Swap finished, Idle jumping up/down, no CEL.
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From: Gaitneau, Qc, Canada
Swap finished, Idle jumping up/down, no CEL.
Here is the thing.
99 B18C1 with ITR tranny in 96 EK using 96 SOHC Vtec harness and OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness with chipped P28.
Car started right up without a CEL but idle is bouncing between 1700-2000.
All the vaccum hoses are ok, nothing cracked or leaking.
Disconnected the IACV, threw a code and idled between 1500-1600(engine is still cold)
Reset ECU, replug IACV and same thing, 1700-2000rpms idle.
Engine rev real nice when giving it some gaz, does not stutter, bog or whatever.
I cant let it warm up yet since exhaust is not connected to manifold and I'd like to keep my neighbour happy at night... Will do tomorrow to see what happens.
Anywhere I should start looking tomorrow?
Thanks alot for your help!!!!
99 B18C1 with ITR tranny in 96 EK using 96 SOHC Vtec harness and OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness with chipped P28.
Car started right up without a CEL but idle is bouncing between 1700-2000.
All the vaccum hoses are ok, nothing cracked or leaking.
Disconnected the IACV, threw a code and idled between 1500-1600(engine is still cold)
Reset ECU, replug IACV and same thing, 1700-2000rpms idle.
Engine rev real nice when giving it some gaz, does not stutter, bog or whatever.
I cant let it warm up yet since exhaust is not connected to manifold and I'd like to keep my neighbour happy at night... Will do tomorrow to see what happens.
Anywhere I should start looking tomorrow?
Thanks alot for your help!!!!
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 6,919
Likes: 5
From: In the garage
Re: Swap finished, Idle jumping up/down, no CEL. (Skyllz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skyllz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is the thing.
99 B18C1 with ITR tranny in 96 EK using 96 SOHC Vtec harness and OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness with chipped P28.
Car started right up without a CEL but idle is bouncing between 1700-2000.
All the vaccum hoses are ok, nothing cracked or leaking.
Disconnected the IACV, threw a code and idled between 1500-1600(engine is still cold)
Reset ECU, replug IACV and same thing, 1700-2000rpms idle.
Engine rev real nice when giving it some gaz, does not stutter, bog or whatever.
I cant let it warm up yet since exhaust is not connected to manifold and I'd like to keep my neighbour happy at night... Will do tomorrow to see what happens.
Anywhere I should start looking tomorrow?
Thanks alot for your help!!!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Here is what I would do to begin with.
First you are going to need to allow the car to warm up completely. Make sure you have bled all the air out of the coolant. If this checks out good then disconnect the IACV. Idle should drop around 400rpms (low). If it doesn't, set it to this point and plug the IACV back in. Turn the car off and then back on. It should idle correctly now with no codes. If it doesn't then I would pull the IACV and clean it up real well. Make sure you have a good tight seal also with no leaks. If after doing all the above you still have an issue then I would say check again for vac leaks.
99 B18C1 with ITR tranny in 96 EK using 96 SOHC Vtec harness and OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness with chipped P28.
Car started right up without a CEL but idle is bouncing between 1700-2000.
All the vaccum hoses are ok, nothing cracked or leaking.
Disconnected the IACV, threw a code and idled between 1500-1600(engine is still cold)
Reset ECU, replug IACV and same thing, 1700-2000rpms idle.
Engine rev real nice when giving it some gaz, does not stutter, bog or whatever.
I cant let it warm up yet since exhaust is not connected to manifold and I'd like to keep my neighbour happy at night... Will do tomorrow to see what happens.
Anywhere I should start looking tomorrow?
Thanks alot for your help!!!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Here is what I would do to begin with.
First you are going to need to allow the car to warm up completely. Make sure you have bled all the air out of the coolant. If this checks out good then disconnect the IACV. Idle should drop around 400rpms (low). If it doesn't, set it to this point and plug the IACV back in. Turn the car off and then back on. It should idle correctly now with no codes. If it doesn't then I would pull the IACV and clean it up real well. Make sure you have a good tight seal also with no leaks. If after doing all the above you still have an issue then I would say check again for vac leaks.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Gaitneau, Qc, Canada
Sounds like a plan, thanks for the advise!!!
Anybody else got ideas to get me going tomorrow?
The more input I have, the less i'll have to come back top post that it still does not work
Anybody else got ideas to get me going tomorrow?
The more input I have, the less i'll have to come back top post that it still does not work
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 6,919
Likes: 5
From: In the garage
Re: (Skyllz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skyllz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like a plan, thanks for the advise!!!
Anybody else got ideas to get me going tomorrow?
The more input I have, the less i'll have to come back top post that it still does not work</TD></TR></TABLE>
The above SHOULD cover it. The only other thing that worries me is your "chipped" ecu. Its not real likely, but this could also cause idle problems as well. Make sure your IACV is correctly plumbed to the coolant supply/return lines its intended for as well. I had mine run incorrectly and it drove me up a tree for months until I just figured it out.
