Is it safe to run your yellow/GC combo on the stock perches like this?

 

i run the perches that were included with the koni shocks....but that's b/c my sleeves didn't *quite* fit over the snap rings....long story....and i don't have GC sleeves, I have carrera sleeves

 

heh, yeah. well thanks for input

 

NO!

The rears actually will work with the stock hardware Koni provides, but no way for the fronts.

The idiot I bought my GC from ran them this way and one of the threaded bodies was so chewed up it was almost impossible to adjust the perch. AKA .. it was moving around so much I am surprised something didn't break!

Order the proper parts from GC for Koni, they are only $15 per corner.

 

I'm not understanding what I am supposed to be looking for. Can someone explain it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 96 SOHC VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not understanding what I am supposed to be looking for. Can someone explain it? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Konis come with a metal ring for a spring perch or the sleeves to sit on. Currently, the sleeve is just sitting on the perch - this is a no-no. What you are supposed to do is either buy the application specific perches *or* buy the plastic ring that fits inside the sleeve to make it sit flush on/around the shock body so it doesnt flop around. The silver perches are for putting stock or stock-style coil springs on the shock.

 

Ah, thanks. I know what you are talking about now. It has three settings right? I just wasn't seeing it in the picture. Thanks.

 

anyone ever have any problems w/ the springs rubbing the threaded sleeves on properly installed koni/GC setups?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hunter &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone ever have any problems w/ the springs rubbing the threaded sleeves on properly installed koni/GC setups?</TD></TR></TABLE>

If this happens they're probably flopping around when unloaded. Time for longer springs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If this happens they're probably flopping around when unloaded. Time for longer springs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

8" fronts, 7" rears

 

Be very careful. It is possible to split the bottom of the sleeve. At least this is true using Skunk2 sleeves and the stamped perches. The way you have them may be OK. However, I would suggest you contact Koni and order the special adaptor plates for each shock, so that the sleeve rests on the plate and it sits on the C-clip. That is what I did and I have no problems with the setup..

 

does the "flopping around" still happen on...lets say...Tokico's? or KYB's? they both have the same style perch but they are welded instead of adjustable like konis.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JOEY F. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does the "flopping around" still happen on...lets say...Tokico's? or KYB's? they both have the same style perch but they are welded instead of adjustable like konis. </TD></TR></TABLE>

shouldn't make a difference

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPiFF &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NO!

The rears actually will work with the stock hardware Koni provides, but no way for the fronts.

The idiot I bought my GC from ran them this way and one of the threaded bodies was so chewed up it was almost impossible to adjust the perch. AKA .. it was moving around so much I am surprised something didn't break!

Order the proper parts from GC for Koni, they are only $15 per corner.</TD></TR></TABLE>


alright, thanks for the input
also.
about the 15 per corner. I was also told I would have to buy new sleeves to fit the koni + the adapters. is that true?

 

It did on my old KYBs.

Installation instructions for KYBs/Tokicos/OEM shocks never said anything about modifying any perches to make the sleeve sit correctly. (This may have been updated since.) I had a "knocking" sound in the rear that drove me nuts until I did it right with Konis and Koni-specific GC sleeves. I wasted a lot of money replacing parts that never needed replacing to try to cure that noise.

 

There are two key things to make any brand sleeve system work with the KONIs.

1) Make sure that the inside diameter of the sleeve matches the outside daimeter of the shocks (8041 series is 42mm OD) so that there is no opportunity to shift or rattle. Most brands of sleeve are larger in ID so they fit over a variety of shcok brands but therefore are really a perfect fit for none. If the sleeve ID is too big, find a way to properly, solidly reduce the ID like using an adapter ring that you might buy or have made. Make sure that this adapter goes far enough up inside the sleeve that the entire sleeve length stays in place.

2) Make sure that you have a proper way to for the KONI spring seat circlip to be loaded by the spring/sleeve package so the load is perpendicular and square to the shocks body and that the circlip itself is captured or swallowed into the ring, adapter, sleeve, etc. so that it can't expand. If the ring does not go up inside at least a little bit and thus the sides and ends of the circlips are exposed, expect the worst.

If the sleeve is the right diameter for the shock and the clip is captured and loaded squarely, any brand of threaded sleeve system will work fine and the circlip will bear many, many tons of force and load.

Personally, I prefer to do away entirely with all of the silver OE spring seats when using a drop on sleeve system as there is no need for the burden or the weight of those pieces being there, they just complicate matters and don't look tidy to me.

KONI makes sleeves that are a perfect fit and capture the ring, Ground Control makes their own version and anyone with access to a lathe or decent metal fab and half a brain can come up with a sure fire system. The rear shocks shown have a flat ring that is a fine platform and has a recessed groove to capture the circlip so long as you have the ID-OD a proper fit. These rings can be purchased easily to work on the front units as well. in that case, the cup shaped stoick spring perch is unneeded. It is really not hard at all but you'd be amazed at how many people screw it up.

Problems only come when the system loads unevenly and/or the circlip is not captured or when the diameters don't fit.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ransack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


alright, thanks for the input
also.
about the 15 per corner. I was also told I would have to buy new sleeves to fit the koni + the adapters. is that true?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Last I checked it was $10 per corner.

 

I was qouted alittle over 100 for adapters and new sleeves that fit the konis.

do I need the sleeves?

 

yeah it should be safe,

you should only need that adapter kit if you want the perches to go really low(like lower than where the koni perch comes up passed the gc sleeve)

hope you get what i mean.
but from your pic, I can tell you dont need it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah it should be safe,

you should only need that adapter kit if you want the perches to go really low(like lower than where the koni perch comes up passed the gc sleeve)

hope you get what i mean.
but from your pic, I can tell you dont need it</TD></TR></TABLE>

no... its not safe. You do need it.

 

I just installed my GC/KONI setup yesterday it would of been earlier but they only sent me two of those rubber perches that the spring seats on. You really do need them I wouldn't rest riding around without them. It probably would ride like crap with the rubber perches.