^Topic.

I know. Not possible right? Thing is, when I went to check my ECU for codes last week, PM6 is staring me right in the face on the side of the ECU case, next to the serial numbers.

WTF? It can't be possible that a PM6 is running my B16a, right? If it makes any difference the ECU does appear to be modified, as there is a Pro-speed engine management sticker on the ECU case.

Anyone care to enlighten me on WTF is up with this ECU? I'm thinking someone switched a different ECU into the factory case so it would fit in the stock location? If that's the case how can I tell what I have?

Thanks.

 

it'll run, just not well....... no VTEC, run pretty lean, etc. should be throwing some codes though......

ALTHOUGH I know quite a few people with a PM6 running a B16 prog......

 

..did you get the car with the swap already in it or something? open it up and take alook at its guts to see if you can identify it..

 

Yea I bought the car on Ebay fully hooked up for $3500. It is throwing 2 codes every now and again, and only when I downshift to slow down. A 15 and a 22 if I remember correctly. The car runs great, plugs looks exceptional if not a little lean as stated. Also, VTEC is hooked up to a switch that is attached to the shifter. I have to engage VTEC at about 6200rpm, otherwise I lose a good chunk of power. Pulls very hard from 6200 and up tho.

I'm not super concerned about this, as the car does run great. I was just more interested to find out what I had going on with the computer.

I'll crack the case open this weekend and take a look at the guts. Is there anything in particular I should be looking to find for ECU identification?

Thanks

 

1 more thing. If I ever wanted to put a different ECU in the car, would it just plug in to the current harness? Or would I have to re-wire the plugs to fit say a PR3 ECU?

 

is it a Zdyne one wire ecu?

 

i drove with a pm6 ecu for about a month while waiting for hmotorsonline to send me a new one since the one i recieved was dented and not working. i had no problems.

i would reccomend taking it easy till you do get the pr3/pwo ecu.

 

..so you're saying you 'manually' operate vtec with a toggle switch or something?

if so..then I"m sure there is a good chance that that is a pm6...

..if you want to make the change simple, def. check out zdyne's ecu..

 

jisu009:
I dont know if it is a Zdyne one wire ECU. I've never heard of a "one wire" ECU. It appears to be factory besides the engine magagement sticker.

90civichbsi:
I haven't been rodding on it too much, but when I do it sounds and responds pretty well. No pings and such, but I have been running premium with a Lucas Oil fuel additive.

markedOO1:

Yea, VTEC is on a toggle switch that is taped to the shifter. If I engage before 6200rpm I lose power, right on 6200 it will hesitate then take off, over 6200 it just takes off. If i had to guess I would say that this thing is running off the O2 sensor FULL-TIME, if that is possible.

I'd defintaly like to switch to a VTEC ecu, or just buy a Apexi V-AFC if I could get away with that for VTEC engagement and fuel enrichment puposes.

Will a Zdyne, PR3, or PW0, plug into my current harness? Or will I have to get a different harness, and rewire it? From what it looks like now there are NO emission sensors or anything hooked up. I'd kinda like to keep it that way as I hate that BS equipment anyways.

Keep the info coming! Thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybridize &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Also, VTEC is hooked up to a switch that is attached to the shifter. I have to engage VTEC at about 6200rpm, otherwise I lose a good chunk of power. Pulls very hard from 6200 and up tho.

I'm not super concerned about this, as the car does run great. Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>


I highly doubt your car is running "great". I'll tell you why....

If you have to have a "switch" to turn on your VTEC, chances are, you dont have a DOHC VTEC Ecu or maybe you do, but the shop did not know how to wire it up correctly so the ECU can activate it.

A lot of people dont realize that when VTEC engages, many things also change, ( ex. fuel curves, timing, etc. ) When you use a "switch" to activate VTEC, its not the same as letting the ECU do it like Honda meant it to be.

Here, Ive got a story for you that I ran across last year. A customer approached me in regards to installing a VTEC controller for him on his car that just got a 1st gen B16 swap for his CRX. I asked him why didnt he just let the ECU do it. ( He told me he got a complete swap with ECU)

He told me the shop who was doing his swap told him that the ECU he got was the wrong one and that he needs to go buy a Vtec controller to activate VTEC.

Well, to make a long story short, I find out the shop did not have the knowledge to wire his CRX for a Pr3 or PWO Vtec ECU, so instead, they just "PEELED OFF" the PM6 label on his stock ECU and ran the B16a off of that and had the customer spent more money on a VTEC controller to activate VTEC.

What did the shop do with the JDM Pr3 or PWO ecu? THEY KEPT IT! What scammers!! ( I dont know why they would keep it anyway, since they didnt know how to wire it up in the first place....hehehehe) They probably kept it to sell it on Ebay or something.

Well, in the end, the customer has never gone back to that shop, and now that customer has been a repeat for me. I guess that shop has issues with me.

WHY? I think they are mad because the customer "hired" me to check out what they have done wrong and how they tried to scam him out of an ECU. Not only that, they told him to go out and buy a VTEC controller because they didnt want to or know how to wire up the ECU he got from his B16a package.

Nevertheless, that customer has since got rid of that CRX. He now comes to my shop for his future projects. He also has referred a bunch of his friends too!

*** To that "shop" who may be reading this......I have no personal issues with you guys. I'm just doing my job. If you are proud of your work and stand behind it, you shouldn't have any concerns. Its only fair that the customer get what he pays for and the job done right.

