED to do to get the longest possible life out of an engine that is doing around 15psi and 350 hp. (if those two figures match up...)
I don't want to go and waste my money on things just because they are there. i only want them if I need them to save me engine, or if I need them to help me achieve my goal.
So, do i need to upgrade the Valvetrain?
(yes cam gears and pulley kit are one the cards, they are cheap and helpful. Don't know about the pnp yet though, I don't know a lot about that sort of stuff or how much help it will be.)
It never seems to end...
ultimately though, I am not looking for an 800whp car. The max i want to take it to is about 350hp.
I already know all the things I CAN do, what I am trying to find out is what I NEED to do to get the longest possible life out of an engine that is doing around 15psi and 350 hp. (if those two figures match up...)
I don't want to go and waste my money on things just because they are there. i only want them if I need them to save me engine, or if I need them to help me achieve my goal.
So, do i need to upgrade the Valvetrain?
(yes cam gears and pulley kit are one the cards, they are cheap and helpful. Don't know about the pnp yet though, I don't know a lot about that sort of stuff or how much help it will be.)
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