Ok, I have a lot to cover and its pretty broad. First let me state that I have searched for numerous hours, and wanted to get some opinions on things after reading conflicting posts. First off, I am going to buy a 88-91 CRX Si as soon as I find one. My goal for the car is 13s long term, 14s near future (low 9s in the 1/8)

So it comes stock with a D16a6 and a 5 speed capable of low 16s, maybe high 15s with a good driver. We have a few options:

1) Build the D16a6. What is the real potential here? 13s is most likely turbo territory....is it accomplishable with a DSM turbo/bov/intercooler and whatnot relatively easily? (homemadeturbo.com)

2) Mini-me the D16a6. Y8 or a Z6 head, etc etc. Raises compression, have to run high octane. Y8 is higher compression, but flows worse, yadda yadda. Some say its worth it, some say a stock D16a6 with i/h/e will put down similar numbers. Whats the deal? And turboing a mini me is a possibility, but it can only run low boost due to the high compression. Reliability?

3) B series, primarily b16. So I would need the engine, tranny, mounts, axles, etc. A big pain and its expensive. Would have 160hp at least, though. Can be turboed with great success. Very unoriginal, but yields nice results.

If its at all possible can someone give me a 1/4 or 1/8 mile estimate on these setups (assume a little bit), a general ballpark price range, and what would be YOUR suggestion/what you would do given a perfectly running stock CRX Si.

Thanks, and yes I searched. Most of you here can answer my questions quicker than can type 'use the search function.'

 

or the b18, more potential for boost, plus more torque off the line..save a few more dollars and swap into a gsr or type r head and a few extra mods and the end result is a ls/vtec still on the cheaper side of swaps sompared to a crv/vtec

 

Anyone else have any comments

 

The b16 route will be expensive, but probably the best. Bolts ons + slicks will reach the 13's (and the swap alone will put you into 14's - good driving of course)

A homemade turbo route could be good, it would be cheaper than the B16 route - but not by too much... your looking at $500 for the turbo, IC, BOV, etc. (this would be REALLY pushing it for low 14s)

LS/VTEC (as a daily driver, wouldn't be too smart - unless built right $$$) You would be looking at $3000+ for a GOOD build - a lot could be done to the B16 for less money than this

 

I am doing the minime route, but also swapping in crower valve springs and a zex camshaft, and basically going all motor for now, adding an unorthodox pulley, have an 8lb flywheel and stage 1 clutch, swapping over to obd1, y8 intake mani, LS throttle body, and I/H/E. Might even throw in a port n polish at the machine shop next week, and this should throw me into the 14's, but hoping to creep closer and closer to 13's, with some a1 pistons to bump up compression, and some slicks.

 

How hard would it be to get a b16 crx into the 13s on street tires? Could it be done with I/h/e? There is an eg hatch here with a JDM b16, I/E and he is running a 9.3 in the 1/8. I want to take him out

 

B16's aren't necessarily 'the best'. The best setup I've seen (besides going H series) is the B20 block with B16 or B18 head. That way you have torque and displacement, but still have high revs.

Anyways, 13's on street tires... I've seen 2 in real life. One was in a 94 hatch, I/H/E, Hondata, some block work, and adjustable shocks; best time of 13.88.

 

B16 + homemadeturbo muhahahahaha

 

the b16 is tha best option. you can do a b20vtec, an lsvtec, or just leave it how it is. u got maany possibilites wit is.

 

I did a CR-VTEC (B20B w/B16A head) back in the spring. Since my block was so young (52K km/33K mi) I opted not to build it until I need to. This was also due to not having the money to do it at that time. I did modify the valve clearances on the intake side of the pistons. I converted the car to OBD1 at the same time. This was prompted from that I got a used 4-1 DC Sports header and the B16A two O2 sensor setup I had would not work with that header.

I have an estimated torque of 145 lb·ft and 220 bhp and get this, with all the torque and power, naturally aspirated, I get an average of about 35 mpg still. I have kept every gas receipt (I can use regular now with the lower compression ratio) and I have had as good as 41 mpg.

I keep the revs below 7200 rpm. This is a safety margin and also a downfall. I raced, unofficially, against a 5.0 litre and kept ahead until I shifted into 5th at 7000 rpm. I ran out of gearing.