the tps is broken. and the slave cylinder for the transmission fucked up.
also no ecu, shift linkage, wiring, axels.
let me know I can get this for under $2380

good deal or not..


Modified by bossman032 at 3:03 AM 9/20/2003


Modified by bossman032 at 4:54 AM 9/27/2003

 

bump anyone..?

 

it's like a storage room that's cluttered and BAM theres a friggen b16 sittin in the middle of it all lol

personally ive never owned one, and i guess it's cool cuz you can say you own a R motor, but i hear for the price diff. the integra R motor is a lot better, and you still have to buy a few things, you can get a b16 around where i live complete from about 1400 up too 2000 it's for the 160 first version, but, i mean what kind of gains is that gonna give you? 180? just get the first version and swap ctr cams later , make the same numbers or close, i know of one up for sale (just for my point) on tampa racing for 1450 complete, about 145 to the wheels compared to 160 whatever, it's still a b16, i don't know why i had so much to say on this topic, it's a b16 and i think you should just go with a b16a1

sorry i talked so long

cliff notes: it's a b16 stil just go with the first version and suffer the couple hp diff and swap a set of ctr's later

just my .02 cent's
it does look nice though

 

Try ebay. They have some for that price w/ transmission,sensors,ecu,etc for same price if not cheaper.

 

Well just to compare my b16a1 was 2500 mint w/ under 50K

 

na i wasnt doggin the deal, im just saying, down here i think it would just be cheaper to get the a1 and swap the cams, just cheap in fl

 

thanks for the thoughts guys

anyone else have any comment about this MOTOR and Deal..?

 

did that guy send you his resume and some headshots too???

i forgot why so forgive me if i'm talking out of my *** but i specifically heard that the b16b is not a great engine to get? but with the problems you mentioned you might as well try to get a good deal on a b18c5 type r, at least you could always sell the tranny for a couple hundred and get some of the money back.

 

yeah its a good deal if you get the 2 cans of maxwell house, the probably well aged wine, and of course his glasses... rip off imo ... have fun finding all of what you need to piece it together... i would rather buy a full b16 swap that i wouldnt have to worry about whats wrong with it or whats missing

 

I don't mean to rain on your parade. I got a motor direct from japan. It took like 2 weeks. However, it only cost me like 1527.00 to have it shipped directly to the house. I got Trani, ecu, complete B16A1 wiring harness, intermediate shaft, all the accessories, rear mount, trani and driver side mount, complete intake man, complete exhaust man. I can pick up the motor now from the same source for about 1700 same shape, any thing broke can be fedex'd to your house over night. The only thing left on your Ef swap is axles, shifting linkage, mounts and basic maintenance stuff. I replaced all in one shot, oil pan, plugs, plug wires, pvc, cleaned the block and head up some as well as the oil pan, flushed the motor, drained the orginal oil out of it. Changed clutch and turned the flywheel. There is a lot of work to get and purchase after you get the motor. Your not going anywhere without the mounts or the shifting linkage. You can now purchase the whole kit from hasport which I can get as well. So consider that before doing your EF swap. I just finished mine. Grand total, 1527.00 (swap), 657.00 (mounts, linkage, rear mount), 467 (axles), maintenance (150.00), 10.00 in gas for cleaning, bushings for shifting linkage (stock won't work), and all the tools to put it in. I've got over 3k invested into my swap so I could be reliable. think about this. I did my swap after recieving all the parts in 5 days. Without the tools and knowledge of friends and this board and my shop it would have been a royal mess. My B16A1 kicks *** and is very strong. Hence why I got my whole saler to get an account with these guys. I can H22's for cheap to. Hope this helps. I just finished mine so I wanted your to see what I went through. Little reality in the grand scheme of things. Sorry, I just wanted to make sure you were ready for what's ahead of you.

 

"Nice Engine-ski comrad!"

Might wanna redo or get another valve cover thought

 

Alrighty man, lemme give ya my $.02 here... First its a b16B which I think alot of people are missing. If you have proof the miles are low I say get it and here are my reasons: (these are all based upon whether or not you have an EF which I'm assuming you do if your posting it here, otherwise that would be just plain silly) 1. TPS Broke, no biggie, if you bought a swap from a company chances are it'd be broke during shipping anyway, plus therye a dime a dozen. 2. Slave cylinder messed up, another no biggie, assuming it came with the typeR LSD trans, fix that bitch and sell it you'll make half your money back right there, and you cant use the trans anyway unless you get hasports kit. 3. No ECU, axles, wiring, linkage: you cant use any of these things again assuming your dropping it into an EF so it wouldnt matter anyway. Those are my reasons, talk the guy down a bit and you'll be straight. Again this was all IMO and you may or may not have known all this stuff, but I felt like typing alot so there ya go... P.S. that'd be a sweet motor in any EF

 

I think it's a pretty good deal. B16b's are pretty rare. But get ready for some problems if you're gonna try and smog it in california.

