Opinions on this roll bar wanted
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...05551
I emailed the seller asking for pics of the rear mount points, and if it was aproved by any organization, but what are opinions on it now? Is it a real roll bar, or is it just "monkey/show bars"? The front mount point looks alittle weak.
If I get it I want to add a harness bar and side impact bars, but starting with something like that would be easier than making the whole thing.
-Dustin
I emailed the seller asking for pics of the rear mount points, and if it was aproved by any organization, but what are opinions on it now? Is it a real roll bar, or is it just "monkey/show bars"? The front mount point looks alittle weak.
If I get it I want to add a harness bar and side impact bars, but starting with something like that would be easier than making the whole thing.
-Dustin
I was actually thinking about picking one of those up. Mostly for show and to have something to strap my harness to (after I weld in a cross brace). I highly doubt that it is approved by any organizations or else they would mention it in the ad.
If you don't have a welder you're still going to have to pay somebody to put that thing together. It looks like it's just for show. The feedback is pretty good but I doubt those customers are into hardcore racing. You can pick up a complete autopower roll bar for like 300. I would rather have an autopower.
Hey maybe we can do a groupbuy. I wouldn't mind picking 1 up for cheap though.
If you don't have a welder you're still going to have to pay somebody to put that thing together. It looks like it's just for show. The feedback is pretty good but I doubt those customers are into hardcore racing. You can pick up a complete autopower roll bar for like 300. I would rather have an autopower.
Hey maybe we can do a groupbuy. I wouldn't mind picking 1 up for cheap though.
You will me much happier in the long run if you get something from Autopower or Kirk. Both are very good off the shelf products, they fit well, they meet the various santioning body requirements, etc.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steve91 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You will me much happier in the long run if you get something from Autopower or Kirk. Both are very good off the shelf products, they fit well, they meet the various santioning body requirements, etc. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree. But if you wanna be a cheap *** (like me) the guy agreed to a group buy. $149 and reduced shipping costs.
bling bling
I agree. But if you wanna be a cheap *** (like me) the guy agreed to a group buy. $149 and reduced shipping costs.
http://www.kirkracing.com/page3.html
Wow, if the CRX one is similar to the integra one, and that price, it is a steal.
I really want side impact protection, but that can always be added later.
-Dustin
Wow, if the CRX one is similar to the integra one, and that price, it is a steal.
I really want side impact protection, but that can always be added later.
-Dustin
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Well, you would need to add a cross brace before you could expect any real rollover protection from that bar. You would also benefit from adding a harness bar. By the time you've done both of those things, you haven't saved any money or time. They mention the diameter of the tubing, but not the thickness so it's hard to say how strong it is or what the quality of the steel is. Also, the rear support tubes look similar to a design that Kirk used to use before they started having problems passing tech at SCCA events, although I don't think anyone has ever really proven that the bent rear supports don't hold. Still, straight is better in theory. Overall, that bar should be legal for autocross, but not very useful. It would not be legal for any road racing events...not even solo I since there is no cross brace. Spend the extra $150 and do it right if you have any desire to make your car safer. That's a lot of weight to add for no added safety.
Responses from the Ebay Seller (seems like a nice guy
)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-What type and size of tubing is used (wall thickness)?
1 1/2 120 wall hwd tubing.
-What racing organization(s) have/has approved it's design?
I have never look into this
-Where are the mounting points (pics if possable please)?
behind rear tire and behind seat.
-Are there any options available (harness bar/6pt conversion kit)?
I can do a rear hoop for the 6 point for another $30.00
</TD></TR></TABLE>
-Dustin
)<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">-What type and size of tubing is used (wall thickness)?
1 1/2 120 wall hwd tubing.
-What racing organization(s) have/has approved it's design?
I have never look into this
-Where are the mounting points (pics if possable please)?
behind rear tire and behind seat.
-Are there any options available (harness bar/6pt conversion kit)?
I can do a rear hoop for the 6 point for another $30.00
</TD></TR></TABLE>
-Dustin
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krustindumm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">After looking at the auto power I see a problem, I really want to keep my rear speakers.
-Dustin</TD></TR></TABLE>
Kirk
-Dustin</TD></TR></TABLE>
Kirk
CRX' really don't need rear speakers. You could get a set of good ones in the front and just use a pair of tweeters for rear fill. But I can't really talk because I have 5 1/4" infinity seperates in the front and 6 1/2' alpine DDDrive seperates in the rear.
Another option is mount speakers on the trunk cover. Maybe a pair of 6x9s for some good midbass. I've seen it on a few CRX' and EF hatches and it looks pretty clean
Another option is mount speakers on the trunk cover. Maybe a pair of 6x9s for some good midbass. I've seen it on a few CRX' and EF hatches and it looks pretty clean
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