I good friend of mine has a 2001 Prelude Type SH and I wanted to you get opinions of the optimal header... what do you guys think and or have ?? Thanks in advance!

 

How much does your friend want to spend and what does he/she want to do with the car.

The absolute best header is a custom job from hi-tech. It'll run around $1300 and take at least 3 months to make. http://www.hytechexhaust.com

The best off the shelf header is probably the Mugen header. It's around $950-975 depending on where you get it from.

Other than that there's nuespeed and DC, which are probably the only other two I would bother looking at (until Greddy releases their header for the 5th gen, you can use a 4th gen Greddy header with some modification).

Stay away from brands like Hotshot, Kamakize and Pacesetter.

Gabe

 

Thanks. I will forward this info to her. I am trying to talk her into a mugen since that is what I run on my type r.

 

Mugen.. yummy....

 

I agree! That's why I have both the header AND the exhaust!!

 

why would you waste your money on a Mugen header for a 2001 SH when it's only going to give you a few extera hp.. Power mods on OBDII cars DON'T do crap. You get a little power, but hardly anything. The new cars are built so much better and efficient now that on most Hondas, adding parts does not make them faster.

Hell, I saw an S2000 in a mag where the moron who owned it spend like $10,000 in mods. He had suspension stuff too, but he had every imaginable bolt on for the motor. His car was like .1 or .2 seconds faster to 60 than a stock one. Talk about waste of money.

back when I was in high school, I had a first gen RX7. No turbo, no supercharger. Just a normally aspirated 1.2L 12A rotary. I bought a racing beat exhaust/header combo, bolted it on, and holy ****. My car probalby had an HONEST 25-30 hp gain. MAJOR. I added electronic ignition, a minor port job, lighter flywheel, and rejetted the carb and it was doing consistent 6.5 second 1/4 mile runs and woudl eat up all non turbo RX7s, even the new ones, whcih at the time were 1989-1990 models. (not 3rd gens for you youngsters.. we didn'et have those yet)

those were the days. you would bolt on a $300 exhaust and your car woudl literally be a different car. My rX did 0-60 in like 9-10 seconds in stock form. For less than $1500 I made it a sub 7 second car.

you can't do that with todays cars.

so why waste your money.

now, suspension mods are a different story and so is forced induction. but intake/header/exhaust...it's really all about sound and you might get a few extra horses.

I have an AEM and that gave a few hp, but it was CHEAP. I would NEVER spend the big $$ for stuff like exhaust/headers, expecially MUGEN, which is a ripoff... and get a measly few hp gain.

if you want to spend that money, go get NOS or FI. you'll actually see gains.

sorry to rant, but I hate to see people waste their money thinking their car is gonna haul *** when it isn't going to do hardly anything.

 

Yeah cause you'll make a ton more power with the stock i/h/e combo when you go FI or spray. The stock parts suck, period. If you would take the time to look at the stock header compared to virtually any aftermarket header you'd see a huge difference in design and construction. I do agree it won't get you a lot but it does help with future mods.

Gabe


[Modified by Gabe, 1:11 PM 8/16/2001]

 

I'm not so sure how bad the factory parts SUCK? If you look at teh primaries from a Neuspeed or DC ehader there actually smaller then the stock manifold. However the merges are much better and the downpipes seem to have the same smooth merges. I understand that an I/H/E combo does add soem hp to a certain degree but for the $2200 a Mugen Header/Exhaust/ and AEM inake will cost you I'd save my cash and be half way to a JRSC. I added a Iceman CAI/Neuspeed Header/Thermal catback exhaust and I'm yet to beat my quickest 1/4 times which I ran STOCK.

 

I actually heard from someone that bought the DC header that side by side w/ the stocker, he couldn't see any difference...

Interestingly tho, http://www.ntpog.org has a little section about disabling the 'learning' feature on OBDII that seems to allow it to correct out all the gains from bolt on parts... If I still had my 'lude, I'd probably give it a shot.

Paul

 

have any of you guys done that NTPOG OBDII bypass mod??? did it do anything??

 

bump, curious