Putting on new rotors, how much/what kind of a break-in is needed?
I had planned on putting on some new rotors tomorrow but there is an autocross on Sunday so I'm wondering if I'll have enough mileage on them to autocross. What do you guys think? Should I wait until I have more miles to beat on them? Also I searched and found a lot of break-in procedures for pads/rotors what would you guys recommend. Thanks guys
Can't wait till Sunday cause I getta do this (no not cut the end of my car off in photos, Autocross!).
INSERT BONUS AUTOCROSS PICS HERE
Nice pic of Ferrell's car from the same autocross, mountains make for a nice backdrop
Can't wait till Sunday cause I getta do this (no not cut the end of my car off in photos, Autocross!).
INSERT BONUS AUTOCROSS PICS HERE
Nice pic of Ferrell's car from the same autocross, mountains make for a nice backdrop

http://www.baer.com/Support/Te...pID=4
Follow their procedure for seasoning the rotor.
Read about rotor problems and the myths of warping here:
http://stoptech.com/whitepaper...h.htm
I just seasoned my rotors the other night and will be bedding in new pads again shortly so this is all very fresh in my mind.
Good luck
PS there may be a few who will say "just put 'em on and beat on 'em in no particular order" but, I've had experiences otherwise that I will be more than happy to share if the topic requires. Suffice to say that the Baer description of the process is accurate and pretty much the standard. As well, it never hurts to be more careful and avoid any problems just promote longer life and better wear characteristics.
Follow their procedure for seasoning the rotor.
Read about rotor problems and the myths of warping here:
http://stoptech.com/whitepaper...h.htm
I just seasoned my rotors the other night and will be bedding in new pads again shortly so this is all very fresh in my mind.
Good luck
PS there may be a few who will say "just put 'em on and beat on 'em in no particular order" but, I've had experiences otherwise that I will be more than happy to share if the topic requires. Suffice to say that the Baer description of the process is accurate and pretty much the standard. As well, it never hurts to be more careful and avoid any problems just promote longer life and better wear characteristics.
Great info, thank you very much
Guess I'll wait until after the autocross to put them on. Pretty bad when I'm worried about warping $20/piece Autozone rotors.
< Major cheapskate
Guess I'll wait until after the autocross to put them on. Pretty bad when I'm worried about warping $20/piece Autozone rotors.
< Major cheapskate
there is a definite need to break in pads properly, but i've never seen a need to break in the rotors. also, autox isn't particularly abusive because you never build up and sustain high heat levels like track time. i say toss 'em on there and drive around a bit to get some pad material embedded onto the rotor faces.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.baer.com/Support/Te...pID=4
Follow their procedure for seasoning the rotor.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where do you guys find the place to follow these procedures? Everything around here either has stop lights every couple of miles and the highways are also occupied no matter what time of day. I'm thinking parking garage...
Follow their procedure for seasoning the rotor.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where do you guys find the place to follow these procedures? Everything around here either has stop lights every couple of miles and the highways are also occupied no matter what time of day. I'm thinking parking garage...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CPR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Where do you guys find the place to follow these procedures? Everything around here either has stop lights every couple of miles and the highways are also occupied no matter what time of day. I'm thinking parking garage...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I did it at midnight the other night on a long desolate stretch of rural road.
The freeway or a parkway are an option but, sorta dangerous and if a cop see's you I'm sure there would be questions to answer.
Where do you guys find the place to follow these procedures? Everything around here either has stop lights every couple of miles and the highways are also occupied no matter what time of day. I'm thinking parking garage...
</TD></TR></TABLE>I did it at midnight the other night on a long desolate stretch of rural road.
The freeway or a parkway are an option but, sorta dangerous and if a cop see's you I'm sure there would be questions to answer.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.baer.com/Support/Te...pID=4
Follow their procedure for seasoning the rotor.
Read about rotor problems and the myths of warping here:
http://stoptech.com/whitepaper...h.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmmm. The procedure for bedding pads/rotors (break-in procedure) is usually pretty much the same everywhere. But I have never heard a recommendation for going through it twice, on two separate days, which the Baer site says. I've only heard about the need to do it once, then let them cool overnight (as described in the Stoptech white paper).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by magic hat #9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there is a definite need to break in pads properly, but i've never seen a need to break in the rotors. also, autox isn't particularly abusive because you never build up and sustain high heat levels like track time. i say toss 'em on there and drive around a bit to get some pad material embedded onto the rotor faces.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You obviously haven't read the Stoptech white paper, Mr. Hat.
I suggest you read it. The purpose of bedding pads when you change rotors is not just to get the two surfaces to match, but also to get a nice uniform layer of pad material deposited on the surface of the rotor, which will avoid the shudder problems described in the white paper. To do this you need to follow the bedding procedure, including letting them cool down overnight.
Follow their procedure for seasoning the rotor.