I have built a reputation of quality of swaps that come out of my shop. Many of my customers are PROUD to tell others they had their swap done by HAND COMMAND. Many of them even have labels showing the HAND COMMAND logo on their swaps. I dont force them to display it. They want to!

In a nutshell, if you have no shame in your game, you should have no worries about others examining your swaps if it was done right. RIGHT?

In conclusion.......that motor will run best with its own ECU wired up and running correctly. ( in this scenario ) Using a "switch" to activate just the VTEC solenoid is not the best way to go. I guarantee it.

 

running a pr3 would probably be the best way to go, but if you had, lets say a vafc then you would have no problem running the pm6. you also might want to get rid of that vtec on a switch as soon as possible, that ***** just stupid, like others mentioned fuel curves change on the pr3 ecu in favor of vtec, but if it is hooked up to a switch then you will obviously run lean. i personally am running a pm6 in my car but it is a stock b16 program remapped to run 450cc injectors. as for just pluging in a pr3 or pwo you can do it but you have to add 3 pins to the ecu, one for knock, oil pressure, and the vtec silenoid. you can find out what pins exactly at the hasport website.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr. wu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as for just pluging in a pr3 or pwo you can do it but you have to add 3 pins to the ecu, one for knock, oil pressure, and the vtec silenoid. you can find out what pins exactly at the hasport website.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Dont forget the secondary O2 sensor at C8 and C16. Don't just tie them together like I've heard some people do. Run the engine like Honda intended with the 2 O2 sensors and you will be happy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HandCommand &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Dont forget the secondary O2 sensor at C8 and C16. Don't just tie them together like I've heard some people do. Run the engine like Honda intended with the 2 O2 sensors and you will be happy. </TD></TR></TABLE>
that as well, i completely for got about that

 

only problem is, if you get an aftermarket header, you'll have to weld in another bung in it. most places balk when they see a stainless ehader come in, and would you trust them to hack up your $400 header?

if you splice 2 into 1 sensor however, you'll run rich. wont throw a code, but it wont run as well as it could. maybe get an o2 sensor simulator and run the secondary wire to that.....

 

Woot! A new day, which means I can post up to 5 more times!

I thought about the 2nd O2 sensor being a small problem as well. I can handle the cutting and welding to get a second O2 bung, as fabrication I see as the easy part. The part I'm worried about is the wiring... It's not so much the wiring of things together it's making sure that I 'm wiring the CORRECT things together. When I checked out the ECU the other day there were about 15-20 cut wires just chilling outside the ecu case, not hooked up to anything. Which is good in one way because I don't like a bunch of unnecessary sensors running, but its bad as far as knowing which wire is which.

If any of you guys know of a good wiring schematic and diagram resource page please post the addresses. I'm gonna need em.

I'm pretty sure I can handle this myself if I get the proper info, as the only problem I can see myself getting into is not wiring things up right.

Also, do you think I could get away with just using a V-AFC for VTEC and fuel enrichment purposes? Or would I have better results buying a VTEC ECU, and a V-AFC? I know I'll need the V-AFC sooner or later to tune for mods, so I don't mind buying that. I just don't want to buy a VTEC ECU if its not necessary and will get me the same results with just a V-AFC.

Also, if I must get a different ECU, which one should I get? PR3? PW0?

Thanks again for all the help, I appreciate it!

 

PR3 has the higher redline, but uses 2 O2 sensors, PW0 uses one.

your call

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phatwhippin_CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">PR3 has the higher redline, but uses 2 O2 sensors, PW0 uses one.

your call</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wrong. the JDM PW0 uses 2 oxygen sensors as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr. S &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Wrong. the JDM PW0 uses 2 oxygen sensors as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, I agree with Mr. S. Both the JDM OBD0 Pr3 and PWO ecu's use 2 single wire O2 sensors.

The PWO came from the JDM CRX SIR, the PR3 came from the JDM Integra XSI.

The PR3 was offered in both AUTO and MANUAL versions.

The PWO was only offered in MANUAL. I dont think they had an AUTO B16 in Japan. I know they have an AUTO CRX DX here is the U.S. though.

 

TO HYBRIDIZE
this site gives the differences between a dx ecu and a sir ecu, it shows all the the pins. http://www.hasport.com/Tech/Wr...R.htm
and as for just using an pm6 with a vafc. it can be done with little to no problems.

 

Great info guys, thanks a bunch! I'll keep ya posted on how see turns out.

Thanks.

 

i would say keep the pm6 i have been running myne for 4 years on my ls/vtec 13.8 et n/a and 12.6 on boost havent trow a cel on me yet and run likes stock,vtec its activated by msd rpm swicth at 5,200 rpm

 

Ghetto

 

I still would like to hear more about the Zdyne ECU. better yet the Super ECU. Am I wrong to think that the SECU would use the existing wiring/plugs in the car and give you more tuning options? It looks as though the SECU would be able to run a Vtec motor or non-vtec if they kept the same OBD. Whats the scoop?

 

People have been known to run B16's on PM6 ECUs to pass emissions. Other than that, I'd just wire up the PR3 or PW0. Its not that difficult, and definately worth the extra work.

 

If you decide to go with a PW0/PR3 OBD0 VTEC ecu and have a choice then go with a PR3 ecu there are alot more aftermarket programs available for those ecus.