anyone with a NA b18b with some good numbers
well im goign to be getting an Eg and i will eventually go hybrid and fo rteh money teh B18b is great. but iw ant more power than what did you guys do?
i would like to do the obvious but who makes some good cams for teh LS.
and no i dont wnat to go turbo and no i dont want to go ls/vtec....yet some lets forget about that for now.
Thanks guys
i would like to do the obvious but who makes some good cams for teh LS.
and no i dont wnat to go turbo and no i dont want to go ls/vtec....yet some lets forget about that for now.
Thanks guys
I will use the money I saved buying an LS instead of a GS-R to purchase ENDYN's Supercharger. Till then, I'm getting her ready!
Karl
Karl
I will use the money I saved buying an LS instead of a GS-R to purchase ENDYN's Supercharger. Till then, I'm getting her ready!
Karl
Karl
um i dont' know if im much help but my LS run's 14.7's all motor for now, here's my set up.
rs akimoto short ram intake
dc sport headers
opak exhaust
ngk plugs
accel firewire spark plug wires
stage 3 racing clutch
Comptech light weight flywheel
rs akimoto short ram intake
dc sport headers
opak exhaust
ngk plugs
accel firewire spark plug wires
stage 3 racing clutch
Comptech light weight flywheel
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Here is what I think would be doable set up on a LS for some decent NA times.
Hi-Comp Pistons at least 10.5:1 or 11:1
Crower 402 or 403 cams w/ valve train components to rev to 8000+
Headwork
ITR intake manifold
DC JDM 4-1 header(Since I assume you are on somewhat of a budget)
Hi_flow Cat and 2.5" exhaust
Custom mapped ECU for your mods with a 8600 or so redline
ITR Tranny
If money allows get some 84.5 mm sleeves and make that bitch a 2.0
I have no clue if this setup would make power up to 8500+rpms or not. I don't personally know if this setup would make anough power to be worth the trouble. it sounds lie a solid setup for a All motor LS. The question is would it be faster than just doing a GSR swap and spending the difference on mods.
[Modified by Strng1dah, 3:27 PM 8/14/2001]
Hi-Comp Pistons at least 10.5:1 or 11:1
Crower 402 or 403 cams w/ valve train components to rev to 8000+
Headwork
ITR intake manifold
DC JDM 4-1 header(Since I assume you are on somewhat of a budget)
Hi_flow Cat and 2.5" exhaust
Custom mapped ECU for your mods with a 8600 or so redline
ITR Tranny
If money allows get some 84.5 mm sleeves and make that bitch a 2.0
I have no clue if this setup would make power up to 8500+rpms or not. I don't personally know if this setup would make anough power to be worth the trouble. it sounds lie a solid setup for a All motor LS. The question is would it be faster than just doing a GSR swap and spending the difference on mods.
[Modified by Strng1dah, 3:27 PM 8/14/2001]
Hmm I seriously doubt 14.7 with those mods unless you have a stripped interior and even then...
Stock LS's run 16's. You're telling me those bolt-ons shaved 1.3 seconds off?
I have a LS btw too.
Oh yeah if you want to go to 8500 on a b18b you'd better throw a girdle and block guard on there as well as replace the rod bolts and probally head bolts too. Lighter rods wouldn't be a bad idea either.
Stock LS's run 16's. You're telling me those bolt-ons shaved 1.3 seconds off?
I have a LS btw too.
Oh yeah if you want to go to 8500 on a b18b you'd better throw a girdle and block guard on there as well as replace the rod bolts and probally head bolts too. Lighter rods wouldn't be a bad idea either.
wel guys im not looking to rev to 8500+ because i dont want to be checking my valves once a month. i want something that is reliable and fast. i would be happy with 160 ro so hp to teh wheels.
what im thinking about doing is just new cams, and IHE. i would maybe do some head work if money permits an di can find a good place to do it.
maybe this will make my goals a little more clear
what im thinking about doing is just new cams, and IHE. i would maybe do some head work if money permits an di can find a good place to do it.
maybe this will make my goals a little more clear
Hennessey,
Just be prepared the extra wear and tear on the main and conrod bearings if you intend to constantly rev past the 7000 rpm.
