Hello All. As the topic says, I FINALLY have my new H22 in but it's not running right. All of the electrical is spot on, all of the ignition is working fine, so i have narrowed the problem down to either fuel pressure or the ECU.

here's the case: It is a JDM S-Spec H22 out of an SiR Prelude. it starts awesome, runs awesome at idle, isn't throwing and CELs, and when you jump on the gas at idle the revs rocket up (as they are supposed to), but when you hop in and drive it around town, it's like it has the old motor in it (half the horsepower) if that! it doesn't ping, it doesn't pop and crack like it's running lean, and the computer is a P5M JDM H22 unit. i am running US stock injectors and have all the EGR and smog equipment hooked up.

All the compression tests were awesome, and the leakdown tests were too. There's no vacuum leaks, everything is perfectly in spec according to Helms and there's no issues with the transmission. The LSD is operating fine and everything else seems to be as well. i have it narrowed down to fuel pressure and ECU because it feels like the ECU is retarding the timing like 20-degrees. you know? that sluggish feeling. And it passes smog as is. basically nothing, so i know the cat is working overtime heating up from all the excess fuel being dumped into it. i am using the FPR from the Accord BUT it has a B&M top so it has been adjusted to 38 p.s.i. to match the prelude base line. But would that be an issue once you get one it? does the Accord unit put in too much fuel for the H22? Is the rising rate ratio different from the F22 to the H22?

it's not in limp mode either. i have had a serious port and polish done and rebuilt the top end, but that should have anything to do with this, would it? oversize valves and the like as well. The cam gears are set at Zero, and the base timing is set to OEM. do you guys have any help for me, as i need to have this running by the end of friday. i have one guy who's going to overnight me an ECU to use so i can check that, but if that doesnt' do it, what do you all think? and thanks in advance!!!


Modified by iakona at 5:50 AM 8/27/2003


Modified by iakona at 5:52 AM 8/27/2003

 

what kind of cams?

it sounds like you are in dire need of real tuning

 

could it be the fuel pump not being able to keep up with the new demand of the motors fuel needs.

 

The cams are all stock JDM S-Spec. It's a full JDM motor, only did top end work and the full titanium valvetrain.

Could it be the fuel pump? Would I be able to tell by the pressure under full throttle?

And YES, i am in need of some super duper tuning. I agree wholeheartedly!!!

 

prepare to fork up some $$ for dyno time. Seriously though, that's about the only way you're going to get it where you want it to be, and you'll find a lot of your problems very quickly on a dyno...you may find that it isn't a problem and that you just thought it'd be faster than what it really is. H22s don't exactly make an Accord a ferrari as I'm sure you already know anyway......so it could be that it's just psychological. My advice is to take it down to the dyno and check it all out

- Nathan

 

check your distributor... mine started to go bad, but it was still making enough spark to keep the car going but like you said it felt like it was running on half the horses.

 

Who did the PnP?

An inexperienced machinist can perform a PnP that will actually hurt the performance.

I'd say you need to get on a dyno and tune the ****.

 

thanks for the ideas guys!! to all y'all!

keep 'em coming. i've only got one day to get this sucker running right before my road trip back to LA.

 

yea man, you have a serious problem going there if you feel as if you are only getting half the proper horsepower, well a dyno is a necessity, that should be your first step, then check your plugs etc... check the distributor spark, then check the fuel pump, the check your O2 sensors, check everything you think can electrically cut performance, im sure you can get to the bottom of it, does it drive bad, or under acceleration its not moving? how fast can the thing go?

 

the spark is cool, but i am going to recheck the distributor issue that Elkins911 brought up. the O2 sensors are from the Accord, but they should read the same, it's just voltage to the ECU based on the temperature in the exhaust. i'm just worried about the timing. i am not sure how to diagnose that either because it's all electronic and you can't really test the load unless you're really on it while driving.
i am not sure how to diagnose the fuel pump problem, so any help in that are would be greatly appreciated!!
and YES, dyno time will for sure be in my super near future. just have to find one willing to help me out.

