Well i was changin one of my trailing arms, and tha new trailing arm i bought has a ripped bushing. It is tha big round one. Does anybody know how to take it off to replace it. Need help plz.

 

Since you have it off-drill it and burn it out. You cannot easily get a new one from the dealer. The alternative is an Energy Suspension poly replacement-save the pin in the center! or Prothane's molded one with metal shell. If you use the Prothane you will have to press it in. If using the ES one you must clean everything up completely. This is the solution I used and it works fine on my car. BTW-do both side while you are at it and also replace the LCA bushings on the ends-the shock mount can stay rubber.
Parts are available from several sources: I use Ultra Performance in Tucson and SummitRacing in Ohio.

 

Another trailing arm bushing you might want to consider cause they are a little cheaper than the prothane ones are the Mugen trailing arm bushings. They are $104 for the pair and come just like the prothanes (shell,pin,bushing) and all you do is press out the old one press in the new one. You can get the mugen ones at http://www.kingmotorsports.com or the prothane ones at http://www.jcwsportcompact.com

 

I'm running the Energy Suspension ones in my trailing arms now. WOW, what a difference! I have on videotape one side that I completed, and one side left stock and you could see how much SLOP the OEM one has.

It was a pita to get the old one removed. You have to cut or burn off all the old rubber, press or carve out the sleeve that the old bushing sat in, and then press in the new Energy Susp. bushings in.

That was the easy part. Removing the old was the harder part.

Good Luck. You won't be dissappointed.

 

you can get a new one from the dealer

 

Thanks for tha help guys. Well ima start cutting those suckas out. Ima go to tha auto parts place around here to see if thay have them.

 

clubb5.com-gator
By any chance do you have tha part number.

 

its on the bag in the picture...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clubb5.com-gator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can get a new one from the dealer

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Don't drop too much loot for a stock rubber bushing.....spend about the same and get a set of Prothane's model. They are sweet, and come complete, sleeve and all. Energy's are cheap for the trailing arm. Take my advice on this one go Prothane

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ef ***** &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Don't drop too much loot for a stock rubber bushing.....spend about the same and get a set of Prothane's model. They are sweet, and come complete, sleeve and all. Energy's are cheap for the trailing arm. Take my advice on this one go Prothane </TD></TR></TABLE>

For real, Prothant are like $100.00 and are ten times better then stock. If you have a lowered car your have probley already ripped and arnt doing you any good. Going OEM new ones wont help you out either. Becaues the rubber they use is just to weak.

Also to get it out. Just pound it out with a hammer. Mine popped right out.

 

For those that favour top speed on the freeways, I would NOT advise you to get prothane or ES. The stability of the car is not as good as with the NEW OEM honda replacement or the MUGEN replacement. I switch from ES Mugen.

When removing the trailing arm (should you choose to do that) do not touch the compensator arm bolt on the inner side, i.e. the one going to the body of the car.
I stripped mine and still have not fixed it!!!! arrrrhhh
HTH

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFSiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For those that favour top speed on the freeways, I would NOT advise you to get prothane or ES. The stability of the car is not as good as with the NEW OEM honda replacement or the MUGEN replacement. I switch from ES Mugen.

When removing the trailing arm (should you choose to do that) do not touch the compensator arm bolt on the inner side, i.e. the one going to the body of the car.
I stripped mine and still have not fixed it!!!! arrrrhhh
HTH
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I had them in my civic....to me they felt better on the parkway, all the slop was eliminated. Very stable doing high speed lane changes and psychotic 70 m.p.h. exits from the parkway on those fun windy exits.......guess I trusted my car a little too much though;read my sig.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFSiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For those that favour top speed on the freeways, I would NOT advise you to get prothane or ES. The stability of the car is not as good as with the NEW OEM honda replacement or the MUGEN replacement. </TD></TR></TABLE>


I wouldn't necessarily say the "STABILITY" of the car is not as good. It handles a lot better. Almost too good. Every bump or steering input can make the CRX "twitchy" at times because there is NO slop in the "joints".

The CRX is a "twitchy" car to begin with. Added the ES bushings will amplifly it even more. You got to be on your TOES driving a CRX at high speed, especially with ES bushings and stiff TEIN coilovers!

 

Read this thread https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=430704 and this one https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=49681 after reading these my only choices for traing arm bushing would be the OEM ones, the prothane ones, or the Mugen ones. I personally am getting the Mugen one since they are a bit stiffer than stock but not as stiff as the prothane ones. But you do want a little side to side motion but you want side to side flex not the whole bushing to move.

 

thanks for all you help and input guys.