 

anyone else with the Info in the SWAP EF with a B16b?

with YS1 92-93 GSR tranny

I am currently doing about 144WHP with cheap exhaust and intake and my fucken PR3 OBD1 vtec kickin at 6000RPM

how much power does the B16b put down.. WHP?

 

Isn't B16B (aka CTR of course) like 185 HP stock?

 

The B16B is a destroked B18C5. It has the same block and head as the b18C5. it is just destoked to 1.6 I would try and talk him down a little and you may have a good deal if you are swapping it into an EF. like sayed befor eunless you use the hasport cable to hydro kit the tranny is no ggod to you anyway. Also the shiftlinkage is no good. The wiring and ecu may be a problem but Im sure you can find them around. The CTR harness needs to be intigrated into the EF harness of your choice. jUst my .02.
-James-

 

http://www.locashracing.com carries OBD0 to OBD2 adapter harnesses. You could use the CTR ECU if you wanted to or you could run it with a chipped OBD1 ECU, and an OBD0 to OBD1 adapter. Also, with the use of the new Hasport B series mount set with Hydro tranny, you could use the sweet CTR/ITR tranny. If all you need are axles and a shift linkage, a new TPS (from any MPFI TB, ANY!) and some re-wiring of your existing engine harness, this is still a steal at $2,450. Jump all over that.

 

actually the price we have agreed is about $2,370!!!

my car is currently running OBD1 so I don't need to worry about wiring I will setup as OBD1 no wiring mods need hopefully



Modified by bossman032 at 6:50 AM 9/21/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solman74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't mean to rain on your parade. I got a motor direct from japan. It took like 2 weeks. However, it only cost me like 1527.00 to have it shipped directly to the house. I got Trani, ecu, complete B16A1 wiring harness, intermediate shaft, all the accessories, rear mount, trani and driver side mount, complete intake man, complete exhaust man. I can pick up the motor now from the same source for about 1700 same shape, any thing broke can be fedex'd to your house over night. The only thing left on your Ef swap is axles, shifting linkage, mounts and basic maintenance stuff. I replaced all in one shot, oil pan, plugs, plug wires, pvc, cleaned the block and head up some as well as the oil pan, flushed the motor, drained the orginal oil out of it. Changed clutch and turned the flywheel. There is a lot of work to get and purchase after you get the motor. Your not going anywhere without the mounts or the shifting linkage. You can now purchase the whole kit from hasport which I can get as well. So consider that before doing your EF swap. I just finished mine. Grand total, 1527.00 (swap), 657.00 (mounts, linkage, rear mount), 467 (axles), maintenance (150.00), 10.00 in gas for cleaning, bushings for shifting linkage (stock won't work), and all the tools to put it in. I've got over 3k invested into my swap so I could be reliable. think about this. I did my swap after recieving all the parts in 5 days. Without the tools and knowledge of friends and this board and my shop it would have been a royal mess. My B16A1 kicks *** and is very strong. Hence why I got my whole saler to get an account with these guys. I can H22's for cheap to. Hope this helps. I just finished mine so I wanted your to see what I went through. Little reality in the grand scheme of things. Sorry, I just wanted to make sure you were ready for what's ahead of you. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I know what I am doing bro. I currently have a OBD1 swap with same motor like urs with a YS1 GSR tranny!!! I guess u didn't see my sigh

 

I think it seems like a good deal, will be a lot of fun once you get it in, plus you will have the 'bragging rights' of a ctr motor in whatever you swap it in

 

The B16B is a turd engine, I would suggest going 1.8L instead. You can get a JDM B18C (SiR) with 5 less horsepower (178hp vs. 183hp), but a lot more torque and more potential. No replacement for displacement.

B16B is way overrated being a "Type-R" engine. It is rare to see one because nobody wants it. For the price it is not really a good deal; the best part of that engine IMHO is the transmission that's attached to it.

