2.5" mandrel downpipe, or 3" hack job?
As everyone knows, making a 3" downpipe that's a/c compatible is pretty challenging. My question is this... which would be better (and why, no 3 word answers please) a 2.5" mandrel bent downpipe, or a 3" hack job (with angles cut in 3" pipe and whatnot) that always stays above 2.5" in diameter but isn't mandrel bent? The 3" would be somewhat of an upside down L shape coming off of the turbo, unless anyone has any better ideas.
Which one, and why. Info to back it up, or situational examples would be a plus.
Which one, and why. Info to back it up, or situational examples would be a plus.
See now as soon as I make a 3" hack job people are going to say "why did you do that, 2.5" mandrel is so much better because..."
C'mon, someone has some experience with this...
C'mon, someone has some experience with this...
Well, I really don't think the setup matters, but it's just t3/t04b. I was thinking of doing an ecutout setup, but i may not...
I'm just asking which would give more power and flow.. the 3" hack job or 2.5" mandrel.
I'm just asking which would give more power and flow.. the 3" hack job or 2.5" mandrel.
well it doesn't seem like you're terribly opposed to the 2.5 inch so why not do as suggested above and flare to 3 inch after the a/c compressor? Other than that you could make both and dyno both and prove it to yourself.
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AlphaKennyWun
Forced Induction
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Aug 19, 2004 12:14 PM