And thanks for the well wishes guys, I plan on screaming the hell out of this thing once it's up and running and the clutch is broken in (hence the road trip). video and everything for you guys for helping me out.

 

bump for me for the night...

 

uh i just skimmed the thread but i didnt see an ECU code so what ECU are you using...

oddly enough i had this exact thing happen once..guy brought the kord in jdm h22..freakin f22b1 ecu under the floor.

you can ghetto check the timming 5th gear 30mph listen for pingin if ping time off lol

 

just wondering... what year is the motor and what year is the car? my swap was easy. motor went in.... used the accord wire harness... everything else was stock... p13 ecu. ran perfect. its not your pump. i would suggest bigger inj. us inj are like 270cc while the jdm's are suppose to be 345. my friend had an integra w/ an h22 w/ 310cc... bogged all the time. i let him use my stock 345cc and it ran perfect. or its your ecu... whats a pm5?

 

i am using a JDM P5M. It came with the motor. The injector size is 270cc, as you say, but that matches with the ECU. The P13 is a different type of injector (saturated vs. peak and hold), hence the different injector ccs. the motor is a 1998 S-Spec (TypeS basically)

the car is a 1997 USDM Accord. You're right, physically, the swap wasn't that bad, but there is wiring to add to the harness as it used to be an LX. I cannot run a P13, as it has to be California compliant, so a 1997 or newer ECU is to be used. Your buddy who was running 310s was probably running the wrong type of injectors, but even if he wasn't, the factory size injectors for the P13 ECU is 345cc, hence you issues and how they were solved with the right size injectors. The P5M is the Prelude ECU from 1998+.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iakona &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i am using a JDM P5M. It came with the motor. The injector size is 270cc, as you say, but that matches with the ECU. The P13 is a different type of injector (saturated vs. peak and hold), hence the different injector ccs. the motor is a 1998 S-Spec (TypeS basically) </TD></TR></TABLE>

P5M is out of the 97+ lude,, that has the immobilzer in it and as well as that sport shifter crap? you think that could be it? it might be in SS mode?

you might need to go to emmissions and pass then put in a obd2-1 harness and run it that way: go back to a simple ECU

Upgrade your Fuel pump too. i cant express this enough.. the accord one is made for the accord, yes you can use it on accord with mods. but when you start doubling power and output.. *ok i know its not truely doubled but you know what i mean* dual cams and other stuff. put a lot of strain on it..

 

Hey KTeller8. The P5P is the one that has all of the sport shifter crap on it. yeah, stayed away from that one. I hope that's not it, and i don't think it is because it shifts fine and the transmission is cool too. for emissions, we'll see. i'd like to get it running good on the stock ECU and then we'll see about upgrading.

as for the fuel pump, i have one waiting in case that's the case, hopefully not because it is a PITA to drop the tank and replace in the 5th gen Accords. (and yes, it is double the output almost of my F22B2)

 

NEW UPDATE

Drove it again this afternoon. It's getting enough fuel, but it feels like the timing is being retarded by the ECU. It is a JDM ECU, don't know if that has anything to do with it, but it shouldn't. i know guys who are running these ECUs on 89 octane. I have to get the ECU un-Immobilized before i can test it out, and then we will see. it is running rich, but isn't smoking black out the back like it would if it were running super super rich. and i ran it with no cat and that seemed to perk it up some, but still, between idle and VTEC kick in, it just pulls like it's an F22, not an H22. The LSD is fine, it shifts great. can't do too much because the clutch isn't broken in yet, but i need to figure this out. Any more help guys?

p.s. -- and you H22 guys, do you have a wicked shake all through the car at idle and up to like 1350 RPM?

 

yeah that p5p your right


and oh .. no shaking for me?
&lt; 96 h22 in accord

 

are you using obd1 injectors and the resistor pack?
if so the obd2 ecu does not require that, it has an injector driver for saturated injectors rather than peak and hold. I dont know if the performance will be compromised by that but the long term effects on teh system cannot be as good. I would recommend matching the saturated injector driver with with right saturated injectors (290cc or 280cc is the figure i see most often quoted) out of the 97+ lude, since the obd1 ones are peak and hold 345cc ones.