k, the swap is installed with the hasport billet kit, i have yet to hook up the clutch cable, axles, knuckle/hub assemblies, and linkage though. Here are my issues:

1) i have no clearance on the driver side between the crank pulley and the frame rail. we put the motor half way in initially then saw it was hitting, pulled the motor, banged the hell out of the frame rail with a BFH, re-installed and i had 1CM of clearance, but after tightening up all the mounts I have 0 CM of clearance at one point. should i just angle grind the snot out of the frame rail so the pulley clears? i have no clue even if i did have 1 cm of clearance how I'd ever remove the alternator belt or crank pulley itself. help!

2) my hood is like 3" away from closing. WTH!?! the valve cover seriously sits so high that I don't even think trimming the webbing under the hood will make much of a difference. will an SiR hood clear the b17?

3) starter won't go, click, turn or anything when i put the key to "start". i thought the starter was blown so i took it to checker and they bench tested it and it works fine and above spec. i'm assuming it's not getting power or ground. Since i know i had the battery cable bolted down to it tightly and the "trigger" wire connected securely, i'm assuming it's a grounding issue. i have the battery cable ground wire that connects from the battery to the chassis to the clutch cable bracket hooked up. the thermostat housing engine harness ground is securely connected. where else can I look?

-Trevor

 

Well it sounds like there is a problem with the mounts or something. I don't think the Hasport mounts would "sit" the engine that high in the engine bay. You shouldn't really be having clearance issues with the hood or the frame rail. I'm assuming that you hit the crap out of the frame rail adjacent to the alternator pulley already, right? Got any pics by chance?

 

Hi Yum, I haven't got as far as you yet. Something surprising fell into my hands tonight. I'll post later when I know more.
But just some thoughts.
Did you re-use the 2G teg rear tranny bracket?
And did you also remember to move the rear bracket over to the pass. side second set of holes, in the rear crossmember?

 

im havin problems with my b17 EF , vaccum though. when you do your vacuum lines or if you have post me a digital pic

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wyt r1ce &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im havin problems with my b17 EF , vaccum though. when you do your vacuum lines or if you have post me a digital pic

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Check an online helms, it has vacuum routing. In the "fuel-emissions" sect.
I'll give a verbal description if you want, later, I've gotta go to work.
I don't have a scanner or digicam or I'd post it.
HTH

 

i think im missing the pressure regulator

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 4crx4me &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hi Yum, I haven't got as far as you yet. Something surprising fell into my hands tonight. I'll post later when I know more.
But just some thoughts.
Did you re-use the 2G teg rear tranny bracket?
And did you also remember to move the rear bracket over to the pass. side second set of holes, in the rear crossmember?</TD></TR></TABLE>

what's your surprise then?

yes, i used the 92 gs-r rear bracket, and according to http://www.hasport.com/Tech/Installs/EFB1.htm I am to use the two holes for the rear mount that are closest to the driver side, *NOT* the passenger side. i don't think the rear tranny bracket would've lined up right with that mount if it was in the wrong place.

i think my car must've been in a big accident or something before i bought it that tweaked the frame if the engine is sitting so high and to the right (driver side). i'm just going to angle grind the hell out of the underside of the hood and the driver frame rail and cross my fingers that that works.

 

I'm sorry to say, it sounds like you car is bent. You should not have the fitting problems you're describing.

brian g

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brian g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm sorry to say, it sounds like you car is bent. You should not have the fitting problems you're describing.

brian g</TD></TR></TABLE>

heh, thanks for confirming that for me. i'm glad i invested in an angle grinder. all problems are solvable with an angle grinder.

i wonder though, i don't have the rear mount bolt all the way through and threaded yet. i don't have air tools and it was a bitch getting a ratchet back up in there, so the bolt is through on one side (passenger) and once everything is hooked up and the car is drivable, i was going to take it to my friend who is a mechanic at the local honda dealership and have him zap it on with an air wrench. could that be my alignment problem?

 

so does anyone have any ideas on the starter issue?

 

is yoru battery good ?
its gotta be a ground because the starter power coems straight from the battery so unless you messed up the wiring so now the key doesnt send power to the starter, it must be a ground. did u get the ground on the front of the tranny ? and the one on the valve cover ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YumVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so does anyone have any ideas on the starter issue?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Check the starter ground/all grounds, and recheck all of your wiring.....

 

where is the starter ground?

 

1. Use a shorter lenght alternator belt. *edit - I just realized you said 'crank' pulley* . Try using a 2nd gen b16 crank pulley, the b17 may be slightly larger but I can not confirm this. Unfortunately, your chassis may be tweaked.

2. Hood clearance issues are very common. The Hasport billet mounts do tend to put the motor a little higher to make sure that the axles are in proper angles. Cutting the inner hood supports off my ZC hood resolved this issue for me. The ZC bulge did help tremendously though. Having an SiR hood will eliminate all hood clearance issues.

