hey guys I just recently got done with a jdm b16 sir2 into my 94 cx. The problem is that the motor and ecu is redlining at 7700 rpm!? From what I understand jdm b16's are suppose to top out at 8300? I don't have a jdm cluster nor a SI cluster, so I'm having to use a cheap aftermarket gage. Can there be something wrong with the wiring, or did someone **** me over on a ecu? Please help, I'm frustrated!

 

What is the serial ID number on the ecu. That will tell me alot about what ecu it really is. Could be that the tach is off by approx 1k rpm. That would put you in the 8700rpm range.

 

sounds like you have a p28 ecu or the jdm equivalent
or your tach is off

 

Or it's a B16 PR3 ecu for an automatic.

 

beta13, does automatic and manual have different redline points?

 

the ecu code reads...37820-pr3-j51 ...its an automatic ecu.

 

you have the right ecu for your motor...im not experienced with auto ecu's but you should do a search and find the shift points of that ecu

 

If it were an auto ecu you would constantly be throwing a code, are you?

 

No it's a myth that all auto ecu's throw codes because I've been driving around with one for 4 months with no code. The redline is at 7600rpm vs. the manual one being at 8200rpm. Adrian from hyperducktuning.com gave me the following information when I had the same problem:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adrian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
in 88-91 ecus (PM6, PR4, PW0, PR3, PM7):
5spd = 000, 001, 002, A00, A01, A10, J00, J001, C01, C00
Auto = J51, J50, A50, A51, 901, A60, C50, C51, X30, A80
</TD></TR></TABLE>

So by that chart you do have an automatic ECU. You can change it to a manual ECU but it's pretty difficult. You have to unsolder and move a jumper then solder it back in inside the ecu. If you look inside the ECU find the jumper at spot R68 and move it to R67.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beta13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No it's a myth that all auto ecu's throw codes because I've been driving around with one for 4 months with no code.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wonder if this doesnt apply to JDM ecus? My auto a6 ecu threw a code when I plugged it up to my ZC before I got the PG7. Hrm

 

beta13, Thanks for the info. does the ecu run like a regular manual ecu with the removal of the jumper? Is the unsoldering and soldering easy enough for any electricain to do? I ask because I know a few electricians at work.

 

I believe it runs totally the same except for the fuel cut-off. I did the jumper removal the other day but I've done a lot of soldering. The parts you're working with are very very small, it just involves precision soldering.

 

Beta13, I got some more questions.

I open up the ecu(Pr3) but there is already a jumper at R67. and Spot R68 is empty. Is there another way I can convert this to a manual?
Also, I'm throwing a CEL with this ecu. I haven't trouble shot it, but I'm sure its telling me its a auto ecu.
I ran the car with a P28. The car runs fine and doesnt throw any codes. Help me out yo?

 

Ask Adrian at http://www.hyperducktuning.com he will know.