d16 9,000 red line? can it be easily acheived???
I am building my d16z6 as of now and will turbo it once the motor is broken in. Obviously it will benifit from higher revs once turbo (dont know if the stock cam will produce power past 7.2k)
anyways this is my list of the build up so far
balanced factory rods crank and pistons
JE rings
arp head and bolt studs
honda gasket kit (top and bottom)
honed sleeves
ported and dimpled head....polished exhaust ports
the hitch is i can grab a set of skunk2 springs and ti retainers for 200 bucks
is it worth the money to put this in the head, my main worry is the cylinder sleeves walking and high rms, and even if it will hold would I truely benifit from this mod.
and no! i will not use a blockguard
anyways this is my list of the build up so far
balanced factory rods crank and pistons
JE rings
arp head and bolt studs
honda gasket kit (top and bottom)
honed sleeves
ported and dimpled head....polished exhaust ports
the hitch is i can grab a set of skunk2 springs and ti retainers for 200 bucks
is it worth the money to put this in the head, my main worry is the cylinder sleeves walking and high rms, and even if it will hold would I truely benifit from this mod.
and no! i will not use a blockguard
honda went much farther than you to achieve a durable, reliable 8000rpm redline on a b16 or b18C. Oil squirters, thicker rods I'm sure.....I mean, hell, doesn't the b16 weigh 100lbs more than a d16?
Anyways, they went even farther with a b18c5 for an extra 400rpm. Coated pistons, different crank, lighter valves, different crank bearings, and god knows what else....
Ultimately I'm not sure if your d16 will pull 9000rpms, but I am sure it will not pull it for very long.
Dimpled head? What/ why's that?
Anyways, they went even farther with a b18c5 for an extra 400rpm. Coated pistons, different crank, lighter valves, different crank bearings, and god knows what else....
Ultimately I'm not sure if your d16 will pull 9000rpms, but I am sure it will not pull it for very long.
Dimpled head? What/ why's that?
he's talking about putting dimples in the inake ports of the head, around the top, so when the injector squirts in fuel, it atomizes more effeciantally. read about it on endyn's website.
all your responses where what I was expecting. The only reason this crossed my mind was the great price on the valvetrain components. I guess I will just have to up the boost a bit and live in the sub 8 zone.
ohh and yeah we dimpled the intake ports on my friends car, dont have a comparison but it did pull much harder with the porting and I can only assume the dimples were an asset and not a detrement to the head
ohh and yeah we dimpled the intake ports on my friends car, dont have a comparison but it did pull much harder with the porting and I can only assume the dimples were an asset and not a detrement to the head
yeah, better be quiet or the R/S ratio police will come gripe.
Everyone grips about the R/S ratio in the LS motors, but the D16s are even worse.
Me, I'm happy with my LS..
Everyone grips about the R/S ratio in the LS motors, but the D16s are even worse.
Me, I'm happy with my LS..
9K on a d16 is not problem... just get that valvetrain so you dont have the stock worn out valvetrain on there.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by haggar »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, better be quiet or the R/S ratio police will come gripe.
Everyone grips about the R/S ratio in the LS motors, but the D16s are even worse.
Me, I'm happy with my LS..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hardly at all. They both suck.
D16 = 137mm rod / 90mm stroke = 1.52 R/S ratio
LS = 137mm rod / 88.9 mm stroke = 1.54 R/S ratio
Everyone grips about the R/S ratio in the LS motors, but the D16s are even worse.
Me, I'm happy with my LS..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Hardly at all. They both suck.
D16 = 137mm rod / 90mm stroke = 1.52 R/S ratio
LS = 137mm rod / 88.9 mm stroke = 1.54 R/S ratio
I could truly be showing my ignorance in this regard.
But, I never thought a certain "redline" was something to strive for.
Is this a correct assumption?
Shouldn't the goal be torque, power, ET, trap times, lap times, etc?
And just let the redline fall where it will. It seems like building for a certain "redline" is putting the cart before the horse, sort of speak.LOL
If you need x amount of y to achieve z then you build it that way and, whatever the redline is at that point so be it. Right?
I don't think F1 engine designers set out to build 18k redline enginges, that's just where there quest for speed took them.
But, I never thought a certain "redline" was something to strive for.
Is this a correct assumption?
Shouldn't the goal be torque, power, ET, trap times, lap times, etc?
And just let the redline fall where it will. It seems like building for a certain "redline" is putting the cart before the horse, sort of speak.LOL
If you need x amount of y to achieve z then you build it that way and, whatever the redline is at that point so be it. Right?
I don't think F1 engine designers set out to build 18k redline enginges, that's just where there quest for speed took them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skribblah »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">he's talking about putting dimples in the inake ports of the head, around the top, so when the injector squirts in fuel, it atomizes more effeciantally. read about it on endyn's website.</TD></TR></TABLE>
he may give a good technical hypothesis reasoning for it but I personally don't belive in it untill I see it work, test, R & D writeups.
he may give a good technical hypothesis reasoning for it but I personally don't belive in it untill I see it work, test, R & D writeups.
