Hey guys....
K heres my prob.... d16y8 turbo'd, I have a 2mm headgasket, adj. cam gear adjusted according to compensate for the gasket, I am currently not boosting due to the fact that I have no mgt right now. So this is my problem, the car runs fine when normal driving, then I get on the freeway and drive up a hill the car feels boggy then it'll backfire, it happens when its a a lower RPM and climbing the hill, then I will downshift and go up the hill, the car is okay. The backfire is pretty bad too, the whole car bogs.
Now I did searches, and to tell you the truth, so many mixed feedback on there,some say your running to rich, some say your running to lean.
I have a 2 1/4 exhaust with a straight thru cat. I am running stock NGK plugs gapped at 30.
I have a B&M FPR too, could that thing not regulating the fuel cause too much fuel and not burn it sufficiently?
Dont know if you guys need any additional info, but I will provide it so we can get this problem resolved asap.

THANKS

 

What brand are the adjustable cam gears? Some, like skunk2 are degreed wrong so when you think your at -1 degrees you could be -3 or +1. From what I have read, toda and spoon are the too with the least bit of error in degreeing. Also, run a compression test. Maybe your not getting a perfect seal in one of your cylinders

 

If you're backfiring you're are running rich... PERIOD...

backfiring is when un-burned gas or gas fumes ignite from high temps in the exhaust system...

 

okay i am using a skunk2 cam gear, but honestly i dont think thats the prob.....

Also I did a comp test..145 across the board..i know low but probably because of the low comp head gskt.

Okay so I am running rich..now would I turn down my fuel pressure? I think I am at about 37psi, How would I fix it...I know getting it tuned, Im gonna do that soon, but until I do, what do you guys reccomend, should I maybe run a little lower octane gas..Gimme some info....Thanks guys

 

the octane has nothing to do with you running rich. somewhere along the line you are spraying too much fuel into the motor

 

backfire is usually a ignition timing issue

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ericrx_88 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">backfire is usually a ignition timing issue</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sort of...

Normally the only way you'll dump enough fuel in to get it to put raw gas in the pipes is by having NO spark to ignite it.. then the fuel enters the exhaust and ignites depending on exhaust temperatures... (and generally if it has a cat it won't back fire unless the cat is pretty shot)... So timing can be the cause but with him being turbo and having more fuel going in (and having no cat) it's more likely an over delivery problem...

If he had no spark it would be detonating like a beotch (turbo has MUCH higher compression once it's spooled (compression can cause detonation (pressure and temperature are directly related)) and probobly would have blown up his engine already. Or at the very least heard it pinging like it was singing.

 

okay so you guys think i should lower my fuel pressure? Or do you think it could be my B&M not regulating properly.....I have not I dont think been detonating, I have not heard any sort of pinging...
Dont think this has anything to do with the backfiring but I did throw one code, it was for the IAC valve, I am going to change it rather than trying to clean it, I got the same code when I dyno'd it a while back.
So thanks guys, I would like more info and suggestions....
bye the way, Im a "she" not a "he"....

 

take it to a dyno, it will solve your problems

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take it to a dyno, it will solve your problems</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I know...I just wanted to know what my problem could be, I still have to drive my car around until I get it dyno'd and backfiring is annoying..

 

Ok....First of all.....Sounds to me like you are having a ignition timing problem, check your Timing. If that is okay then your Fuel Managment could be the reason why you may be getting to much Fuel at certain speeds under certain loads on your engine. (Usually when you buy a turbo the first thing you do is buy the fuel management system, Where's a Hondata when you need one or a equivalent Fuel management system). If you don't have that, (as you have said) then you can't control your fuel without changing your FPR and taking it to a Dyno everytime you need to adjust your Fuel........pain in the neck and costly for some people........ and third you say it is putting out a code for your IAC Valve then replacing it is best, like you are doing already. The IAC may also not be letting in the correct amount of air to mix properly with your fuel, causing you to get too much fuel. And last but not least, take it to a dyno, this will pinpoint your very problem, and it will also tune your car properly without double guessing.
How old is your fuel pressure regulator? (Most likey this won't be the problem though.)
If you are running to rich, you might want to check the spark plugs and clean them if needed.

 

Hey thanks!!
Okay well I did have an mf2 mgt system, but I took it off and selling it to go Hondata, my b&m is like 5 yrs old...i heard they are crap, i dunno,I am gonna go to a dyno in mid sept after my hondata and such, i have an msd 6a ignition, ss blaster and msd dizzy.

