The motor is in the machine shop right now. It is a 2000 b18c1. So this is what I have:
Darton 84mm sleeves
JE 12.5.1 84mm pistons and rings
P+P head
SK2 stage 2 cams
SK2 valvesprings and retainers
SK2 intake manifold
ARP head studs
Cometic head gasket
255hp Walbro Fuel pump
AEM fuelrail and regulator
To be hondata Tuned..

Now my questions:
What size injectors?
I am getting Farrea Valves. Can I go oversized?? or should I stick with stock size?
Do I need cam gears??
Which TB to get?
Comptech Race Header? yes? or no?

I have alot of money into this project. Acutally alot more than I anticipated. Any help input or advice would be greatly appreciated. TIA

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TGUNNER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Now my questions:
What size injectors?
I am getting Farrea Valves. Can I go oversized?? or should I stick with stock size?
Do I need cam gears??
Which TB to get?
Comptech Race Header? yes? or no?
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1) Well since most injectors cost about the same, just get like 550cc's..you can run DSM 440's if you want with a resistor box. Or there are always groub buys and good deals on used injectors. Honestly it doesn't matter. Anything above 330cc should be fine.

2) Stock sized ITR Valves should be fine, there's no need to spend more money on ferrea valves or in going oversized. Stock ITR!

3) You don't need them, but you might be able to extract some extra power with them. You just have to be conservative with the cam timing, b/c the cams are pretty big and if you advance or retard too much you could possibly have piston-valve contact.

4) Comptech Race header is cool, but for the money you can also look into HeaderTech and ANR...I personally have a headertech, and it's a work of art!

Hope I helped.

 

Since Max aint gonna help you out with the TB, I will . Get an Ericks Racing TB.

 

Thanks for the reply!! Yeah people were telling me I didnt need cam gears, I thought they were pulling my leg. Thanks for clearing this up. I could get a prety good deal on the Comptech race header thats why I was asking about that.
What is the difference between gsr and type R valves if any?? thanks again..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AussieB20vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since Max aint gonna help you out with the TB, I will . Get an Ericks Racing TB.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well if I dont have to buy camgears and valves the extra money is lookin might good for the ER TB..

thanks!!

 

The Erick's Racing TB is very expensive. It's made for Erick by RPM Services, I reccommend you buy it from them. It's the same thing, and costs alot less. http://www.an-r.com has them for $295, and the occasional special price of $275.00

I've never actually weighed them , but from what i understand ITR valves are a little bit lighter then stock gsr valves...

You can get them for $189.00/Set

 

good thread on valves.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=539869

 

ITR valves are a little lighter then the rest of the B-Series intake valves. Intake only though not exhaust.

Skunk2 doesn't recomend using oversize valves with there 2 or 3 cams for PTV clearance issues.

Whichever TB you decide to get make sure you port match your manifold

As far as injectors go actually they bigger you go they get like a dollar and some change more expensive each. For example saturated start at 160cc for $76.50 and go up to 550cc for $90 soemthing. I think 500+ cc injectors would be kinds overkill if you ask me. DSM 450's is a cheap alternative, but I still think to much.

What are you using will decide this. I mean if you have Hondata you could get away with running 440's, but you wouldn't need anything more then that. I would say 310's or 370's. IMHO. I'm using 310's on an 85mm 12.5:1 B16 w/ Stage 2's. If I deicde to go LS/CRV I may step up to 370's. Plenty with a 190 pump too.

 

WOW!! Thanks everyone for making this a little eaiser and less exspensive for me.. Anyone else feel free to chime in with any other helpful information. Im gonna keep posting on the process of my build up.

 

They're were delphi 550cc injectors, which don't require a resistor box, bolt in to a honda, and were balanced and flow tested for 220shipped in the group buy forum. That's what I'm using!

dont get 310cc's, if for some reason your motor goes very well, it won't be hard to max them out...

There's no reason to run anything under 370cc, u can idle them fine with hondata.

440cc DSM's are dirt cheap $50.00 for all 4...I'd go with those and a $30 Honda resistor box...

Good luck!

 

for injectors i would go anywhere from 370cc-440cc.....550cc might be a lil too big

 

Kinda OT here, but your set up sounds a lot like what I'm looking to do to mine. If you don't mind me asking, how much did you spend? I have a very high mileage c1 in my hatch so I need to do a rebuild either way, so might as well do it right.

Chris

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JapTendencies &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Kinda OT here, but your set up sounds a lot like what I'm looking to do to mine. If you don't mind me asking, how much did you spend? I have a very high mileage c1 in my hatch so I need to do a rebuild either way, so might as well do it right.
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lets see here Sleeves, Pistons and Rods around $1500 Cams, Valve springs, retainers, intake manifold $1400 thats $2900 right there.

I still need TB $300 Injectors $300 good header $1000 Hondata and tuning $1500 + all New (just to be safe) oem Acura parts Water pump, Timing belt + tensioner, oil pump and pan (bc myne is damaged) and all gaskets. Thats probably anther $500. Oh yeah and machine work bore set sleeves P+P head and assemble block and head at least $2000. So all this equals $4600.
$4600
<U>$2900</U>
$7500 = Please just shoot me

Hope this answers your question..