3. Grounds, grounds, grounds. You may also want to double check if your main relay is functioning. Check your clutch cut. And see if you're getting power to the ECU.

cheers


Modified by Bluelight at 9:10 PM 9/17/2003


Modified by Bluelight at 10:31 PM 9/25/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my hood is like 3" away from closing. WTH!?! the valve cover seriously sits so high that I don't even think trimming the webbing under the hood will make much of a difference. will an SiR hood clear the b17?
</TD></TR></TABLE> if no one has addressed this issue, there are 2 kinds of B series mount kits from hasport the B18 kit and the B16 kit.
the B18 kit will sit a b18 motor in the bay low enough to clear the closing of the hood. the b18's block is taller then the B16, and im assuming the B17 has this design as well. you may have the B16 mount kit. where this kit will sit the motor higher up in the bay, and cause the hood not to close. some people do this kit on purpose because they dont want the engine to get damaged from bottoming out on certain surfaces, and they buy an aftermarket hood to remedy the hood clearance.

hope that wasn't confusing
good luck

 

Um I never heard of such a ******* thing, my friend has had a GSR and an LS and b16 on all the same mounts and they all sat fine. Hasport I believe doesn't make a kit for each diff motor.

 

VtecBoy, sounds like car is more messed up then you and I originaly thought and the whole front end has been tweaked to no retern. You can angle grind all you want. But keep in mind you just weakening the whole front every cut you make.

You have your new digi came. Bust it out and take some pics you newbie.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">VtecBoy, sounds like car is more messed up then you and I originaly thought and the whole front end has been tweaked to no retern. You can angle grind all you want. But keep in mind you just weakening the whole front every cut you make.

You have your new digi came. Bust it out and take some pics you newbie.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i will kill you Bryant. j/k

instead of me snapping pics for your sorry ***, why don't you just come down and check things out for yourself?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YumVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what's your surprise then?

</TD></TR></TABLE>
The surprise is...............
Way,way of topic..............(but, it is B17 related, LOL)
..... I just picked up a B17 powered Milano Red '92 GS-R, today.
Any more progress on the mount issues? I guess I was wrong on the mount holes, huh? And is the neg batt. cable getting good ground where it bolts to the frame rail? I had that problem with one of my CRX's No power, no click nothing. Try replacing the neg batt. cable. It worked for me.

 

does the b17 crank pully come with a place for a power steering belt? my b16a did, and i had i bit of clearance problems so we took a cut off wheel and cut the outide rim (power steering section) off the crank pully. And it fit fine, no hammering or anything. been runnin it for about a year w/ no problems

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90civichbsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does the b17 crank pully come with a place for a power steering belt? my b16a did, </TD></TR></TABLE>
My B17 does. I assume they all do.
If I remember correctly, I heard here, or read somewhere, Honda makes a smaller pulley without the drive for the p/s pump. That is a direct replacement, not sure though. Maybe look into that possibility.

 

1) Sounds like the front end is tweaked. That would be why u have alignment problems.

2) About the starter just making a clicking noise.....when i did my B17 swap it did the exact same thing!!!! I had all my grounds in place just like with the previous motor. What i did to get the starter to crank over was have my dad hold the key in the start position while banged on the starter with the butt of a hammer and it would crank. I had the starter tested and it too came out fine, but i opted to buy a new one anyways since it would only crank the motor after i banged on it. Well, to my surprise the new starter didn't solve anything! However the problem wasnt as frequent and it would crank my motor over 50% of the time i turned the key. Well after breaking my pedal cluster and having to replace it, i decided to bypass the neutral safety switch (switch that keeps the car from starting when the clutch is not pressed in). What do u know, that fixed my problem! Car now cranks over immediately after u turn the key. BTW, my car with the old SOHC would start perfectly every time!! Try bypassing the neutral safety switch....it worked for me!

 

it runs!!!! i started the motor for the first time, all i had to do was tighten the grounds and go over the connections on the starter and make sure everything was tightened. no codes even with my obd1 conversion. SWEET!!! the crank pulley made a huge ruckus of sound as it rubbed against the frame rail, but it wore stuff down so it's fine now i guess. i have *SO* little clearance. i think i might get an EK9 N1 Crank Pulley, but that would suck since i want to eventually put AC back in after i'm turbo and the slight power loss doesn't matter. i'll angle grind the frame tomorrow as a temporary solution.

k, here's my next issue: *HOW THE HELL DO I GET THE CLUTCH CABLES REMOVED FROM BOTH MY CIVIC AND MY WRECKED 92 GS-R???*

i have them disconnected at the pedal, but i can't pull them through the firewall into the engine bay because there is some sort of bracket on the side of the cable that's inside the car. i can't find anything in the service manual or anywhere explaining what to do. pissing me off.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YumVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it runs!!!! i started the motor for the first time, all i had to do was tighten the grounds and go over the connections on the starter and make sure everything was tightened. no codes even with my obd1 conversion. SWEET!!! the crank pulley made a huge ruckus of sound as it rubbed against the frame rail, but it wore stuff down so it's fine now i guess. i have *SO* little clearance. i think i might get an EK9 N1 Crank Pulley, but that would suck since i want to eventually put AC back in after i'm turbo and the slight power loss doesn't matter. i'll angle grind the frame tomorrow as a temporary solution.

k, here's my next issue: *HOW THE HELL DO I GET THE CLUTCH CABLES REMOVED FROM BOTH MY CIVIC AND MY WRECKED 92 GS-R???*

i have them disconnected at the pedal, but i can't pull them through the firewall into the engine bay because there is some sort of bracket on the side of the cable that's inside the car. i can't find anything in the service manual or anywhere explaining what to do. pissing me off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Me next,me next
Good Job, happy for ya' man.

 

did you let the adjust on the tranny all the way out?