Anybody else got ideas to get me going tomorrow?
The more input I have, the less i'll have to come back top post that it still does not work
</TD></TR></TABLE>The above SHOULD cover it. The only other thing that worries me is your "chipped" ecu. Its not real likely, but this could also cause idle problems as well. Make sure your IACV is correctly plumbed to the coolant supply/return lines its intended for as well. I had mine run incorrectly and it drove me up a tree for months until I just figured it out.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 121
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From: Gaitneau, Qc, Canada
update...
Did everything mentionned above, reset the ECU, still same problem but with a twist...
When the IACV is plugged, it will jump 500rpms up and down...
When I unplug it, it'll jump faster about 200rpms.
I tripple checked all hoses and vaccum but could not find anything...
Only thing I have not tried is another ECU but I know this one was working last week in a B16A 95 Civic Si.
Did everything mentionned above, reset the ECU, still same problem but with a twist...
When the IACV is plugged, it will jump 500rpms up and down...
When I unplug it, it'll jump faster about 200rpms.
I tripple checked all hoses and vaccum but could not find anything...
Only thing I have not tried is another ECU but I know this one was working last week in a B16A 95 Civic Si.
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,103
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From: sixsixone, ca, 93311
Re: (Skyllz)
i'm having the same problem with my ctr swap in a 96 ek. what i want to know is how to bleed the coolant system because it doesn't have the neck with the valve sticking out of the head like the ls motor i was used to.
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Honda-Tech Member
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From: In the garage
Re: (ghettols)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ghettols »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm having the same problem with my ctr swap in a 96 ek. what i want to know is how to bleed the coolant system because it doesn't have the neck with the valve sticking out of the head like the ls motor i was used to.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Some of the engines won't have the bleeder screw.
Some of the engines won't have the bleeder screw.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 6,919
Likes: 5
From: In the garage
Re: (Skyllz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skyllz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">update...
Did everything mentionned above, reset the ECU, still same problem but with a twist...
When the IACV is plugged, it will jump 500rpms up and down...
When I unplug it, it'll jump faster about 200rpms.
I tripple checked all hoses and vaccum but could not find anything...
Only thing I have not tried is another ECU but I know this one was working last week in a B16A 95 Civic Si.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What ECU is it? A stock Civic Si ecu is a P28, and unless its chipped, it should not be on a DOHC engine. Did you drop the engine in as a complete swap? Change any parts such as the intake manifold?
Did everything mentionned above, reset the ECU, still same problem but with a twist...
When the IACV is plugged, it will jump 500rpms up and down...
When I unplug it, it'll jump faster about 200rpms.
I tripple checked all hoses and vaccum but could not find anything...
Only thing I have not tried is another ECU but I know this one was working last week in a B16A 95 Civic Si.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What ECU is it? A stock Civic Si ecu is a P28, and unless its chipped, it should not be on a DOHC engine. Did you drop the engine in as a complete swap? Change any parts such as the intake manifold?
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Joined: Sep 2001
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From: sixsixone, ca, 93311
Re: (Hybrid93Eg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Some of the engines won't have the bleeder screw.</TD></TR></TABLE>
how would you go about bleeding then?
Some of the engines won't have the bleeder screw.</TD></TR></TABLE>
how would you go about bleeding then?
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 6,919
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From: In the garage
Re: (ghettols)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ghettols »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how would you go about bleeding then?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Put the cap on to the first locking position, run the car until it reaches operating temperature and the fan comes on twice, shut the car off and check the level.
how would you go about bleeding then?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Put the cap on to the first locking position, run the car until it reaches operating temperature and the fan comes on twice, shut the car off and check the level.
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Gaitneau, Qc, Canada
Re: (Hybrid93Eg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What ECU is it? A stock Civic Si ecu is a P28, and unless its chipped, it should not be on a DOHC engine. Did you drop the engine in as a complete swap? Change any parts such as the intake manifold?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No parts have been removed except for the TB and I changed the gasket.
The ECU is chipped and running a P30 program(meant for a p28 but P30 fuel maps) and I tried it in another car today, working A1.
After driving the car a little today, it's getting intermitent now, sometimes it'll go down to 1000 and stay there, other times it'll go between 1000-1500rpms...
Oh well, i'll leave it like that until I feel like fudging with it, now I want to enjoy my car
What ECU is it? A stock Civic Si ecu is a P28, and unless its chipped, it should not be on a DOHC engine. Did you drop the engine in as a complete swap? Change any parts such as the intake manifold?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No parts have been removed except for the TB and I changed the gasket.
The ECU is chipped and running a P30 program(meant for a p28 but P30 fuel maps) and I tried it in another car today, working A1.
After driving the car a little today, it's getting intermitent now, sometimes it'll go down to 1000 and stay there, other times it'll go between 1000-1500rpms...
