Alright, I know I've made this post before but i have yet to get a solid answer. I am running a stock b16 in my civic with open headers, can this hurt my car in any way, shape or form?
Thanks again.

 

hurt your car? idk.

hurt your ears? hell yes.

why you running open header?

 

Only if its cold out side, well, thats what i was told. In the heat you shouldnt have a problem. But someone else can probably emphasize why. I heard you can burn valves somehow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by y49crxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Only if its cold out side, well, thats what i was told. In the heat you shouldnt have a problem. But someone else can probably emphasize why. I heard you can burn valves somehow.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no, he won't damage his motor by running open header. that theory about warped valves is a misnomer, unless you are talking about running w/o an exhaust manifold at all. the reason? a running motor is very very hot, much hotter than outside air temperature, so when running open exhaust ports there is potential for air that is too cold to get to the hot exhaust valves and damage them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by y49crxsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Only if its cold out side, well, thats what i was told. In the heat you shouldnt have a problem. But someone else can probably emphasize why. I heard you can burn valves somehow.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Running open header will in NO way burn your valves.....burning valves occurs from too much backpressure. A perfect example would be using a clooged cat for a while, which would hold back hot exhaust, eventually frying your valves/rings. Trust me I bought my lude running on 3 cylinders....it turned out that a clogged cat caused the motor to fubarr itself. I took the old block head apart to find white toasted valves.

 

why...

I hope this is when racing only.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quicker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright, I know I've made this post before but i have yet to get a solid answer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You want a solid answer. I've been doing this stuff Since 1999 from N/A to Foreced Induction. The terms may not be correct but I can build a hella motor. Hurt the motor, ha ha. No, but your wasting a lot of power. Your dealing with small displacement motor. Your want to do yourself some good put your muffler back on. Nothing about running straight out the header will help with heat at all. Matter of fact your poor motor is actually working harder now. These motors unless tuned or heavly modified would not really like running straight out. Back pressure is the key here. You've done lost all yours. You are worried about heat run a switch to the fan and leave it on. Running out header your encouraging heat. Your dropping all that hot air under your motor. My header dumps right in the middle of the oil pan (B16A). If it's already hot this definatly is not helping. Oil is the life blood of any motor. You that worried run two washers under the hood like they do in Japan so air passes under the hood and right back out over the windshield. I guess the best way to explain this in layman terms. Running cat back would be like jogging in the heat. Running header only in heat would be like jogging in the heat with 20 lbs leg weights.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B2FiNiTY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why...

I hope this is when racing only.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree. Although I did run my old crx for a while with a shorted DP kinda thing, (think of that JG header/DP combo for all motor, but ghetto) of course this wasnt my daily driver. It was fun for a bit, scared the CHIT outta people in minivans and whatnot. It was a b16/nitrous combo. For around town it was poop unless I was at 5000 or higher But it really shined @ the track.

 

ah the backpressure myth arises again

:/

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civicDXdude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ah the backpressure myth arises again

:/</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep, much like 90% of all honda info on the net.

 

i just dont like the idea of not running a cat...

 

ok so will the guy running a b16 open header yield slower or faster times at the track vs the guy with a full exhaust?? giving same car same motor?? thats what i wanna know.

 

has nothing to do with backpressure. what you want is velocity. backpressure is the result of a properly tuned exhaust on a lightly-mildly modified engine. the exhaust is wide enough to promote good flow, but narrow enough that you end up with some backpressure. but the reason you leave it this narrow is to maintain exhaust gas velocity. backpressure is a byproduct. I tihnk most people know this, but the term "backpressure" is so commonly used to describe teh situation where the exhaust is tuned properly.

the reason for this is so that the exhaust pulses will be going at a good speeds when it leaves the ports. when one port opens up, an exhaust pulse is released. when the next pulse is released, the first pulse will "pull" the exhaust gasses out of the cylinder, along with the cylinder pushing up on them. not only will this help get the nasty exhaust air out of the cylinder, it will leave it at a lower pressure than normal and get more fresh air/fuel in and mixed well. this is the "scavenging effect."

