Brake upgrade recommandation
I am looking to upgrade my brakes on my integra. It's going to be primarily used on the road, so I don't want to spend lots of money on Big brake kits, probably just some OEM replacement rotors and pads. Currently I am looking at the Brembo drilled OEM rotors. Does anyone have any experience with them? Are they worth the money? For the pads, I still don't have much experience with them. I have seen Axxis/PBR and APEX. What kind do you guys recommand. Thanks.
I also want to know if it's worth it to upgrade my rear brakes as most of the braking is done up in the front. Does anyone know how much braking is done by the rear brakes in integra?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by variable_x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am looking to upgrade my brakes on my integra. It's going to be primarily used on the road, so I don't want to spend lots of money on Big brake kits, probably just some OEM replacement rotors and pads. Currently I am looking at the Brembo drilled OEM rotors. Does anyone have any experience with them? Are they worth the money? For the pads, I still don't have much experience with them. I have seen Axxis/PBR and APEX. What kind do you guys recommand. Thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I definitely would NOT get drilled brakes, since this increases the probability of cracking, even when the holes are cast in. Slotting is better, but it eats pads faster. Both aren't necessary for the street. Brembos are good, but Andie from Cobalt has rotors that are supposed to be better. I have some, but time will tell.
Axxis Ultimates are the kind of pads I'd get. Carbotech makes the Bobcat, which are better, but kinda new and possibly prone to being noisy. Porterfield R4S wore out quickly up front and hot spotted my rotors. EBC suck ***. I run Ferodo DS2500 now.
I definitely would NOT get drilled brakes, since this increases the probability of cracking, even when the holes are cast in. Slotting is better, but it eats pads faster. Both aren't necessary for the street. Brembos are good, but Andie from Cobalt has rotors that are supposed to be better. I have some, but time will tell.
Axxis Ultimates are the kind of pads I'd get. Carbotech makes the Bobcat, which are better, but kinda new and possibly prone to being noisy. Porterfield R4S wore out quickly up front and hot spotted my rotors. EBC suck ***. I run Ferodo DS2500 now.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by variable_x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also want to know if it's worth it to upgrade my rear brakes as most of the braking is done up in the front. Does anyone know how much braking is done by the rear brakes in integra?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You should put better pads on. This also helps decrease wear on front pads by shifting the balance rearward. A good big brake kit (with ABS in mind) will actually shift the balance rearward some by exerting less brake torque in front by sizing the pistons accordingly. This leaves the larger rotor to act as a heat sink, rather than a bigger lever arm. This doesn't apply to racing (or other non-ABS applications), where it is crucial to not lock rear brakes.
70-80% of braking is done up front. Obviously, it isn't worth putting slotted rotors in back.
You should put better pads on. This also helps decrease wear on front pads by shifting the balance rearward. A good big brake kit (with ABS in mind) will actually shift the balance rearward some by exerting less brake torque in front by sizing the pistons accordingly. This leaves the larger rotor to act as a heat sink, rather than a bigger lever arm. This doesn't apply to racing (or other non-ABS applications), where it is crucial to not lock rear brakes.
70-80% of braking is done up front. Obviously, it isn't worth putting slotted rotors in back.
i just finished my bremb blank and axis metal master change... serves me well....
I had to persuade my buddy, that he did not need to go x-drilled or slotted in his daily driver. ( and even for most of us that do the occasional track day, our brakes never heat up that high). All you really nead to do is pay very close attention to the bleeding process... that is hit or miss, a great bleeding job can make your brakes work and feel soo much better.
I had to persuade my buddy, that he did not need to go x-drilled or slotted in his daily driver. ( and even for most of us that do the occasional track day, our brakes never heat up that high). All you really nead to do is pay very close attention to the bleeding process... that is hit or miss, a great bleeding job can make your brakes work and feel soo much better.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by variable_x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How much of a diffference will it make by upgrading to stainless steel brake lines. Is my brake paddle feel considerable stiffer?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I doubt it would make much difference in stopping performance, but would help feel at the potential cost of a failed line, since grit can get under the steel braiding and wear the teflon inner line. Inspect ever 3-6 months.
Honda has stiff lines to begin with, so doing/buying tweakmeister's DIY MC brace would be a better idea. I have one and it helps a bit on feel w/o deforming the inner fender.
I forgot to mention that the integra has organic compound rear pads as OEM, usually a big
.
I doubt it would make much difference in stopping performance, but would help feel at the potential cost of a failed line, since grit can get under the steel braiding and wear the teflon inner line. Inspect ever 3-6 months.
Honda has stiff lines to begin with, so doing/buying tweakmeister's DIY MC brace would be a better idea. I have one and it helps a bit on feel w/o deforming the inner fender.
I forgot to mention that the integra has organic compound rear pads as OEM, usually a big
.
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