Car was running obd0. setup is a d15 with a z6 head. obd 0 injectors with a resistor box. p28 ecu and an obd1 dist and conversion harness. i know the harness is good because i sent it to get fixed. the dist and ecu i am not so sure about. here is the problem:

when i installed all the obd1 stuff car would not start and i had a code 22 (vtec oil presure). i though ok lets switch the white wires. switched em but had no luck starting. but the code 22 went away. when car did not start i kept switchin the wires and reseting the ECU. the code 22 only came on when the wires were switched wrong (i am assuming that the code means the wires were wrong).
car stil would not start and was getting no spark (i checked with a timing light) but i smelled fuel. took off cap and rotor and cleaned everything throughly still no start and no codes and no spark. someone please help or ill be riding the skateboard to school tomorow.

 

how did you match up the obd1 distributor to the obd0 distributor plugs? is the engine cranking over? more details would help!

 

i matched my old dx plug that was working on my mpfi swap with a6 dist, to the obd1 dist. i used a 2 wire plug for the CAS and used my obd 0 coil plug. car does crank but wont start. all wiring has been checked and rechecked. again it ran perfect with my old obd0 setup.

 

Yea most likely the Distributor.

Same problem with my swap but you need to match the wires.

Blue/GRN to Blue Green On OBD1 Dizzy.

And Blu/Yellow to Blu/Yel wire on OBD1 dizzy.

Also two wires on the OBD1 Distributor White Wire and a yel/grn wire. That will cause your car not to start if wrong. Try to swap those wires.

Let me know if it helps u get started

 

i have tried switching the 2 white wires and yellow green and yellow blue wires. i have not tried swithing the blue green blue yellow ones. i thoguth that will just cause my car to have a bad idle. is it possible for those wires to cause it not to start?

 

Hmmm I don't think that will cause it not to start!!!

hmm right firing order..
getting fuel...?


Also if your dizzy is fucked up even though your wiring is correct car will not start!!!! I had that problem I thought my wiring was messed up but it was the dizzy I bought a Brand new DIzzy that made my car start. Then I had the CKP and CPY problem but that was fixed after a while...

 

Yes and Yes.
Anyone selling a Z6 dist? haha


Modified by 91civicLX at 5:00 AM 9/1/2003

 

for all those who car. car just started today and ran beautifully. the idle was surging but i gues it was the computer calibrating itself because it settled after a while. the problem was the coil had a broken contact and the cap was corroded at the coil and rotor terminals. i also had the firing order one because i thought it started with the terminal closest to the ground. after checking it the old fashoned way(no cap and watch the rotor) i found it was the closest terminal to the firewall.

there is another problem however. i realized since i have the cam advanced 5 degrees to compensate for the 4.75 degrees off of 0 the distributor cannot retard that much so i am stuck several degrees advanced. the center mark is about 1 inch from the alignment mark. any ideas other than cutting the dist?

 

looks like you will be running in no time!!!

 

bump, becasue i will be going through this same thing in the next cople of days.

 

im doin it too... cant wait

<-----hates wiring

 

with obd1 ull notice a lot more gains that with obd0.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civicLX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

there is another problem however. i realized since i have the cam advanced 5 degrees to compensate for the 4.75 degrees off of 0 the distributor cannot retard that much so i am stuck several degrees advanced. the center mark is about 1 inch from the alignment mark. any ideas other than cutting the dist? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Double check to make sure you have the cam/crank timing correct. Supposedly the mini-me setup requires a cam gear because the timing belt will be off 1/2 a tooth.

 

yea thats true. my car would barely run if i set the cam gear to 0 at 5 degrees advanced though it runs nice

 

#1 thing - are you disabling the electronic ignition advance before you start trying to set the ignition timing?

If you are then.... I would have though that advancing the cam with the gear like that should have solved the problem. I guess that creates the problem though. Since the distributor is driven by the cam the advancing may have made it impossible to get the distributor to adjust correctly without modification. If you retard the cam gear some then the ignition timing probably gets better - right?

I think you could bring the crank to it's TDC position. Mark the outside of the distributor post by the numbe one cylinder. Remove the distributor cap. Rotate the cam gear until the rotor is aiming directly at the mark you made on the distributor. That should be the true 0. Timing should be correct then and everthing should be cool.

 

yea i foud the problem. my timing gun wasnt calibrate right so i was trying to adjust it to like 20 degrees advance . when it is at 16 bdtc the distributor sits perfectly in the middle of its movement. so you are right advancing the cam like that does solve the problem not create it. and yes i disabled the ignition advance if those jumper wires still control it with the obd0-obd1 harness