Break in period for new pistons and rings...
hey wsup ITR guys, just wanted to know everyones opinion on a good break in mileage for my pistons and rings to be settled in. Around 1000 miles or so? I just had oversized CTR pistons installed with rings and thought around 1000 miles or so would be enough time for the rings to settle on the walls. I've kept my car under 3k rpm for about 400 miles now and it's driving me nuts not being able to drive and having minivans pass me on the freeway. any thoughts would be appreciatged.
You`ll get a million different answers. I always "baby" the motor for a few hundred miles, but really don`t follow any particular guideline as I have read so many different theories on this subject. Some people say 1,000 miles, other say they`ll seat within the first 3-4 times you fire up the car
are u using synthetic or regular oil? supposedly if you use regular oil for the first 1000 miles or so it will break in the rings and cylinders better. dunno how much truth there is to that though.
personally after my build up with pistons, etc, I ran royal purple for the first couple hundred miles, and took over 20 dyno runs the first day the car was running, revving it well past 9K LOL. I didnt wait AT ALL and it seems to be running great so far(over 6K miles).
and for the record, my compression numbers are 270-280 across the board so I know its healthy and wasnt harmed during my dyno day break in.
Modified by RTW DC2 at 3:24 PM 9/3/2003
personally after my build up with pistons, etc, I ran royal purple for the first couple hundred miles, and took over 20 dyno runs the first day the car was running, revving it well past 9K LOL. I didnt wait AT ALL and it seems to be running great so far(over 6K miles).
and for the record, my compression numbers are 270-280 across the board so I know its healthy and wasnt harmed during my dyno day break in.
Modified by RTW DC2 at 3:24 PM 9/3/2003
i have heard this alot too, about breaking them on a dyno and breaking them in over a 1000 miles. The shop put in non-synthetic 5w30 initially saying that synthetic is too thin. oh well, i donno i think i'll settle for close to 1000miles than give the new motor a rip. I have to get it tuned soon anyways and install new injectors.
I would say just give it a few more miles. chances are its already broken in just about as much as its gonna get broken in. then I would change the oil(synthetic maybe?), do some maintenance(valve adjust, make sure everything is tight like motor mounts(two bolts fell out on my car lol), etc) to make sure everything is kosher, and then drive the hell out of it and watch for cops
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would say just give it a few more miles. chances are its already broken in just about as much as its gonna get broken in. then I would change the oil(synthetic maybe?), do some maintenance(valve adjust, make sure everything is tight like motor mounts(two bolts fell out on my car lol), etc) to make sure everything is kosher, and then drive the hell out of it and watch for cops
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good ****, i'll make note of this
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good ****, i'll make note of this
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hope the motor runs well joeman! looking foward to seeing ya on the track again...this time with your new motor!
kepani-who can't wait till joe's old "feline" comes in the mail.
kepani-who can't wait till joe's old "feline" comes in the mail.
One thing I've heard over and over regardless of what method is to change the oil very frequently for the first few thousand miles. For the first 1,000mi I believe they say to change the oil every 250mi or so. Doesn't seem like a bad idea.
I've also read of breaking it in by letting it warm up at idle then ripping it to redline on the road then leaving it in gear and letting it back down (engine braking), then repeat this 2-3 more times. After that park the car and let it set for 24-48hrs.
I've also read of breaking it in by letting it warm up at idle then ripping it to redline on the road then leaving it in gear and letting it back down (engine braking), then repeat this 2-3 more times. After that park the car and let it set for 24-48hrs.
Ran regular oil , in breaking in period for 1000 miles , went i was getting 20 miles near 1000 breaking period took it to 6k rpms . Once i hitted 1000 miles did oil change , ran regular oil till 2500 miles(change oil) then i ran one more time regular oil and did oil change . After that i changed to Motul , motor runs nice and strong ...
imo...if you break in your motor hard thats how your gonna drive it...if you baby it then thats the way your gonna be driving it..i broke my motor in hard and it turned out perfect
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ciRcuitSi y0! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">imo...if you break in your motor hard thats how your gonna drive it...if you baby it then thats the way your gonna be driving it..i broke my motor in hard and it turned out perfect</TD></TR></TABLE>
i think this is strictly an opinion, in no way do i feel that this post is correct in a technical sense. but if it worked for you than thas good ****, but just cause somebody wants to break the car in by babying it doesn't mean that's how you drive.