I would just be more worried about the length of the stroke..not so much the R/S ratio. THe bad R/S ratio will make the engine wear faster....but just imagine the piston speeds and accelerations when you are talking about a 90mm stroke and 9,000 rpms.
The stress on the rods, rod bolts will be crazy.
The stress on the rods, rod bolts will be crazy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HXMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would just be more worried about the length of the stroke..not so much the R/S ratio. THe bad R/S ratio will make the engine wear faster....but just imagine the piston speeds and accelerations when you are talking about a 90mm stroke and 9,000 rpms.
The stress on the rods, rod bolts will be crazy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Rod and stroke together (R/S ratio) is what determines piston speeds. Stroke alone does not matter, a shorter rod can make up for it and slow down the piston speed some. This is why R/S ratio is what matters most. Not just the stroke.
The stress on the rods, rod bolts will be crazy.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Rod and stroke together (R/S ratio) is what determines piston speeds. Stroke alone does not matter, a shorter rod can make up for it and slow down the piston speed some. This is why R/S ratio is what matters most. Not just the stroke.
to reply about the rev comment. I have a turbo car, the boost continously builds with the volumetric flow rate, the faster the motor spins the more air flow going to the turbo increases thus allowing more "time" to use the turbo in each gear.
I may be wrong, but I may be right
I may be wrong, but I may be right
My biggest problem with your quest for higher revs, (and more power if you modify the valvetrain, camshaft, and cylinder head to pass the volume of air required), is that stock connecting rods and pistons are not going to stay together for those high rpm's. Engine speed is the biggest factor in the failure of the recipricating parts. I would not use the the stock honda D16 rods if I was going to exceed the stock redline. I also would go to aftermarket rods and pistons if I was going to exceed 7 or 8 psi of boost. The conn. rods will fail. Save your money and build a good bottom end and then work the engine speeds and boost up. It will save you many dollars in the long run.
agreed. im pretty sure that the d16 rods are only good for about 200whp. if u plan on running enough boost to put you car over that, or if u are just a little shy of 200, but are revving the boosted motor to 9grand, i would definatly get new rods and rodbolts.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rod and stroke together (R/S ratio) is what determines piston speeds. Stroke alone does not matter, a shorter rod can make up for it and slow down the piston speed some. This is why R/S ratio is what matters most. Not just the stroke.</TD></TR></TABLE>
R/S ratio has an effect on piston speeds/ accelerations, but it's very small. Given an rpm, the biggest factor BY FAR is stroke.
R/S ratio has an effect on piston speeds/ accelerations, but it's very small. Given an rpm, the biggest factor BY FAR is stroke.
i asked this sort of question awhile ago at a diffrent forum
the bottom line was that an engine wont make power at an rpm that will blow up the engine, so if you dont make power past 7000, then dont bother worrying about a 9k redline.
also i hear the rods from an LS into a D = good stuff
the bottom line was that an engine wont make power at an rpm that will blow up the engine, so if you dont make power past 7000, then dont bother worrying about a 9k redline.
also i hear the rods from an LS into a D = good stuff
Wow...this post is back from the dead!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Rod and stroke together (R/S ratio) is what determines piston speeds. Stroke alone does not matter, a shorter rod can make up for it and slow down the piston speed some. This is why R/S ratio is what matters most. Not just the stroke.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think you have that backwards. A longer rod may slow down piston speed a little(not a shorter rod), but not by an amount worth it.
If anything a better R/S ratio is going to give you longer dwell time at TDC and BDC. Higher R/S ratio also leads to less sidewall stress.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Rod and stroke together (R/S ratio) is what determines piston speeds. Stroke alone does not matter, a shorter rod can make up for it and slow down the piston speed some. This is why R/S ratio is what matters most. Not just the stroke.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think you have that backwards. A longer rod may slow down piston speed a little(not a shorter rod), but not by an amount worth it.
If anything a better R/S ratio is going to give you longer dwell time at TDC and BDC. Higher R/S ratio also leads to less sidewall stress.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HXMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow...this post is back from the dead!
I think you have that backwards. A longer rod may slow down piston speed a little(not a shorter rod), but not by an amount worth it.
If anything a better R/S ratio is going to give you longer dwell time at TDC and BDC. Higher R/S ratio also leads to less sidewall stress.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow, back from the dead. Yeah I did have it backwards that night though. Brain wasn't functioning right. Too much
I think you have that backwards. A longer rod may slow down piston speed a little(not a shorter rod), but not by an amount worth it.
If anything a better R/S ratio is going to give you longer dwell time at TDC and BDC. Higher R/S ratio also leads to less sidewall stress.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wow, back from the dead. Yeah I did have it backwards that night though. Brain wasn't functioning right. Too much
this is correct, the longer the stroke is the more lateral movement is created and can cause cylinder walk or wall stress. Thats why most long stroke engines are torque monsters and dont rev very high to elliminate the harmonic vibrations.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Too much
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mmmm....I could use some tonight!
Too much
</TD></TR></TABLE>Mmmm....I could use some tonight!
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