Oh well, i'll leave it like that until I feel like fudging with it, now I want to enjoy my car
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,189
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From: Bloomington, Indiana, USA
Re: (Skyllz)
i've had similar problems with my h22 swapped accord...but i was wondering if this would have anything to do with an auto ecu on a 5 speed...someone mentioned this a while back...but i will give that IACV a try and see if it checks out as well...
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From: Jacksonville, FL, United States
Re: Swap finished, Idle jumping up/down, no CEL. (Hybrid93Eg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Here is what I would do to begin with.
First you are going to need to allow the car to warm up completely. Make sure you have bled all the air out of the coolant. If this checks out good then disconnect the IACV. Idle should drop around 400rpms (low). If it doesn't, set it to this point and plug the IACV back in. Turn the car off and then back on. It should idle correctly now with no codes. If it doesn't then I would pull the IACV and clean it up real well. Make sure you have a good tight seal also with no leaks. If after doing all the above you still have an issue then I would say check again for vac leaks.</TD></TR></TABLE>-/
-/
i'm intrigued about the coolant thing...........if there is air in the cooling system the IACV will not function properly? please go into a little more detail
Here is what I would do to begin with.
First you are going to need to allow the car to warm up completely. Make sure you have bled all the air out of the coolant. If this checks out good then disconnect the IACV. Idle should drop around 400rpms (low). If it doesn't, set it to this point and plug the IACV back in. Turn the car off and then back on. It should idle correctly now with no codes. If it doesn't then I would pull the IACV and clean it up real well. Make sure you have a good tight seal also with no leaks. If after doing all the above you still have an issue then I would say check again for vac leaks.</TD></TR></TABLE>-/
-/
i'm intrigued about the coolant thing...........if there is air in the cooling system the IACV will not function properly? please go into a little more detail
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 6,919
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From: In the garage
Re: Swap finished, Idle jumping up/down, no CEL. (AK1200)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AK1200 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-/
-/
i'm intrigued about the coolant thing...........if there is air in the cooling system the IACV will not function properly? please go into a little more detail </TD></TR></TABLE>
Air = hotter then then coolant. So if air is trapped in the system and it hits the valve then it will cause it to close even more then it already is. Takes only a second for the air to pass, unless the bubbles get caught, so it can't cause your idle to go up and down.
-/
i'm intrigued about the coolant thing...........if there is air in the cooling system the IACV will not function properly? please go into a little more detail
</TD></TR></TABLE>Air = hotter then then coolant. So if air is trapped in the system and it hits the valve then it will cause it to close even more then it already is. Takes only a second for the air to pass, unless the bubbles get caught, so it can't cause your idle to go up and down.
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Gaitneau, Qc, Canada
Re: (ghettols)
Ok... still doing it and it's starting to bug me BAD...
What i've done so far...
-purge system to make sure there are NO bubbles anywhere.
-looked for vaccum leaks...
-switch ECU with a known good one
-looked for vaccum leaks...
-readjust idle as per manuals, cant get it to idle lower then 1100 even with idle srew fully in...
-looked for vaccum leaks...
-when I unplug the IACV idle goes to 1100 and purrs like a kitten
-looked for vaccum leaks...
-Did I mention I looked everywhere I could for vaccum leaks?
-Nothing except the TB and the IACV has been tampered with on the intake.
-the TB gasket is new
-the IACV o-ring is ok, I added a slight coating of sillicone to make sure.
-All ground are excellent(1 on head, 1 on tranny, 1 on intake manifold)
-Still no CEL except when I unplg the IACV.
-Remove T-fitting from manifold to FPR and IAB, now only 1 tube straight to FPR.
-Cursed alot...
Anything else I forgot?
Next step is to try another IACV(found one tonight) otherwise I'm clueless... BAD...
Any other vaccum nipples on a GSR manifold except lower driver side where FPR/IAB connect, behind where brake booster connect and close the the TB flange poiting to the firewall...
HELP...
Thanks
What i've done so far...
-purge system to make sure there are NO bubbles anywhere.
-looked for vaccum leaks...
-switch ECU with a known good one
-looked for vaccum leaks...
-readjust idle as per manuals, cant get it to idle lower then 1100 even with idle srew fully in...
-looked for vaccum leaks...
-when I unplug the IACV idle goes to 1100 and purrs like a kitten
-looked for vaccum leaks...
-Did I mention I looked everywhere I could for vaccum leaks?
-Nothing except the TB and the IACV has been tampered with on the intake.
-the TB gasket is new
-the IACV o-ring is ok, I added a slight coating of sillicone to make sure.
-All ground are excellent(1 on head, 1 on tranny, 1 on intake manifold)
-Still no CEL except when I unplg the IACV.
-Remove T-fitting from manifold to FPR and IAB, now only 1 tube straight to FPR.
-Cursed alot...
Anything else I forgot?
Next step is to try another IACV(found one tonight) otherwise I'm clueless... BAD...
Any other vaccum nipples on a GSR manifold except lower driver side where FPR/IAB connect, behind where brake booster connect and close the the TB flange poiting to the firewall...
HELP...
Thanks
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