Also for the IAC, doesnt that only control idle, and also I capped off the collant lines going to the throttle body, I read in another post that that could actually cause the iac to freeze up, and i guess inside the iac is honeycomb shaped things and they could be clogged, or froze when driving...I am going to replace it and maybe reconnect the coolant lines, since my car still is daily driven.

I replaced my wires too. Okay I have lots to check and see......

Thank you to everyone.....more reply's welcome...

Thanks again!!


Modified by fmaxturbochic at 7:06 PM 9/2/2003

 

Definition: "IAC Valve controls the amount of air to bypass the throttle plate when the throttle is closed or at idle position. The IAC Valve opening and the resulting airflow is controlled by the PCM."
(Meaning it is under a load but the key is it controls air inlet at the throttle body position, your idle screw controls your idle, you can adjust that to how ever high or low you want your idle to be.)
In a system the IAC controls your idle with the PCM, but the IAC allows air inlet and the PCM controls how much the IAC lets in and together they control your idle, which your idle is the correct mix of fuel to air, correct spark to fuel, and so on and so on...all systems. Check the IAC correctly you need to ............
Run Your Car, hold the accelerator at about 3,000 rpm until the fan comes on then return it to idle...then you need to disconnect the electrical connecter to the IAC...if your idle speed didn't respond then it is bye bye time for the IAC.

Clear your ECU codes correctly and see if you still get that code coming up or not.
Yucky Spark plugs - TO MUCH FUEL!!!!


Modified by AllMotorMama at 7:21 PM 9/2/2003

 

def. check timing.......is it backfiring out exhaust or intake?

 

okay....well i pulled the plugs today and saw that all the plugs were white tips but black base (thread area), gap was at.035, should i lessen the gap, I actually have my fuel pressure at 42 WOT, so maybe i should tune it down...

As for the iac, i havent done the test yet, i will tho.

the back fire is coming out of the exhaust.

so people...anymore ideas or suggestions...

what does the spark plug color mean? Am i running too lean? it just seams weird cus the threaded area is black....so im running lean then what the hell could the backfire be from????

im just confused right now....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllMotorMama &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">READ ABOVE , MY LAST POST

It Answers The QUESTIONS You Just Wrote..............
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah okay thanks got it...
you say "yucky spark plugs= to much fuel??? but white spark plugs mean lean, black speckles mean detonation, theres a lot still there, just want to know what white tips and black base means.....
im confoosed

 

well the base is always black, you got to look at the electrode and tip part.
this should help you:
http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Pl....html

 

(you did say before you had brown/black crap on your plugs)
In the last couple of days after posting what have you done or worked on , in your car? So now if there white, what did you work on to change that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllMotorMama &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(you did say before you had brown/black crap on your plugs)
In the last couple of days after posting what have you done or worked on , in your car? So now if there white, what did you work on to change that?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i forgot about that..
actually when i put that was like a week or so b4 i checked, then i checked and theyre white...
the only thing i changed hmmmmmm...nothing, i changed my plug wires...thats about it....

 

fmaxturbochic, sup y0 I'm a friend of Gloria's.

Ok, a lot of little information is up in here and not enough is to expose the problem.

You stated, under normal conditions, the car runs just fine. But at low RPM's, backfiring occurs...

Why?

You are running BOTH too rich and too lean. The main reason this is occuring is due to the B&M FPR. I had this problem with back firing when under normal conditions and higher RPM's area, it runs fine, because the A/F ratios are good. But at low RPM's, you run way to rich which at low RPM's. The cause of this is the B&M FPR.

I'd recommend you check your timing, check valve adjustments, and I'm sure you know about your cam timing with the 2mm headgasket.

Do this and see how this works, as this fixed my problem. It's mainly the B&M FPR, but there is a fix for this.

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/regulator/

I am very strict at what kind of info I grab and such, but this does work!

With this fix, I would put idle pressure at about 36 ish and WOT should be in the low 40's area.

keep us posted

 

Ok, White Plugs mean running to hot or to Lean fuel.
Check also for Overadvanced Ignition Timing.
Are you over heating at all?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AllMotorMama &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, White Plugs mean running to hot or to Lean fuel.
Check also for Overadvanced Ignition Timing.
Are you over heating at all?</TD></TR></TABLE>

uumm actually when i climb up really big hills on the fwy, like the 5 going north twds bakersfield and such, i started to get warm, now i thought it was b/c i drilled some holes in my thermostat a while ago...i am going to change it to a colder one.

lean..hmmm see thats what i thought, but i am at 42 WOT on the f.p. gauge