if you want to do yourself a favor, make sure you have pipes of the proper width. I think 1.75-2" is plenty. make sure your muffler is free flowing, but not too much so. fart can = bad. if you want to go the extra mile, wrap or jet-hot-coat your headers. heat = energy. the more energy, the faster teh exhaust will flow. heat energy is kinetic energy at the molecular level. mo hotta mo betta. also, the more heat kept in the exhaust gasses, the less heat in your engine bay.

that's all I got for now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just dont like the idea of not running a cat...</TD></TR></TABLE>


Then run one....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IggDawg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">has nothing to do with backpressure. what you want is velocity. backpressure is the result of a properly tuned exhaust on a lightly-mildly modified engine. the exhaust is wide enough to promote good flow, but narrow enough that you end up with some backpressure. but the reason you leave it this narrow is to maintain exhaust gas velocity. backpressure is a byproduct. I tihnk most people know this, but the term "backpressure" is so commonly used to describe teh situation where the exhaust is tuned properly.

the reason for this is so that the exhaust pulses will be going at a good speeds when it leaves the ports. when one port opens up, an exhaust pulse is released. when the next pulse is released, the first pulse will "pull" the exhaust gasses out of the cylinder, along with the cylinder pushing up on them. not only will this help get the nasty exhaust air out of the cylinder, it will leave it at a lower pressure than normal and get more fresh air/fuel in and mixed well. this is the "scavenging effect."

if you want to do yourself a favor, make sure you have pipes of the proper width. I think 1.75-2" is plenty. make sure your muffler is free flowing, but not too much so. fart can = bad. if you want to go the extra mile, wrap or jet-hot-coat your headers. heat = energy. the more energy, the faster teh exhaust will flow. heat energy is kinetic energy at the molecular level. mo hotta mo betta. also, the more heat kept in the exhaust gasses, the less heat in your engine bay.

that's all I got for now. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thank you for saying this now everyone remember it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ef ***** &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Running open header will in NO way burn your valves.....burning valves occurs from too much backpressure. A perfect example would be using a clooged cat for a while, which would hold back hot exhaust, eventually frying your valves/rings. Trust me I bought my lude running on 3 cylinders....it turned out that a clogged cat caused the motor to fubarr itself. I took the old block head apart to find white toasted valves.</TD></TR></TABLE>


No wonder why the lude took 5 min to hit 60 MPH


I have the same problem with my EF now, the damn cat is clogged again. I want to run with no cat but i need to pass inspection first. I know a guy thats gonna make a custom exhaust for me with the stock cat to pass inpsection, then take it off and put a test pipe on there.


Whenever i step on the gas and then get off the gas I hear a popping sound coming from the exhaust, but the sound is coming from the cat. It's starting to worry me because I know what can happen with a clogged cat, and after reading through this post I don't even want to drive it too much.

 

I dont belive all this BS about cats getting clogged all the time. Once in a while is one thing, but i think people just assume their cat is clogged so they will have a reason to run a straight pipe.

I drove on a d15 that was smoking like it was on fire for 6 months, and the GIRL who owned my civic before me probably drove it like that for god knows how many years. The cat is in perfect shape. You would figure that a massive oil burning piece of **** would clog a cat if anything.

I would suggest your problem is with some other part of the engine. Especially since you said the cat is clogged "again"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civicDXdude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont belive all this BS about cats getting clogged all the time. Once in a while is one thing, but i think people just assume their cat is clogged so they will have a reason to run a straight pipe.

I drove on a d15 that was smoking like it was on fire for 6 months, and the GIRL who owned my civic before me probably drove it like that for god knows how many years. The cat is in perfect shape. You would figure that a massive oil burning piece of **** would clog a cat if anything.

I would suggest your problem is with some other part of the engine. Especially since you said the cat is clogged "again"</TD></TR></TABLE>


The cat is 12 years old, I'm not assuming it's clogged and even if it wasn't I'd be running a test pipe. I was at my local shop last week getting the downpipe that came with my engine welded to the stock exhaust and the cat clogged, there's no doubt about it.


My old lude whom I sold it to "Ef *****", had a cat that was so clogged the car would hardly run.

Sorry about the hijacked thread

 

my grand am blew a headgasket, got driven 60 miles...clogged the cat, then got driven 60 more miles, and threw a rod bearing..a clogged cat can do some damage