Or hell, just buy it on the cheap and sell it to some ricer for like $3200 . . . they usually go for $3500 or so. Make some cash

JMHO.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bossman032 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually the price we have agreed is about $2,370!!!

my car is currently running OBD1 so I don't need to worry about wiring I will setup as OBD1 no wiring mods need hopefully



Modified by bossman032 at 6:50 AM 9/21/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>

For 2370.00 I'd take that BIATCH in a heartbeat. Yeah, its still a torqueless 1.6 liter,but it revs like a banchee and if the actual CTR hydro LSD tranny is there with it......that alone is worth a lot.

Since you are already converted to OBD1, get a Hondata, get HaSport's new Hydro B series kit for EF's and put that BIATCH in!!

I'm currently putting a 98spec ITR motor with its own HYDRO LSD 4.7 final drive tranny using HaSport's latest kit. The project should be done soon. I'm waiting for some items to get powdercoated .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HandCommand &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

For 2370.00 I'd take that BIATCH in a heartbeat. Yeah, its still a torqueless 1.6 liter,but it revs like a banchee and if the actual CTR hydro LSD tranny is there with it......that alone is worth a lot.

Since you are already converted to OBD1, get a Hondata, get HaSport's new Hydro B series kit for EF's and put that BIATCH in!!

I'm currently putting a 98spec ITR motor with its own HYDRO LSD 4.7 final drive tranny using HaSport's latest kit. The project should be done soon. I'm waiting for some items to get powdercoated .</TD></TR></TABLE>


I wouldn't take that BIATCH in a heartbeat without a compression test; who knows how bad that kid in the pic beat it. Plus I'm almost positive that motor is OBD-2, not OBD-1. That engine is not worth all that money....buy a first gen b16 for $1100, use the extra $1000+ dollars for aftermarket goodies, and you'll **** on that b16b. That is the best and smartest road to go. Oh wait I know....you want to be able to say "I have a b16b" for the props issue thing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solman74 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't mean to rain on your parade. I got a motor direct from japan. It took like 2 weeks. However, it only cost me like 1527.00 to have it shipped directly to the house. I got Trani, ecu, complete B16A1 wiring harness, intermediate shaft, all the accessories, rear mount, trani and driver side mount, complete intake man, complete exhaust man. I can pick up the motor now from the same source for about 1700 same shape, any thing broke can be fedex'd to your house over night. The only thing left on your Ef swap is axles, shifting linkage, mounts and basic maintenance stuff. I replaced all in one shot, oil pan, plugs, plug wires, pvc, cleaned the block and head up some as well as the oil pan, flushed the motor, drained the orginal oil out of it. Changed clutch and turned the flywheel. There is a lot of work to get and purchase after you get the motor. Your not going anywhere without the mounts or the shifting linkage. You can now purchase the whole kit from hasport which I can get as well. So consider that before doing your EF swap. I just finished mine. Grand total, 1527.00 (swap), 657.00 (mounts, linkage, rear mount), 467 (axles), maintenance (150.00), 10.00 in gas for cleaning, bushings for shifting linkage (stock won't work), and all the tools to put it in. I've got over 3k invested into my swap so I could be reliable. think about this. I did my swap after recieving all the parts in 5 days. Without the tools and knowledge of friends and this board and my shop it would have been a royal mess. My B16A1 kicks *** and is very strong. Hence why I got my whole saler to get an account with these guys. I can H22's for cheap to. Hope this helps. I just finished mine so I wanted your to see what I went through. Little reality in the grand scheme of things. Sorry, I just wanted to make sure you were ready for what's ahead of you. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Whole bunch of pointless info that he already knows.....that post was long and corny. "I can get H22's for cheap to. Hope that helps." How the hell does that help? Or have anything the do with the topic? Stop trying to sound 'cool' noob. And please explain to me what "Little reality in the grand scheme of things" means? Do you smoke crack-cocaine? Not to be an ******* that post sounds so "I wanna be cool" that it's ******* ridiculous. Dork. I hate flaming people, but dude your a red flag posting crap like that......Have a good one! You also spell and have the gramatic skills of a 13 yr. old at the age of 28.....


Modified by Ef ***** at 4:23 AM 9/21/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ef ***** &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Plus I'm almost positive that motor is OBD-2, not OBD-1.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


Ahh? You do realize that if his car is already set-up for OBD1, then running this OBD2 motor in his EF chassis is candy right? You use his OBD1 electronics and wiring harness. If he wants to use the OBD2 dizzy, all he needs to do is change the 2 plugs into one big plug. If this motor by chance has a Crank Angle sensor ( OBD2), you just dont use it with his electronics. I doubt it though, because some JDM OBD2 motors dont use that sensor. You mostly see it on the U.S. market engines.

I dont think this being an OBD2 motor is an issue.

At least for me it isnt.