Whats a good camber for the track
As mentioned, it really depends on the tires and suspension you use.
Generally speaking, if you're running stiffer springs and R compound tires, -2.5 to -3 degree would be good (assuming you're talking about an ITR).
Generally speaking, if you're running stiffer springs and R compound tires, -2.5 to -3 degree would be good (assuming you're talking about an ITR).
sorry about the lack of info...
i have a 97 gsr, tein ha's , jdm lsd , rear itr lca's, 6 point cage etc..
right now im on some khumos.. ahahaha
not the greatest tire, but this is my weekend car... I want it to handle well, last time i went to the track i had no camber, the front end did not seem to keep itself planted that well.
Tire pressure was at 30 psi,..
i dont know if i should get a camber kit, or just have the alignment shop pressure bend the a-arms to about - 1.5. Thanks for the replies
i have a 97 gsr, tein ha's , jdm lsd , rear itr lca's, 6 point cage etc..
right now im on some khumos.. ahahaha
not the greatest tire, but this is my weekend car... I want it to handle well, last time i went to the track i had no camber, the front end did not seem to keep itself planted that well.
Tire pressure was at 30 psi,..
i dont know if i should get a camber kit, or just have the alignment shop pressure bend the a-arms to about - 1.5. Thanks for the replies
For HA, the spring rates aren't that high so you would have quite a bit of wheel travel in corners, which means that you would gain quite a bit of dynamic camber. I've used Kumhos Victoracer V700 before and the sidewalls aren't that stiff, but with pretty good grip.
If I were you I would still get a camber kit and start with -2 camber to see how it feels. It would be very street friendly and won't kill ur tires if the toe settings are within spec.
If I were you I would still get a camber kit and start with -2 camber to see how it feels. It would be very street friendly and won't kill ur tires if the toe settings are within spec.
what kind of camber kit do you have?
do you think getting the a-arms heated or bent through force is a bad idea?
I was looking into the skunk2 camber kit.. can you adjust the camber yourself, or do you need to take it down to the shop each time..
are the degree's or marked on the camber kit itself? Thanks
do you think getting the a-arms heated or bent through force is a bad idea?
I was looking into the skunk2 camber kit.. can you adjust the camber yourself, or do you need to take it down to the shop each time..
are the degree's or marked on the camber kit itself? Thanks
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vinnie paZ - JMT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of camber kit do you have?
do you think getting the a-arms heated or bent through force is a bad idea?
I was looking into the skunk2 camber kit.. can you adjust the camber yourself, or do you need to take it down to the shop each time..
are the degree's or marked on the camber kit itself? Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
A lot of people on this board use the Skunk2 kit. There's a slipping problem, but if the bolts and washers were replaced, it works great. You can adjust the camber yourself but you would need a camber gauge as there's no marking on the camber kit itself.
Bending the a-arm works, but personally I don't like the idea. Whenever a metal is bent, internal stress builds up and it may crack or bend more when loaded.
do you think getting the a-arms heated or bent through force is a bad idea?
I was looking into the skunk2 camber kit.. can you adjust the camber yourself, or do you need to take it down to the shop each time..
are the degree's or marked on the camber kit itself? Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
A lot of people on this board use the Skunk2 kit. There's a slipping problem, but if the bolts and washers were replaced, it works great. You can adjust the camber yourself but you would need a camber gauge as there's no marking on the camber kit itself.
Bending the a-arm works, but personally I don't like the idea. Whenever a metal is bent, internal stress builds up and it may crack or bend more when loaded.
Wai, thanks for the insight...
I remember my friends a-arm snapped when he caught air one time while hitting a dip in the road..
When people replace the hardware on the skunk2 kit, is that hardware easy to come by? can i find these basic bolts etc at home depot or what not, thanks... wai
I remember my friends a-arm snapped when he caught air one time while hitting a dip in the road..
When people replace the hardware on the skunk2 kit, is that hardware easy to come by? can i find these basic bolts etc at home depot or what not, thanks... wai
Yeah the replacement bolts are very easy to find. I got mine from ACE Hardware. I forgot exactly what the thread size was... (1.5?) Just bring the stock allen bolt with you and you should be able to find a hex-head bolt with the same thread pattern.
Also, get some star-shape locking washers and long enough bolts so that you can fit a nut at the bottom to clamp down the joint.
Also, get some star-shape locking washers and long enough bolts so that you can fit a nut at the bottom to clamp down the joint.
First I think the tire pressure seems alittle low "Tire pressure was at 30 psi,.."
I have been running the Azenis at 38fl 37fr 35rears at limerock, and yet to have alot of slide
I have been running the Azenis at 38fl 37fr 35rears at limerock, and yet to have alot of slide
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