i think this is strictly an opinion, in no way do i feel that this post is correct in a technical sense. but if it worked for you than thas good ****, but just cause somebody wants to break the car in by babying it doesn't mean that's how you drive.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zer0zer0 TypeR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i think this is strictly an opinion, in no way do i feel that this post is correct in a technical sense. but if it worked for you than thas good ****, but just cause somebody wants to break the car in by babying it doesn't mean that's how you drive.</TD></TR></TABLE>i agree with you totally...there are some that will agree with me and some that will disagree...but imo i think its better to break it in hard
i think this is strictly an opinion, in no way do i feel that this post is correct in a technical sense. but if it worked for you than thas good ****, but just cause somebody wants to break the car in by babying it doesn't mean that's how you drive.</TD></TR></TABLE>i agree with you totally...there are some that will agree with me and some that will disagree...but imo i think its better to break it in hard
I guess from growing up around my dad and muscle cars and most drag muscle cars, they always said- "Take it easy for the first 100 miles or so, and then drive how you're gonna drive it when racing. Run it hard, it'll run hard- soft it'll run soft etc..." Guess it's all just opinion, but I'd probably give my rebuild a hundred miles or so and rip on it. Keep non-synthetic til 1000, then go synthetic.
hahah this has been my dilemma, but what I've learnt so far..
"Run dino oil" - non friction modified for 1000 miles with VERY REGULAR oil changes i.e. new oil and filter ever 200 miles (arghh why cant you guys just talk km's the rest of the world does - anyway i'm off topic)
after 1000 miles I plan to give my motor a bit more stick and eventually build up the rev range and then at the 2500 mark, redline... After this I'll be switching to motul chrono - the good stuff!!!
Jansen
"Run dino oil" - non friction modified for 1000 miles with VERY REGULAR oil changes i.e. new oil and filter ever 200 miles (arghh why cant you guys just talk km's the rest of the world does - anyway i'm off topic)
after 1000 miles I plan to give my motor a bit more stick and eventually build up the rev range and then at the 2500 mark, redline... After this I'll be switching to motul chrono - the good stuff!!!
Jansen
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr Pooface »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>
i love this site, but my problem is what if if the car's fuel needs to be tuned. I wouldnt want to just beat on a new built motor,with just any fuel set up. i guess thats where "breaking in on the dyno" comes into place.
i love this site, but my problem is what if if the car's fuel needs to be tuned. I wouldnt want to just beat on a new built motor,with just any fuel set up. i guess thats where "breaking in on the dyno" comes into place.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JaeOne3345 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i love this site, but my problem is what if if the car's fuel needs to be tuned. I wouldnt want to just beat on a new built motor,with just any fuel set up. i guess thats where "breaking in on the dyno" comes into place.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used that technique but I also had my hondata tuned while I was breaking the motor in. You don't want to run lean or run really rich and wash the cylinders. Make sure to use SAE 30 a non detergent oil for about the first 100-500 miles. Then switch to regular or synthetic. Most rings seal within the first 20 miles. Also make sure that you do vacuum pulls. go to like 60 miles an hour then let the rpm's come down. This helps to seat the rings as well. At 67 miles on my motor I was on the dyno doing redline pulls with 9psi of boost. My motor runs like a champ. No oil consumption, smoking, or idle problems. Compression is perfect in every cylinder.
i love this site, but my problem is what if if the car's fuel needs to be tuned. I wouldnt want to just beat on a new built motor,with just any fuel set up. i guess thats where "breaking in on the dyno" comes into place.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used that technique but I also had my hondata tuned while I was breaking the motor in. You don't want to run lean or run really rich and wash the cylinders. Make sure to use SAE 30 a non detergent oil for about the first 100-500 miles. Then switch to regular or synthetic. Most rings seal within the first 20 miles. Also make sure that you do vacuum pulls. go to like 60 miles an hour then let the rpm's come down. This helps to seat the rings as well. At 67 miles on my motor I was on the dyno doing redline pulls with 9psi of boost. My motor runs like a champ. No oil consumption, smoking, or idle problems. Compression is perfect in every cylinder.
b18c block
itr head
ctr pistons
toda cams
toda valvesprings
drove 70 miles to dyno on a fresh engine
1st run on dyno to 5k to work out airfuel
2nd to 8k fixxed air fuel
3rd run went to 10,100 rpms....
engine ran great...after 20 runs on the dyno to 10k....
itr head
ctr pistons
toda cams
toda valvesprings
drove 70 miles to dyno on a fresh engine
1st run on dyno to 5k to work out airfuel
2nd to 8k fixxed air fuel
3rd run went to 10,100 rpms....
engine ran great...after 20 runs on the dyno to 10k....
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