Can anyone tell me how to test my egr valve? Can I ohm it out, can I hook it up to a power supply, anything?

 

Here how: First, you will need a vacuum pump. If you don't have one, you will not be able to test it. When the engine is at idle, you need to remove the vacuum line going into the EGR. You then hook up your vacuum pump hose to the EGR valve. Then with the vacuum pump, you can operate the EGR. When vacuum is applied, the EGR valve should open, and your engine should stumble a little bit, or may even die if you apply too much vacuum.

By the way, why keep the EGR? For emissions reasons, great, but for performance, get rid of it. You are simply sending exhaust gases back into the intake plenum. Bad idea. Have you ever removed your intake plenum to see what exhaust gases do to your intake plenum? Carbon buildup everywhere, mostly in cylinder #4, since that is where the most exhaust gases tend to flow.

Good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93NXLUDE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can anyone tell me how to test my egr valve? Can I ohm it out, can I hook it up to a power supply, anything?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh, and electronically, you can't do much. Since all it does is monitor how much the EGR valve opens, which is controlled by the PCM. Typically, the electronics are OK, just the mechanical part of it goes junk.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CBR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here how: First, you will need a vacuum pump. If you don't have one, you will not be able to test it. When the engine is at idle, you need to remove the vacuum line going into the EGR. You then hook up your vacuum pump hose to the EGR valve. Then with the vacuum pump, you can operate the EGR. When vacuum is applied, the EGR valve should open, and your engine should stumble a little bit, or may even die if you apply too much vacuum.

By the way, why keep the EGR? For emissions reasons, great, but for performance, get rid of it. You are simply sending exhaust gases back into the intake plenum. Bad idea. Have you ever removed your intake plenum to see what exhaust gases do to your intake plenum? Carbon buildup everywhere, mostly in cylinder #4, since that is where the most exhaust gases tend to flow.

Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so, your saying...car would run better without the EGR valve?
my EGR valve is working fine, but the intake manifold so dirty which made the EGR system fail to function. what should i do, leave it as is or take out the IM to clean it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lakerschamp2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so, your saying...car would run better without the EGR valve?
my EGR valve is working fine, but the intake manifold so dirty which made the EGR system fail to function. what should i do, leave it as is or take out the IM to clean it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You might notice a little bit of a performance increase. Remember, EGR was put on the vehicle for emissions reasons. By recirculating exhaust gases back into the combustion chamber, this will aid in "cooling" down the combustion process. Also, it heats up the air, which aids in fuel atomization. All this will lead to less emissions. How does it work? Don't feel like explaining it right now. Unless someone else wants to type.

But heck, I'll take a clean intake plenum over an exhaust fouled one. I wish I would've taken some pics of my exhaust fouled intake plenum. Not only does it foul up the intake plenum, you should also look at the cylinder head intake ports. Those will get all carbon fouled too, especially cylinder #4 since this is the port closest to the EGR valve.

I'm currently looking to see if anyone makes a nice EGR block off plate. If no one makes one, I guess I'll have to custom fabricate one myself, which is quite easy.

If you can live with a check engine light, which comes on during part throttle with a fully warmed up engine, then heck, disable it. The check engine light will simply be an EGR code, which of course, by disconnecting the vacuum line going to it, the PCM detects the EGR valve not opening.

I just don't care too much about recirculating dirty exhaust gases back into my intake. Do what you want, your car. You can always try it out, it won't hurt anything.

 

An easy way to check is to hook up a vaccum line straight off your manifold to the egr valve. This should fully open the valve and at idle your car should bog very heavily and most likely will stall out if the egr is functioning properly.

I am going to make my own egr block off plate soon. It shouldn't be that difficult. I was going to make own out of thin sheet metal and put it between the egr and and the manifold. The best place to put it would probably be between the intake manifold and egr port on the head, that way exhaust gasses don't won't heat up the intake manifold at all. The hondata intake manifold gasket does this as it doesn't have a cut out for the egr port. I had my egr blocked off with the hondata gasket for awhile. I had to cut out the egr port though so that I could pass smog. O well. I'll just block it off again.