need a little help with engine building
I know this is the all motor board but I have a question about engine building, I am going to be getting my del sol stored for the winter and having the b16a popped out and worked on over the winter. I am going to have eagle rods, JE pistons, skunk2 stage 2 cams, skunk2 valve springs/retainers, edelbrock intake manifold, BBK 70mm throttle body, adj cam gears, hondata s200, .20 over bore, 3 angle valve job, CAI, and a few other knick knack things done. Question I have is what else could I do while making it still able to except forced induction good. I am running out of things to do. Just wanna make sure I have the motor totally built by end of winter. Mainly my goal is build my motor as much as I can while keeping it street able and then whenever I did my best I can then imma run something like maybe a turbo/nitrous in a year if I decide to. Any information would be great.
on a motor built for boost or juice the comp is usually lower due to the high cyl pressures.You can build for N/A or those but you wont get the most power by doing it.You'll be limited on the amount of boost or nitrious you can use because of this.
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,828
Likes: 1
From: Woodbridge, NJ, Middlesex
I think i read it right that you are planning to go the forced induction route. By ".20" over I believe you meant .020" with is 0.5mm overbore. This is too thin for forced induction on stock sleeves; max you should go if the sleeves do need overboring is 0.25mm or .010"
You also should get a blockguard, ARP headstuds and at least stainless steel exhaust valves along with Portflow or Endyn valvesprings and some titanium retainers for the head. I'd stay away from the skunk2 stuff.
Good luck,
Greg
You also should get a blockguard, ARP headstuds and at least stainless steel exhaust valves along with Portflow or Endyn valvesprings and some titanium retainers for the head. I'd stay away from the skunk2 stuff.
Good luck,
Greg
All depends on how much power you look to make. Just running Eagle rods and JE pistons on stock sleeves you should be good "safely" to around 300whp. I know people have made more but a generalization. If you want more power resleve and upgrade the rods. I would go Ferrea or Portflow valvetrain. Keep the stock cams. GSR or ITR cams would be a worthy upgrade. CAI not really worth it either. Don't forget about 3" cat and 3" exhaust or atleast upgrading both over stock. Larger MAP sensor if you are running more then 11psi of boost. Gauges, boost controller, turbo timer etc... Upgrade fuel pump and injectors also. Don't forget clutch either. Depending on power you may want to invest in upgraded axles and slicks as well. LSD would be a nice improvement as well. It get's very expensive as you can see if you want to do it all right the first time. I'm sure there are things I forgot as well. Just trying to think of everything.
Good luck.
Good luck.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stick »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stick with stock camshafts for FI. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Trending Topics
What about GsR cams, ITR cams, a stage one, or maybe a boost cam?
If you go with a boost cam and gears you should definitely make more power than stock bumpers.
If you go with a boost cam and gears you should definitely make more power than stock bumpers.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -KangaRod- »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about GsR cams, ITR cams, a stage one, or maybe a boost cam?
If you go with a boost cam and gears you should definitely make more power than stock bumpers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
never heard of boost cams
his stock cams, GSR cams, or ITR cams at most is all he needs.
to keep cost down and add reliability and longevity stay with stock cams.
cam gears are good too.
If you go with a boost cam and gears you should definitely make more power than stock bumpers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
never heard of boost cams
his stock cams, GSR cams, or ITR cams at most is all he needs.
to keep cost down and add reliability and longevity stay with stock cams.
cam gears are good too.
Actually Crower makes a set of turbo cams and Skunk2 keeps saying they are but never released. They are basically high lift, but short duration cams. Never seen dyno plots though. Looks good on paper though.
Honda-Tech Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,828
Likes: 1
From: Woodbridge, NJ, Middlesex
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stick »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stick with stock camshafts for FI. </TD></TR></TABLE>
it actually depends on the size of your turbo, a 62 trim with ITR cams will make incredible power @ 8.5k rpm for example ... so nothing set in stone about camshafts to use, just keep it simple and start from there.
Greg
it actually depends on the size of your turbo, a 62 trim with ITR cams will make incredible power @ 8.5k rpm for example ... so nothing set in stone about camshafts to use, just keep it simple and start from there.
Greg
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



