Anyone running 2 piece rotors on their ITR
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2k1 itr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Erandi speed make two piece rotors for the ITR. Just wanted to know if anyone is using them have any comments. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Not running them but curious about;
Price,
Link,
Purpose?
Not running them but curious about;
Price,
Link,
Purpose?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Type R 01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The purpose of two piece rotors:
1. Less weight</TD></TR></TABLE>
This I could understand.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Type R 01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2. More resitance to heat</TD></TR></TABLE>
I could also possibly accept this.
But,
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Type R 01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3. Lifetime warranty against warping</TD></TR></TABLE>
Huh? Who provides this? Again please with the:
Links?
&
Price?
And as for warping, (which shouldn't be an issue even with stock rotors) Lifetime warrenties are wonderful for any part (especially wear items like a rotor) but, how does anyone expect to provide a lifetime warrenty for a rotor supposedly designed to meet more extreme conditions/standards?
Heres a good link about the (warping issue)
http://stoptech.com/whitepaper...h.htm
So in reality if they provide a lifetime warrenty against something that more than likely won't even happen, they are just blowing smoke? OR opening themselves up to a load of claims which will lead to customer downtime while awaiting replacement or support or a decision even.
H'mm what a quandry...
Very curious indeed.
1. Less weight</TD></TR></TABLE>
This I could understand.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Type R 01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2. More resitance to heat</TD></TR></TABLE>
I could also possibly accept this.
But,
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Type R 01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3. Lifetime warranty against warping</TD></TR></TABLE>
Huh? Who provides this? Again please with the:
Links?
&
Price?
And as for warping, (which shouldn't be an issue even with stock rotors) Lifetime warrenties are wonderful for any part (especially wear items like a rotor) but, how does anyone expect to provide a lifetime warrenty for a rotor supposedly designed to meet more extreme conditions/standards?
Heres a good link about the (warping issue)
http://stoptech.com/whitepaper...h.htm
So in reality if they provide a lifetime warrenty against something that more than likely won't even happen, they are just blowing smoke? OR opening themselves up to a load of claims which will lead to customer downtime while awaiting replacement or support or a decision even.
H'mm what a quandry...
Very curious indeed.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Less weight?
In the first place, the only two piece rotors I've seen weighed just as much as the conventional rotors.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then you have never held the Stoptech 2-piece rotors. They are about half the weight of the oem rotor. Too bad they don't make them anymore... Good thing I have a set though
Less weight?
In the first place, the only two piece rotors I've seen weighed just as much as the conventional rotors.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then you have never held the Stoptech 2-piece rotors. They are about half the weight of the oem rotor. Too bad they don't make them anymore... Good thing I have a set though
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Todd00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good thing I have a set though</TD></TR></TABLE>
light = yes
check yours for cracks (at the mounting bolts) after use.
light = yes
check yours for cracks (at the mounting bolts) after use.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Type R 01 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.erandispeed.com</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok this is what I got from Brembo since the link you supplied doesn't work.
http://hp.brembo.com/brandlist...D=234
"Gran Turismo Brake Systems
The next performance level, Gran Turismo, is comprised of both 1 or 2-piece vented rotors that are 12 to 14 inch cross-drilled and/or slotted. In the 2-piece system, billet aluminum hats are application specific and have been individually machined to engineering specifications. The marriage of these pieces create a "floating disc" which reduces heat related stress and improves brake performance and pedal feel. The Gran Turismo system may be available with your choice of black, red or silver calipers."
It obviously applies to their Gran Turismo brake system.
I could understand the heat issue as described by their floating disk description.
Not that I'm off like a brides nighty to ****** up a set for myself mind you. Just investigating further before I'm labeled by others as narrowminded
The price is forbidding for my budget and purpose but, the concept is intriguing. I've never really investigated these before.
Ok this is what I got from Brembo since the link you supplied doesn't work.
http://hp.brembo.com/brandlist...D=234
"Gran Turismo Brake Systems
The next performance level, Gran Turismo, is comprised of both 1 or 2-piece vented rotors that are 12 to 14 inch cross-drilled and/or slotted. In the 2-piece system, billet aluminum hats are application specific and have been individually machined to engineering specifications. The marriage of these pieces create a "floating disc" which reduces heat related stress and improves brake performance and pedal feel. The Gran Turismo system may be available with your choice of black, red or silver calipers."
It obviously applies to their Gran Turismo brake system.
I could understand the heat issue as described by their floating disk description.
