Converting a LS block to 85mm Bore...
Hey..
First is it possible??
What are good Sleves to put it??
Pistons for 12.5:1 CR??
Rods??
Knife edge the crank??
Revving to 9500?? W/ B16 Head (Full P&P) Crower Stage II Cams.....
i want to build this... i need all the info i can get...
This is going into a 91 CRX Si..
First is it possible??
What are good Sleves to put it??
Pistons for 12.5:1 CR??
Rods??
Knife edge the crank??
Revving to 9500?? W/ B16 Head (Full P&P) Crower Stage II Cams.....
i want to build this... i need all the info i can get...
This is going into a 91 CRX Si..
(nearly) anything is possible.
Golden Eagle is a pretty good product. Pistons are your choice, pretty much everyone makes off the shelf high comp pistons in 84+mm bores. I'd recommend both IB Spec pistons or Endyn pistons. Probe rods seem to be pretty good, can't go wrong with Eagle either. Leave the crank as is, in worst case have the journals micropolished but you will have to recheck your clearances afterwards.
I'd look into a block girdle, either retrofitting a GSR/ITR unit or going with a Z10 or endyn unit.
Here's my opinion. Rev to what you need to, make the motor as bullet proof as your budget allows. Valvetrain is a must (at least springs & retainers).
Searching honda-tech will be great (rods, pistons, girdle, sleeve, skunk).
Good luck.
Golden Eagle is a pretty good product. Pistons are your choice, pretty much everyone makes off the shelf high comp pistons in 84+mm bores. I'd recommend both IB Spec pistons or Endyn pistons. Probe rods seem to be pretty good, can't go wrong with Eagle either. Leave the crank as is, in worst case have the journals micropolished but you will have to recheck your clearances afterwards.
I'd look into a block girdle, either retrofitting a GSR/ITR unit or going with a Z10 or endyn unit.
Here's my opinion. Rev to what you need to, make the motor as bullet proof as your budget allows. Valvetrain is a must (at least springs & retainers).
Searching honda-tech will be great (rods, pistons, girdle, sleeve, skunk).
Good luck.
Yes. With aftermarekt sleeve you can go up to 87mm.
Darton, GE MFG, Bensen, AEBS, RS Machines all are good.
JE, Arias, Wiseco, Endyn etc... all good.
Stock with ARP bolts, Eagle, Crower, Probe, Pauter, Manley etc... all good but a tad overkill.
Don't knifedge the crank. Balence it. With valvetrain head will rev fine. Careful witht he block. You can do it, how long is the key. RPM's are a killer. If you don't need to rev that high don't.
Search there's tons of good info on this stuff.
Darton, GE MFG, Bensen, AEBS, RS Machines all are good.
JE, Arias, Wiseco, Endyn etc... all good.
Stock with ARP bolts, Eagle, Crower, Probe, Pauter, Manley etc... all good but a tad overkill.
Don't knifedge the crank. Balence it. With valvetrain head will rev fine. Careful witht he block. You can do it, how long is the key. RPM's are a killer. If you don't need to rev that high don't.
Search there's tons of good info on this stuff.
1st of all yes it can be done.
2nd ... i personally do not like crower dohc vtec cams... they have been proven to break time after time. The Non-vtec cams are different. Crower ti retatiners and valve springs are fairly competive and nice for the price.
*I personally would go with RSmachines, then benson, then GE..... they are all good.
*Pistons.. there are tons of choices to go with. I personally would go with either Weisco~IBspec Super Dupper Pistons....... or Weisco~Eyden Roller Wave pistons.
other pistons are good but not as good
*I would get the bottom end re-balanced... not kneif~edged. Balance teh flywheel, Flywheel bolts, rods & bolts, pistons, cranks pulley ect.
*reving to 9500rpms... should be ok. Jun3 only make power to about 8900-9100rpms i think.
good luck
2nd ... i personally do not like crower dohc vtec cams... they have been proven to break time after time. The Non-vtec cams are different. Crower ti retatiners and valve springs are fairly competive and nice for the price.
*I personally would go with RSmachines, then benson, then GE..... they are all good.
*Pistons.. there are tons of choices to go with. I personally would go with either Weisco~IBspec Super Dupper Pistons....... or Weisco~Eyden Roller Wave pistons.
other pistons are good but not as good
*I would get the bottom end re-balanced... not kneif~edged. Balance teh flywheel, Flywheel bolts, rods & bolts, pistons, cranks pulley ect.
*reving to 9500rpms... should be ok. Jun3 only make power to about 8900-9100rpms i think.
good luck
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SiBirdie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also heard that going 85mm is max for a daily driven motor. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i honestly wouldn't go more than 85mm.
I mean if you dump a crap load of money into a 85mm dohc vtec powerhouse most people wouldn't want to use it as a daily driver because of theift and the maitnance of it. If your running 12+cr your going to need 93octane. Also there will be more than normal wear because of how much pressure your pistons make on the rings and the additional heat cause from the hotter burn. You'll also have to take that into concideration with a daily driver.
HTH
yeah i honestly wouldn't go more than 85mm.
I mean if you dump a crap load of money into a 85mm dohc vtec powerhouse most people wouldn't want to use it as a daily driver because of theift and the maitnance of it. If your running 12+cr your going to need 93octane. Also there will be more than normal wear because of how much pressure your pistons make on the rings and the additional heat cause from the hotter burn. You'll also have to take that into concideration with a daily driver.
HTH
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxsirvtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this will be a weekend/track car...
no driving to work...
Why not knife edge the crank??</TD></TR></TABLE>
do the reasearch.... you'll find it.
let me ask you this... why do you think you need to? do you understand why it is important to retain a certain amout of mass in the rotatin assembly to have a save reliable motor?
trust me you don not need to do it. THAT should be your LAST mod if anything else. honda cranks are very well balanced from the factory. If you want a lighter crank get a ITR crank... not much differece but lighter it is
not trying to flame you just trying to get you to think more about why you need to do a mod if you don't know how it will effect your overall setup.
no driving to work...
Why not knife edge the crank??</TD></TR></TABLE>
do the reasearch.... you'll find it.
let me ask you this... why do you think you need to? do you understand why it is important to retain a certain amout of mass in the rotatin assembly to have a save reliable motor?
trust me you don not need to do it. THAT should be your LAST mod if anything else. honda cranks are very well balanced from the factory. If you want a lighter crank get a ITR crank... not much differece but lighter it is
not trying to flame you just trying to get you to think more about why you need to do a mod if you don't know how it will effect your overall setup.
ITR cranks are lighter than ls cranks? I know the ITR crank is heavier than a gsr crank because of the larger counter weights. Even with the bigger counterweights the ITR is lighter than an ls one? Im not doubting you, just curious
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