Car: 1999 civic si
engine: b16a2
OK first of all, mods:
ecu: chipped p28
piggy back: vafc
cams: 98 itr
valves, springs, retainers: 98 itr
Block: stock b16a2 with new piston rings and rod bearings
intake: 98 itr
header: DC 4-2-1
cat: custom melted ( I think)
exhaust: Greddy SP
fuel: AEM fuel rail

Ok so here's the problem. Every now and then when I start the car it runs very rough. So rough that the thing won't really want to idle at all. The other day it wouldn't even start. It would crank but no go. Any ideas on where to go first? I was thinking of switching the ecu back out and using my stock ecu first off. Also every now and then it will puff blue smoke right after it is warmed up, after about 10 minutes it doesn't puff smoke. I have been told that this is due to my possibly clogged cat or I have a leaky valve cover gasket( because I have found standing oil on #4 cyl spark plug). Any other ideas on what could be wrong? I really would like to get my car running well again.

 

When you say 98 ITR intake do you mean actual intake or intake manifold? Are you on stock injectors? What ECU program? Have you actually tuned with the VAFC? Are you throwing any codes at all? The company that repalced the rings and such reputable? Try a compression and leak down test, check for vacuum leaks. The smoke sounds somewhat normal upon initial start-up. How does it drive under partial throttle adn WOT?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr Milano &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you say 98 ITR intake do you mean actual intake or intake manifold? Are you on stock injectors? What ECU program? Have you actually tuned with the VAFC? Are you throwing any codes at all? The company that repalced the rings and such reputable? Try a compression and leak down test, check for vacuum leaks. The smoke sounds somewhat normal upon initial start-up. How does it drive under partial throttle adn WOT?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actual intake not the IM. The ECU program is IH8RICERZ all motor N/A program. I have not actually tuned with the vafc yet. No adjustments have been made with the vafc. No codes. Yes he has done rings on lots of hondas, done tons of Honda work and will stand behind the work . I have done a compression check. 1-4; 200, 200, 195, 215. I have checked for vacuum leaks but I will defintely check again. It runs great at half and full throttle. No bogging, good power, just that damn smoke every now and then and now this new problem with how it idles and not wanting to start. Thanx for the reply

 

Any ideas?

 

in reference to the piston rings, how was the motor broken in after the new rings and bearings were installed?

also i was wondering why you are running both the chipped P28 with N/A program and the VAFC?

i would think the chipped ECU would be enough and would keep thing much more simple. i'm not saying that is the solution to the problem you're having though.

how many miles are on the motor since the new parts?

 

Rings were broken in with no vtec for 500 miles. Oil change at 10 miles, and 250 miles. Variation of load always. I would accelerate and let it chill whenever I drove. No periods of constant acceleration. Approx 30000 on head parts that went into the car. Vafc has not been touched. All settings are for 0 correction. The reason I am doing the vafc and the ecu is because I will be fine tuning with vafc, something I cannot do with the ecu itself.

 

well ****, if you have oil on your spark plugs. you really need to change the valve cover gasket that goes around each spark plug hole. u dont need the big one that goes around the hole entire head. just the 4 single ones that match up to each spark plug hole

check your timing and also pull your spark plugs to see the color and shape they are in.

u also might be due for new spark plug wires too

 

There's what the plugs look like.

 

LEAN like a motha *****!

 

Yah man it shouldn't be that white...thats nuts...check out your fuel system cause something is going on to make you run that lean, check your injectors, and your fuel pressure, then check out your afc and see whats happening to your fuel maps, thats definatly not good for the engine though.

-Adrian

 

checking a spark plug after normal driving doesnt mean crap. Needs to be check right after getting on it some. If you do this, and the plug still looks really lean, try adding fuel with the vafc, but no more than 11%. After that, youll throw a CEL and its not adding more fuel anyways.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Casey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Needs to be check right after getting on it some. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yes the best way to check a plug is to go through the powerband and then shut the engine off right away. then check the plugs to see the condition.