Not that I'm off like a brides nighty to ****** up a set for myself mind you. Just investigating further before I'm labeled by others as narrowminded
The price is forbidding for my budget and purpose but, the concept is intriguing. I've never really investigated these before.
I ran the Fastbrakes 2 piece 11" diameter 1" thick rotors that use an aluminum hat.
on my Hybrid hatchback and on my GSR sedan.
they were barely a bit lighter than stock ITR rotors but were thicker.
yay
they were ridiculously expensive.
boo.
they looked very impressive.
whoopdeeeeedooo.
the choice to run Brembo blanks is a no-brainer.
on my Hybrid hatchback and on my GSR sedan.
they were barely a bit lighter than stock ITR rotors but were thicker.
yay
they were ridiculously expensive.
boo.
they looked very impressive.
whoopdeeeeedooo.

the choice to run Brembo blanks is a no-brainer.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
light = yes
check yours for cracks (at the mounting bolts) after use.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just use them for autox, where they are a huge benefit and don't see a ton of heat. If/when the R goes on the track, I'll put the oem blanks back on.
light = yes
check yours for cracks (at the mounting bolts) after use.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just use them for autox, where they are a huge benefit and don't see a ton of heat. If/when the R goes on the track, I'll put the oem blanks back on.
George is obviously an expert on brakes or he could just be cheap. Mass is not important in dissapating heat, larger surface area dissapates heat. Rotors should not wear out several times a year. If you are wearing out your rotors several times a year it would seem to be obvious that you are warping them. Thats what happens when you wear out a rotor. I alsop agree that for the money brembo blanks or slotted are the best. I just want to know if anyone has tried 2 piece and how they liked them. Also George do you buy cheap tires because they are wear items. I hope not if you drive aggressivly or track the car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2k1 itr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mass is not important in dissapating heat</TD></TR></TABLE>
It does play a very important part.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2k1 itr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rotors should not wear out several times a year. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I average two sets of front rotors a season (year).
I have a 2001 ITR and the current rotors that are on the car are my 7th set.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2k1 itr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it would seem to be obvious that you are warping them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My rotors never warp... the crack (from heat stress).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2k1 itr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hope not if you drive aggressivly or track the car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Prepare for a Grandpaw run thru...
Brembh0 or Autozone rotors are just fine. If you want to shave 2-3 lbs from your front suspension... get the much more expensive two piece rotors.
It does play a very important part.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2k1 itr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rotors should not wear out several times a year. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I average two sets of front rotors a season (year).
I have a 2001 ITR and the current rotors that are on the car are my 7th set.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2k1 itr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it would seem to be obvious that you are warping them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My rotors never warp... the crack (from heat stress).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2k1 itr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hope not if you drive aggressivly or track the car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Prepare for a Grandpaw run thru...

Brembh0 or Autozone rotors are just fine. If you want to shave 2-3 lbs from your front suspension... get the much more expensive two piece rotors.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2k1 itr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">George is obviously an expert on brakes</TD></TR></TABLE>
Since when??
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or he could just be cheap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Doubt it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mass is not important in dissapating heat, larger surface area dissapates heat.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Check your physics again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rotors should not wear out several times a year. If you are wearing out your rotors several times a year it would seem to be obvious that you are warping them. Thats what happens when you wear out a rotor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What the hell???
Rotors 'wear out' as Willard and George are talking about due to heat stress, which in turn causes small cracks, which in turn cause fractures. Mine are cracking, this is due to the fact that there is little/no room for air to travel across the rotors and cool them because I still have my stock dust shields intact and NO brake ducting. (and the fact that they have close to 1000 track miles) This is normal, very normal. And my rotors are perfect, not warped at all. Nor were they warped when I had that violent shudder at the expo when I was on the brakes... that was easily fixed by re-bedding the pads to remove any cold spots caused by material transfer from the pad. Just read the white paper by stoptech if you dont believe me.
I suppose you also think there is no such thing as film/material transfer, and that ALL shuddering while braking is caused by warped rotors?? Very, very, very untrue.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I alsop agree that for the money brembo blanks or slotted are the best. I just want to know if anyone has tried 2 piece and how they liked them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Contradiction with your previous statement.
IF surface area is the only determining factor in dissapating heat, why are you using rotors with effectively SMALLER surface areas due to cross drilling/slotting??? HRM....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also George do you buy cheap tires because they are wear items. I hope not if you drive aggressivly or track the car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you define as a cheap tire? I drive Falken Azenis on the track, which cost roughly 50-70/tire. They are most definiltey not a 'cheap' tire, only cheap in price.
Modified by Chris N at 5:35 PM 9/17/2003
Since when??

