all the DOHC B-series all motors running 220ish WHP seem to be hotting 12's or dam near close. then again ive seen the same motors running FI with 250+ WHP and running 13's and even 14's!! whats really going on! im guessing it has to do with powerbands and traction... enlighten me!

 

quite a few of the turbo`d b-series that you`d think would be fast simply have owners that can`t drive them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecvoodoo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">quite a few of the turbo`d b-series that you`d think would be fast simply have owners that can`t drive them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

very true

 

one important word

TRACTION

500whp is great, but on the street on street tires its a different story

 

Constant power, reliable, always the same, good curve, no sudden surprises.....

 

takes a lot less than 220whp all motor to hit 12s. But if you notice, trap speeds are usually lower in NA cars. but the post above by advan pretty much covers it

 

A lot of it has to do with the size of the turbo. If the turbo guy has a setup capable of 300 WHP but has it to 220 for the street or something, then he will be slower than someone NA w/220 WHP. But, if the same person had a turbo that was only capable of efficiently making 220 WHP, he would have power throughout the whole powerband, like an NA car. He would also probably have more tq than the NA motor. Basically what I'm trying to say is, most people, not all, don't properly size turbos when building a car. That, and traction can be a big problem when running high HP. Someone please correct me if I'm all wrong here, I'd like to know so I don't keep making an *** of myself

 

well im planning on force feeding the gsr. rev hard 2 is what im going for. does this seem like a good choice? any suggestions and opinions are welcome!

i gotta give it to b series all motors.. there sick! i once was going to do that but fell to the darkside... actually heres my setup: dc jdm 4-1, apexi intake, 2.5 cat, apex n1, clutch and act flywheel. should i keep goin all motor or just get quick HP??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JunIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well im planning on force feeding the gsr. rev hard 2 is what im going for. does this seem like a good choice? any suggestions and opinions are welcome!
ask that in the FI forum
i gotta give it to b series all motors.. there sick! i once was going to do that but fell to the darkside... actually heres my setup: dc jdm 4-1, apexi intake, 2.5 cat, apex n1, clutch and act flywheel. should i keep goin all motor or just get quick HP??
sounds like you've pretty much made up your mind. How fast do you want to go, and how deep are your pockets? Can't say that I'd blame you for going FI... NA is scary cool </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

NA is Quick
FI is Fast

Quick = Low ET
Fast = High MPH

To get a hatch into the 11s on motor takes like 215whp.
To get a hatch into the 11's on boost takes like 350whp.

All-Motor is just great. Push the pedal down, get power. Not like on boost where you push the pedal down, wait for spool, spool, then spin tire, then shift, spin more tire, finally grip, accelerate...NA is direct, smooth, straight power band. I can't stand driving a laggy turbo car in traffic.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by azcslef &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A lot of it has to do with the size of the turbo. If the turbo guy has a setup capable of 300 WHP but has it to 220 for the street or something, then he will be slower than someone NA w/220 WHP. But, if the same person had a turbo that was only capable of efficiently making 220 WHP, he would have power throughout the whole powerband, like an NA car. He would also probably have more tq than the NA motor. Basically what I'm trying to say is, most people, not all, don't properly size turbos when building a car. That, and traction can be a big problem when running high HP. Someone please correct me if I'm all wrong here, I'd like to know so I don't keep making an *** of myself </TD></TR></TABLE>

too small a turbo and too much tq down low will just hurt your traction and most likely yo top end

 

I'm not saying use too small of a turbo, us a properly sized one for your needs/wants. Yes, if you have gobs of tq down low because of quick spool up, you may have traction problems, but once you can control them you will be very fast. Also, if you get a turbo that can run efficiently at your boost level all the way to redline, it won't do anything but help up top. Running a turbo setup is all about using the properly sized parts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by black sohc civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">one important word

TRACTION

500whp is great, but on the street on street tires its a different story</TD></TR></TABLE>


He said it best, power is nothing without control.


But race a turbo car from a roll and say, bye bye.

 

but why do turbo track cars need to make around 4-500 hp to do 10's(guessing) and N/A track cars do 10's with less than 300hp?

 

Linear power band vs. Peaky and instant power. That is the difference between NA and boost.

 

well see ive got about 6000 to spend and these were the plans:
rev hard 2-$2700
JIC FLT-A2-$1500
Whiteline rear sway-$190
Volk GTN's gold-$1800

if i went all motor what kinda stuff should i get to get into the 12's or low 13's?
i definatly wanna get the JIC coilovers either way..

 

$4500 for all motor:

hondata
skunk2 stage 2
pnp and mill
skunk2 intake manifold
440cc injectors
hondata gasket
65mm tb or larger
good header

 

dude here is a combination that I did it my self I talk to my boys about it and they say it should be runing in the 12,s in my boys gsr:
1)skunk2 intake manifold port & polish
2)skunk2 stage2 cams
3)skunk2 valve spring with titanium retainers
4) spoon valve or skunk2
5)spoon sport kit replate (stroker kit)
6)spoon oil pump
7)titsunabi exhaust
8)jun header
9)jun computer stage2
10)msd 6 digital
11)spoon transmition
12)exedy stage3 clucth
13)act flywheel or comptech
and much more I have to go now

 

Higher whp turbo cars have a lot of traction problems...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Linear power band vs. Peaky and instant power. That is the difference between NA and boost.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is this true, or is this speculation? Where can I read up on this? How do you know?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilverEk3dr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Is this true, or is this speculation? Where can I read up on this? How do you know?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Look at dyno sheets of Turbo motors versus NA motors. NA motors almost always have linear power/torque curves (properly tuned anyway). Turbo motors are somewhat laggy at times and the have a huge surge when boost kicks in and a similar torque curve as well.

 

well my only goal with the turbo kit is to make around 250-270 whp @ 7psi. its only on stock internals so thats all i wanna push. it shouldnt be too laggy or peaky. im not looking for the 400 whp, 20 psi, full boost @ 5500 drag car. just a killer street car wth good spool. does this sound reasonable for good times @ the strip and road races?

 

What turbo will be used for the 7 PSi?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PAPOBMX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude here is a combination that I did it my self I talk to my boys about it and they say it should be runing in the 12,s in my boys gsr:
1)skunk2 intake manifold port & polish
2)skunk2 stage2 cams
3)skunk2 valve spring with titanium retainers
4) spoon valve or skunk2
5)spoon sport kit replate (stroker kit)
6)spoon oil pump
7)titsunabi exhaust
8)jun header
9)jun computer stage2
10)msd 6 digital
11)spoon transmition
12)exedy stage3 clucth
13)act flywheel or comptech
and much more I have to go now</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think 6 out of 13 products on that list actually exist. The rest are a figment of your imagination or your confused. Regardless, that's not a good way to make power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MaxBoost &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think 6 out of 13 products on that list actually exist. The rest are a figment of your imagination or your confused. Regardless, that's not a good way to make power.</TD></TR></TABLE>

-LOL.. spoon replate??? LMAO!

Oh and the turbo kit i wanna run is the rev hard stage 2 with t3/t04e