Read about rotor problems and the myths of warping here:
http://stoptech.com/whitepaper...h.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hmmm. The procedure for bedding pads/rotors (break-in procedure) is usually pretty much the same everywhere. But I have never heard a recommendation for going through it twice, on two separate days, which the Baer site says. I've only heard about the need to do it once, then let them cool overnight (as described in the Stoptech white paper).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by magic hat #9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there is a definite need to break in pads properly, but i've never seen a need to break in the rotors. also, autox isn't particularly abusive because you never build up and sustain high heat levels like track time. i say toss 'em on there and drive around a bit to get some pad material embedded onto the rotor faces.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You obviously haven't read the Stoptech white paper, Mr. Hat.
I suggest you read it. The purpose of bedding pads when you change rotors is not just to get the two surfaces to match, but also to get a nice uniform layer of pad material deposited on the surface of the rotor, which will avoid the shudder problems described in the white paper. To do this you need to follow the bedding procedure, including letting them cool down overnight.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Hmmm. The procedure for bedding pads/rotors (break-in procedure) is usually pretty much the same everywhere. But I have never heard a recommendation for going through it twice, on two separate days, which the Baer site says. I've only heard about the need to do it once, then let them cool overnight (as described in the Stoptech white paper).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The concept of the 2 step according to Baer is to reassure of the stress relief and promote better wear. I personally have experienced poor wear and vibration that was most likely a combination of Not Seasoning the rotor and combining agressive pads prematurely.
"The first step in preparing the brake system for duty is to “SEASON” the rotors. The most visible effects are that of burning the machine oils from the surface of the iron and establishing a wear pattern between the pad and rotor. The most complex task it performs is that of relieving the internal stresses within the material. If you’ve ever poured water into a glass of ice, and noticed the ice cracking, then you’ve witnessed, first hand, the effects of internal stresses. The rotor casting and cooling processes leave the rotor with internal stresses."
I too have read and seen many descriptions & even experienced several "word of mouth" that combine the bedding of pads with seasoning the rotors.
My take on it is that you can never be too careful especially when driving at high speeds on road courses.
I personally modified their rotor seasoning process by adding the bedding in of the new pads to the second day part. But, followed the first day to second as reassurance that the stresses would be minimized a bit more than just bedding and seasoning at the same time, (hopefully that is a technically correct and clear statement.)
Not here to agrue a point or promote anything in particular with the hope of any particular gains other than to have my car prepared for the rigors and abuse that I put it through.
Oh, and the rotors I just Seasoned are the Autozone cheapies as well. Better to be safe than sorry is my only thought and or concern. My last expereince with brake fade and severe vibration may very well have been solved beforehand if I had followed a few more careful points as listed on the Baer site.
Hmmm. The procedure for bedding pads/rotors (break-in procedure) is usually pretty much the same everywhere. But I have never heard a recommendation for going through it twice, on two separate days, which the Baer site says. I've only heard about the need to do it once, then let them cool overnight (as described in the Stoptech white paper).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The concept of the 2 step according to Baer is to reassure of the stress relief and promote better wear. I personally have experienced poor wear and vibration that was most likely a combination of Not Seasoning the rotor and combining agressive pads prematurely.
"The first step in preparing the brake system for duty is to “SEASON” the rotors. The most visible effects are that of burning the machine oils from the surface of the iron and establishing a wear pattern between the pad and rotor. The most complex task it performs is that of relieving the internal stresses within the material. If you’ve ever poured water into a glass of ice, and noticed the ice cracking, then you’ve witnessed, first hand, the effects of internal stresses. The rotor casting and cooling processes leave the rotor with internal stresses."
I too have read and seen many descriptions & even experienced several "word of mouth" that combine the bedding of pads with seasoning the rotors.
My take on it is that you can never be too careful especially when driving at high speeds on road courses.
I personally modified their rotor seasoning process by adding the bedding in of the new pads to the second day part. But, followed the first day to second as reassurance that the stresses would be minimized a bit more than just bedding and seasoning at the same time, (hopefully that is a technically correct and clear statement.)
Not here to agrue a point or promote anything in particular with the hope of any particular gains other than to have my car prepared for the rigors and abuse that I put it through.
Oh, and the rotors I just Seasoned are the Autozone cheapies as well. Better to be safe than sorry is my only thought and or concern. My last expereince with brake fade and severe vibration may very well have been solved beforehand if I had followed a few more careful points as listed on the Baer site.
Yes, I thought it was very interesting that Baer talks about the bedding procedure only in terms of the internal stress on the rotor, whereas Stoptech (and most other authorities I've heard) recommend it primarily for purposes of establishing a uniform layer of pad deposit on the rotor surface, rather than for internal stress. Which is correct? I don't know, but if the procedure is the same either way, it doesn't really matter.
Is the second day's bedding procedure necessary? It can't hurt, I suppose... but that doesn't mean that it necessarily makes a difference, either.
Is the second day's bedding procedure necessary? It can't hurt, I suppose... but that doesn't mean that it necessarily makes a difference, either.
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