I have a 00 Si that I just installed a greddy kit on, the only other mods are a tanabe racing medalion, ngk plugs, hks bov and thats it besides all the parts the turbo kit came with. ever since I installed it I keep getting cel 71,72,73,74 I don't get 1 or 2 or even all 4 of them I always get 3 of them at a time. the car runs perfect, the idle gets a little ruff at times and thats when the check engine comes on. it also seems to come on mainly in the morning when I am in traffic driving slowly. does anyone have a clue as to what I could do to illiminate this, I know the code can mean misfire but it can also mean soo many other things and I find it odd that it would only and always be happening in 3 cylinders at a time. I apprecaite any helpful adivce anyone can offer.

 

I believe that is a random misfire code I would replace the sparkplugs and then knock the gap down to to about .025" and that should solve the problem. also remember to reset the ECU to clear the codes

 

That is the random misfire code...In general, any code that blinks while driving is not good. Pull the plugs and see what they look like...check your injectors...did you wire them correctly?

 

it's not blinking, it just turns on solid. I have heard that those codes can mean anything from misfires to too much fuel or other things. the injectors are wired fine, I did them 1 wire at a time to make sure of that and double checked it as I went. after I did the install I reseated the injectors to see if that was the problem and it appeared to work for a few days then the check engine came back on. it doesn't come on during load as in when I am driving hard, and I don't hear anything that sounds wrong or different. I will try changing the plugs again and check the injectors once more.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killerslp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's not blinking, it just turns on solid. I have heard that those codes can mean anything from misfires to too much fuel or other things. the injectors are wired fine, I did them 1 wire at a time to make sure of that and double checked it as I went. after I did the install I reseated the injectors to see if that was the problem and it appeared to work for a few days then the check engine came back on. it doesn't come on during load as in when I am driving hard, and I don't hear anything that sounds wrong or different. I will try changing the plugs again and check the injectors once more.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had the same thing happen on my turbo si with the greddy kit. If you idled the car for an extended period of time the cel would flash all the time, and if you are driving it is fine. i think all blue boxes throw this code (misfire 1-4 and random multiple misfires), and as all your injectors are firing, and you are getting proper fuel you are fine, but the code will always be there.

 

The cause is usually attributed to the Blue Box. Many people with the GReddy kit have the same problem.

Aside from that, what shape is your ignition system in (cap/rotor/plugs/wires/plug gap and part # used)?

 

stock cap/rotor/wires, only 41k on the car. the plugs are ngk bkr7e(not 100% posistive thats the one I have but almost sure) originally gapped them to stock specs which was like .47 and this weekend regapped them to .33. I don't have a problem dealing with the cel but the fact that the car goes into limp mode and vtec doesn't work, it's pointless to have a turbo that in that condition is only adding 10-20hp. the funniest part is that it really only seems to happen in the mornings. is it even possible that the 3" exhaust isn't creating enough back pressure? I doubt thats it but I am looking for any fix for this besides spending another 1k to get a feul managemnt comp. thanks for the adivce so far.

 

tanabe racing medallion isn't a 3" exhaust... its 60mm...

 

well i wasn't trying to be exact, I was just generalizing becuase it's not the stock exhaust nor is it a little 2" exhaust.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killerslp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock cap/rotor/wires, only 41k on the car. the plugs are ngk bkr7e(not 100% posistive thats the one I have but almost sure) originally gapped them to stock specs which was like .47 and this weekend regapped them to .33. I don't have a problem dealing with the cel but the fact that the car goes into limp mode and vtec doesn't work, it's pointless to have a turbo that in that condition is only adding 10-20hp. the funniest part is that it really only seems to happen in the mornings. is it even possible that the 3" exhaust isn't creating enough back pressure? I doubt thats it but I am looking for any fix for this besides spending another 1k to get a feul managemnt comp. thanks for the adivce so far.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My car throws a random misfire check light every once in a while. Like someone said, it happens when you let the car idle too much especially in the morning. I usually try not to let the car idle too much. Sometimes I'll go 2-3 weeks without seeing the CEL. I don't think the car goes into limp mode when the random misfire light comes on. The car runs just about the same, if not better, while its on. This is on a 99 GSR so being that you have an Si the OBD2 versions may be different. Try not idling so much in the morning or when the motor is cold. Drive the car under very light throttle and load until you're up to operating temp. Idling too much causes carbon build-up anyway. I usually just start the car and let it sit for 10 seconds and drive off. Seems to work.

