Okay, I've replaced my radiator due to a small crack in it. I've tried bleeding the system and air did come out. I've yet to see the fan turn on and the temp needle continues to rise. I'm wondering where to turn next. Is it possible that there is still air in the system? If so, what is the best way to get rid of ALL of it and fix my fan problem? Thanks in advance.

 

Ok, with brand new radiator.

What I would recommend is to completely flush out the system with the heater core valve open (the climate control set to hot), completely flush out the system, and fill it up with new coolant.

Keep the radiator cap off, turn on the car, let the car warm up while adding coolant still, until the coolant is at the proper level inside the radiator. Then place the cap back on.

 

Alright, the upper hose is super hot while the lower is cold. The reservoir tank can be full in the morning and after driving to and from work it will be low again. Coolant is spilling over the cap (when it's on) and onto the fan shroud. I can turn the heater on and temps seem to come down some, but the heater on in Alabama is no fun. Fan fuse is good, haven't checked the relay yet. Could this be a thermostat or even water pump. How could I check it without ripping stuff all apart?
BTW...I'm not getting any bubbles with the radiator cap off, it just overflows within 30 seconds or so.

 

The upper hose being hot and the lower being cold, means there is a flow problem.

Try flushing out the radiator completely. Have you installed anything like ECT or sending unit at all??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by poison &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The upper hose being hot and the lower being cold, means there is a flow problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Meaning that the thermostat is probably stuck closed...correct? I don't see how a brand new radiator could be clogged somewhere, but I guess it's possible. Should I really flush it again? Could be the water pump too, couldn't it? Someone please give me the correct way to bleed the cooling system because I've heard so many different ways and I want to get this right. Thanks.

 

replace the easy first, thermostat, if that dont fix it, go from there

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">replace the easy first, thermostat, if that dont fix it, go from there</TD></TR></TABLE>

What about the bleeding of the system? That is my main concern. I can't/won't touch anything else until I know the proper way for sure. C'mon, some one help me out here.

 

I would recommend just completely draining the system and flush it out. Definitely replace the thermostat. Make also sure the heater core valve is open when you do this so the heater core is also flushed out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've yet to see the fan turn on and the temp needle continues to rise. I'm wondering where to turn next. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe the fan relay?

 

Is the fan coming on????

 

its not hard man, i believe you are the last person that i talked to about this... Cold hose = FLUSH!!!!!! it means that there is air in the system and it's sitting in that hose, usually the lower hose!
turn on the car and warm it up to operating temp, Get a lowsy towel, unscrew the purge valve until coolant squirts out, pump the cold hose until you can feel coolant flowing and there is a steady stream of coolant coming from the purge valve!
piece of cake y0!*

-Bryan-

 

if the fan is not coming on fis that first. if the lower radiator hose is not hot when completetly warmed up. the thermostat is bad. replace that. the fan will not come on if the thermostat is stuck open. good luck

 

Temperature Sensor -