Alright, thanks, I got it. Well, the code was saying 41 meaning the heater coil on the primary O2 sensor, so I replace the whole O2 sensor and reset the ecu, only to see the code come back immediately. I got frustrated and took the car to the dealership. Well, in the end, the problem was that the oem header was cracked and leaking. It was cool though cause the dealership replaced my header, catalytic converter and both O2 sensors for free because of some warrenty that was on the car. I was like oh my god, staying stock actually did a good thing for me The only thing I paid for is the dealer said that the boshe spark plugs I was running isn't good for a civic because it takes alot of electricity to produce a good spark so I had NGK's installed. Meaning I got $1000.00 in parts, and new spark plugs installed and in the end, it cost me $36.00 all together Amazing. Basicly all I need to do is have the water pump and timing belt changed and my car will be completely done as far as maintenance is concerned. Also, the dealership mentioned something about this technique they do in which they run some sort of liquid solution through your entire engine to clear out any carbon buildup and its supposed to be really good for you engine. They said it costs about $150.00 to be done by the dealership. Anybody know about this and should I do it?


Modified by kay_animation at 10:33 PM 9/7/2003

 

It should be behind that passenger-side "kick panel" near the ECU. Big fat green thing with a blue connector wedged inside of it.

 

I see a really big harness thats kinda connected to the face of the ECU, and everything else is plugged into the ecu. Am I missing something?

 

BTW, I reset the ecu and the check engine light seems to have stopped for right now. Hopefully it will not come back. I just want to know how to do the paperclip in the harness trick now so that I can check for codes in the future. Please help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Daniel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It should be behind that passenger-side "kick panel" near the ECU. Big fat green thing with a blue connector wedged inside of it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

reset it all you like, most likely it will be back

 

Under the passenger side of the dash, perhaps tucked under the carpet or placed high. There should be a rubber piece holding 2 connectors. It is near the ECU but higher, nearer the dash.........

 

http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/06.php
that should help

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch


this will tell u everything u need....

 

Thanks for the link. I just have to find that blue clip now

Also I searched. I alway search before I just post a question.

The reason I reset the ecu is because the only thing that I did to the car before the light came on was install a custom ground kit. I reset the ecu after I did it but I know from doing it before the car might act wierd when you first install it and will act normal when the ecu is completely reset. I have drivin for like 1/4 of a tank of gas so far and the light hasn't come back on. So hopefully it was just a ecu problem with the new ground kit.

 

I just got my error code. Please help me out on this on and let me know if I'm right on the code or not.

 

can anybody help?

 

hey bro everyone on here says the little connector is near the ecu probabyl under the carpet they are part right. i looked everywhere. and couldnt find it. finally i poked my fingers in the area way above the ECU area u can see it plain as day if u take the glove box off for a sec. once u have the glove box off u will see a green cover with 2 blue plugs a 3 pring one and a 2 prong one. jumpt eh 2 prong one with a paper clup or something. goodluck.

 

Yes, I found the jumper cable and got it to start flashing. My question is above in the first post. I meant I need help with that question. The one about the code that I tried to flash to me. Well again, please help

 

Slow flashes are 10, fast flashes are 1.

 

I IM'd you back cause I'm special

 

you will only see the slow flashes if the code is 11 or higher, you may of put the clip on the wrong side of the connecter. It should be a little harder to get in this way you know that your touching the metal. also when the check engine light is flashing to tell you the code it will be harder to see then when the check engine light comes on when you put the car in the on position.

 

Its all fixed. Read the first post