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">or he could just be cheap.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Doubt it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Mass is not important in dissapating heat, larger surface area dissapates heat.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Check your physics again.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rotors should not wear out several times a year. If you are wearing out your rotors several times a year it would seem to be obvious that you are warping them. Thats what happens when you wear out a rotor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What the hell???
Rotors 'wear out' as Willard and George are talking about due to heat stress, which in turn causes small cracks, which in turn cause fractures. Mine are cracking, this is due to the fact that there is little/no room for air to travel across the rotors and cool them because I still have my stock dust shields intact and NO brake ducting. (and the fact that they have close to 1000 track miles) This is normal, very normal. And my rotors are perfect, not warped at all. Nor were they warped when I had that violent shudder at the expo when I was on the brakes... that was easily fixed by re-bedding the pads to remove any cold spots caused by material transfer from the pad. Just read the white paper by stoptech if you dont believe me.
I suppose you also think there is no such thing as film/material transfer, and that ALL shuddering while braking is caused by warped rotors?? Very, very, very untrue.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I alsop agree that for the money brembo blanks or slotted are the best. I just want to know if anyone has tried 2 piece and how they liked them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Contradiction with your previous statement.
IF surface area is the only determining factor in dissapating heat, why are you using rotors with effectively SMALLER surface areas due to cross drilling/slotting??? HRM....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also George do you buy cheap tires because they are wear items. I hope not if you drive aggressivly or track the car. </TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you define as a cheap tire? I drive Falken Azenis on the track, which cost roughly 50-70/tire. They are most definiltey not a 'cheap' tire, only cheap in price.
Modified by Chris N at 5:35 PM 9/17/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2k1 itr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just want to know if anyone has tried 2 piece and how they liked them. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Ask Sandor (Sean); his H-T username is SBE
Ask Sandor (Sean); his H-T username is SBE
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My rotors never warp... the crack (from heat stress).</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mine too.
The whole idea behind two-piece rotors, as 1GreyTeg quoted, is to allow the rotor surface to expand with heat, in a way that reduces the stress that results in cracks. With a two-piece rotor, the outer "ring" can expand without being a fixed part of a full disk whose inner surface ("hat") doesn't have the same kind of heat and can't expand at the same rate.
On my ITR, my Stoptech two-piece rotors have given me several times the number of track miles that one-piece rotors did.
BTW, my understanding is that the Stoptech two-piece rotors are not permanently discontinued, they're just re-sourcing suppliers...
Mine too.
The whole idea behind two-piece rotors, as 1GreyTeg quoted, is to allow the rotor surface to expand with heat, in a way that reduces the stress that results in cracks. With a two-piece rotor, the outer "ring" can expand without being a fixed part of a full disk whose inner surface ("hat") doesn't have the same kind of heat and can't expand at the same rate.
On my ITR, my Stoptech two-piece rotors have given me several times the number of track miles that one-piece rotors did.
BTW, my understanding is that the Stoptech two-piece rotors are not permanently discontinued, they're just re-sourcing suppliers...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whtdc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the pedal and the streeling wheel virbrated a lot when I tried to brake at about 175KM or above</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like warped rotor to me.
Also, I have 2 piece rotors.
Sounds like warped rotor to me.
Also, I have 2 piece rotors.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Migs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Sounds like warped rotor to me.
Also, I have 2 piece rotors.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's the thing. Most of the time it ISN'T warped rotors.
I'll ask nsxtasy to post the link to the whitepaper on this issue.... since I can't find my link to it.
Material/film transfer is usually the issue, not warping.....
Sounds like warped rotor to me.
Also, I have 2 piece rotors.
</TD></TR></TABLE>That's the thing. Most of the time it ISN'T warped rotors.
I'll ask nsxtasy to post the link to the whitepaper on this issue.... since I can't find my link to it.
Material/film transfer is usually the issue, not warping.....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whtdc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have this rotor on my car and I wraped it after 2 track days
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are those Project Mu SCR-Pros???
Are those Project Mu SCR-Pros???
I just replaced pads on an Audi A6 with the same symptoms. Vibration under heavy speeds. Obviously, my customer does not drive as hard as you do. So we put factory Audi pads and it fixed the problem. We miced the rotor and it literally had no run out, at all.
In this case, I was able to prove cheap pads give the same symptoms.
In this case, I was able to prove cheap pads give the same symptoms.
Heres the correct link: http://www.eradispeed.com/ Read what is not covered under the warped rotor warranty; most likely hard to have them honor most claims.



