Alright I got the car dynotuned a couple weeks ago, and it feels great on the street driving it every day, but as soon as I get on the gas and go high in the RPM's I throw a map sensor code. im only running 7.5 psi right now and my settings are basically -17 across the board in the wide throttle map. If I do turn the % down to -30 i don't get the ap sensor code but it just feels sluggish and I know im leaning out.

It was my understanding that you could run 10.65 PSI and any settings on the vafc without getting a CEL.

Anyone have any ideas what to do, I do have a 3bar map laying around...should I throw that in?

Thanks for the help.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DOHCarp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alright I got the car dynotuned a couple weeks ago, and it feels great on the street driving it every day, but as soon as I get on the gas and go high in the RPM's I throw a map sensor code. im only running 7.5 psi right now and my settings are basically -17 across the board in the wide throttle map. If I do turn the % down to -30 i don't get the ap sensor code but it just feels sluggish and I know im leaning out.

It was my understanding that you could run 10.65 PSI and any settings on the vafc without getting a CEL.

Anyone have any ideas what to do, I do have a 3bar map laying around...should I throw that in?

Thanks for the help.</TD></TR></TABLE>

-17 with 440cc injectors is really rich. you are getting the map sensor code because at -17 you arent trimming the map signal enough and its seeing boost.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by psileepR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

-17 with 440cc injectors is really rich. you are getting the map sensor code because at -17 you arent trimming the map signal enough and its seeing boost.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

What would be a viable solution to this? Should I throw in the 3 bar, but then have to worry about timing issues or maybe get a 4:1 FMU and run the hack at -30. thanks for the help.

 

what motor are u running? i was told to set everything at -35 across teh board and go from there. -17 sounds really too rich

 

my question is how you got to -17 on your high setting. i thought you had your car dyno tuned ... with a wideband.

mess with tuning your afc before your start adding stuff/taking away stuff.

 

i mean -17 sounds really off. i have never seen anyones settings at -17 anywhere. the most extreme i seen was -28 and thats about it and the most -40 why would you set at -17??

 

I did get my car dynotunned and it threw the CEL like 4 times on the dyno, but we managed to get lucky when I turned the boost back from 9 to 7.5. in the meen time I have not change anyhting on the car I left everything the same, but if I stay in boost long enough I get the CEL. I usually get it in 2nd gear if im launching the car, but if im on the highway and just punch it in 4th I usually get it around 6900.


the engine is an LS/vtec, stock block stock head with max-rev turbo setup. my brother is running a B18C1 with the same turbo setup and has his settings -40 across the board. my car just seems to like fuel.

 

I did want to mention I did get it dynotuned and every time we added more fuel we made more power, and we still needed more fuel.

 

u still havent said what motor u have.....

 

so if u got tuned, what was your a/f across the board? where's the dyno sheet? you're running a high comp motor with a turbo, and you're running it at -17 ? are u kidding me?

 

ok the afc hack stinks. I have been runnin it since april and I can't wait to get rid of it. go the inline pro set up. get a 12:1 fmu, head gasket, block gaurd, and missing link. keep the 440's and turn the boost up to 14psi or so. it will run a hell of a lot better than the hack.

the reason your car loves fuel is cause any leaner you will detonate because of timing not fuel. when you trim you injectors like the hack does the ECU goes to full advance. yeah you trick the ecu to not see boost but you also tell to advance timing all the way. I was detonating at 8psi with a head gasket(9.3:1 compression) and 60psi idle presure cause the afc was trimmed to -40% and causing the ecu to advance timing all the way.

 

also make sure your running the stock fuel pressure regulator. mine is set at -37% at idle and then a little up from there. Also make sure in your sensor menu you have it set at sensor type 6 in and 6 out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Racerage1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so if u got tuned, what was your a/f across the board? where's the dyno sheet? you're running a high comp motor with a turbo, and you're running it at -17 ? are u kidding me? </TD></TR></TABLE>

My A/F across the board was pretty flat only jumping into the 12's at high RPM's for a little. Here is the dyno sheet...sorry no A/F https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=599495 . Also the compression is only 9.5:1 sinci I am using stock LS pistons.

THe engine is a Stock block B18B, stock head B16, with a max-rev turbo setup on it.

 

turn up the boost

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nigel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">turn up the boost </TD></TR></TABLE>

As much as I would love to turn up the boost I will still get the map sensor code.

anyone have any ideas as to what i can do for right now before I get a stand alone? Also does anyone know where I can get a good price on AEM EMS.