 

in the morning I start the car wait about 10 seconds then leave, I keep it under about 4k until it's warm. it doesn't give the cel until after it's warm and I am sitting in traffic and it's idleing. everytime the cel has come on vtec doesn't engage but when it's not on it works engages, so it has to be becuase of that.
on another note the tanabe exhaust I got from a friend who said it was a racing medalion, another friend bought a racing medalion off ebay(just the muffler not the whole cat back) my muffler is alot longer than the one he bought, could it be the same or is it likely I have the super racing medalion? doesn't make much difference to me, I like what I have just would rather be sure about which I have. and thanks again for the help and advice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killerslp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in the morning I start the car wait about 10 seconds then leave, I keep it under about 4k until it's warm. it doesn't give the cel until after it's warm and I am sitting in traffic and it's idleing. everytime the cel has come on vtec doesn't engage but when it's not on it works engages, so it has to be becuase of that.
on another note the tanabe exhaust I got from a friend who said it was a racing medalion, another friend bought a racing medalion off ebay(just the muffler not the whole cat back) my muffler is alot longer than the one he bought, could it be the same or is it likely I have the super racing medalion? doesn't make much difference to me, I like what I have just would rather be sure about which I have. and thanks again for the help and advice.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's not much you can do if it comes on while the car is warm and stuck in traffic except to hope you don't hit traffic. Or maybe switch to OBD1

Sorry can't help you with your exhaust question.

 

As other have said either your spark plugs are bad or you are getting too much fuel.

Does the engine move a lot when idleing? ( like the motor mount is broke)

When I had my greddy kit I got misfire because an injector was suck open and dumping way too much fuel in. One of my injector wires was messed up.

So double check your wiring and/or resolder the injector wires. Change your spark plugs get a set colder.

 

I have the same problem with my greddy kit except my check engine light stays on, (i have posted my check engine light codes before on here).

So far i've changed out my spark plugs, 02 sensor (primary),and cap+rotor.

I think all we can do is invest in a standalone and ditch the blue box.

 

Steve, ya boosted the Civic eh?? Nice, congrats

BTW, you're getting misfire codes in 1-4, you'd better find the problem before you keep driving.

 

yeh the funny thing is I was getting the cel every morning this week while sittin in traffic. this morning I had the a/c on the whole trip and didn't get a cel, so I assume it's a issue while idleing beucase with the a/c it was averaging 750-1000rpms rather than the 500 or lower. I already regapped some new plugs to .29(I have heard everything from .25 - .35 so I am going in the middle) and am going to try those this weekend, and also going to check the injectors, and posible redo the wiring on the bluebox. and like I said the engine sounds exactly the same as it did the day I bought the car, and it runs perfectly so I am not worried about damaging anything. hey dave last I heard u were ditching the turbo on the civic, that was along time ago have what have ya done since?
oh the 1 time I went to moroso I ran a 15.9 in 90+ degree weather with high humidity and a fully bodykit on the car, only engine mod was the exhaust and a chrome CAI. does it seem unreasonable to expect a mid to low 14 with the greddy kit at 5.5psi ? thanks again for the advice

 

Yea the Civic hasn't been boosted in about a year now, but the GS-R is

Regap those plugs, check your timing, check the wiring on the bluebox

 

adjust the gap to 0.30 on your sparkplugs. this will cure your check engine light.
I've been running the blue box for a while now and never ever had a check engine light.

 

Take this from a greddy owner that pulled his hair out trying to figure this same problem out.....It is the blue box....period...It does not mean that the box is a total pos so dont listen to everyone that tells you to get rid of it...I went through 2 blue boxes, reflashes, etc.....Greddy tried to be helpful, but no matter what, the problem still returned.....Just live with the cels, cause other than that the blue box works wery well...

 

well I will give the new plugs a shot and check the wiring just to be sure and if that doesn't fix it i will try leaving the a/c on(keeps the engine revved slighty higher than idle) and see if I don't get it. if the a/c thing works I will just adjust the idle slightly higher. but thanks again for the advice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killerslp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well I will give the new plugs a shot and check the wiring just to be sure and if that doesn't fix it i will try leaving the a/c on(keeps the engine revved slighty higher than idle) and see if I don't get it. if the a/c thing works I will just adjust the idle slightly higher. but thanks again for the advice.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I notice the same symptoms on my car. It idles lower than it did stock with the blue box and injectors. There is more vibration than before. The car runs much smoother at idle with the A/C on. I was also thinking about adjusting the idle a little higher but I've been lazy.