Here is my story.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=52826
Just be prepared the extra wear and tear on the main and conrod bearings if you intend to constantly rev past the 7000 rpm.
Here is my story.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=52826
i wouldnt raise teh redline at all(by the way what do ls engines rev to? 6400?)
That why i want te cams to be efficient instead of somethign that makes power at some rediculous rpm. i was lookimg at port flow and there standard head work seems like a good idea. any opinions on this?
so what cams make good numbers for an ls?
That why i want te cams to be efficient instead of somethign that makes power at some rediculous rpm. i was lookimg at port flow and there standard head work seems like a good idea. any opinions on this?
so what cams make good numbers for an ls?
Stock LS redline is 6800.
Heres teh deal though...cams and headwork (usually) make power up top...especially the bigger the cam is - the more it will lose bottom end and make power up top.
This is why you run into the problem of raising the redline - it become almost a "must" in order to take advantage of the mods.
I put Crower's 62404 cams in my B20. I gained 15+ HP and 20 TQ but at redline...in the midrange I actually lost quite a bit of power. So in order to "use" the cams to their fullest...I would need to raise my redline by 500-1000 RPMs so when I shift the RPMs fall at a higher point and I can be in my "powerband".
Heres teh deal though...cams and headwork (usually) make power up top...especially the bigger the cam is - the more it will lose bottom end and make power up top.
This is why you run into the problem of raising the redline - it become almost a "must" in order to take advantage of the mods.
I put Crower's 62404 cams in my B20. I gained 15+ HP and 20 TQ but at redline...in the midrange I actually lost quite a bit of power. So in order to "use" the cams to their fullest...I would need to raise my redline by 500-1000 RPMs so when I shift the RPMs fall at a higher point and I can be in my "powerband".
um i dont' know if im much help but my LS run's 14.7's all motor for now, here's my set up.
I had a pretty nice setup in my 93 DX a little over 2 years ago...
LS head ported by Portflow, titanium retainers, SS 1mm over valves
Crower regrinds w/ AEM cam gears
SRP 81.5mm pistons w/ slightly decked block(11.7:1)
ITR oil pump, ITR water pump
Modified ITR manifold to fit
ITR throttle body, RC 270cc injectors
Old school DC header to stock ITR b-pipe, no muffler
Filter-on-a-stick intake
Fields controller, Locash chipped PR4 ECU
ITR clutch pack, flywheel and transmission
No track times or dyno numbers, but I pissed on this GSR that ran 14.40s at the track. I mean PISSED on him. For a good three cars.
I'm sure it would get high13s on radials. The Civic was light and the motor was a torque beast.
LS head ported by Portflow, titanium retainers, SS 1mm over valves
Crower regrinds w/ AEM cam gears
SRP 81.5mm pistons w/ slightly decked block(11.7:1)
ITR oil pump, ITR water pump
Modified ITR manifold to fit
ITR throttle body, RC 270cc injectors
Old school DC header to stock ITR b-pipe, no muffler
Filter-on-a-stick intake
Fields controller, Locash chipped PR4 ECU
ITR clutch pack, flywheel and transmission
No track times or dyno numbers, but I pissed on this GSR that ran 14.40s at the track. I mean PISSED on him. For a good three cars.
I'm sure it would get high13s on radials. The Civic was light and the motor was a torque beast.
Why not just open up the motor and have everything (crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, clutch) blueprinted and balanced, replace all bearings, and put a Z10 block girdle in there and you'll have the solidity of a B18C (since they come with girdles already). That should allow you to safely rev to the point where the 404 cams can do their job best. With some cam gears, they can probably be tweaked to move some of that power toward the midrange and just sacrifice some top end.
Why not just open up the motor and have everything (crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, clutch) blueprinted and balanced, replace all bearings, and put a Z10 block girdle in there and you'll have the solidity of a B18C (since they come with girdles already). That should allow you to safely rev to the point where the 404 cams can do their job best. With some cam gears, they can probably be tweaked to move some of that power toward the midrange and just sacrifice some top end.
because with the money i would spend on that i owuld just buy a gsr swap instead.
Personally im not lloking to rebuild the motor. If i can find som one who knows what they are doing and will do it for cheap but im looking to not touch the internals....i.e. rods crank and slugs.
How did you like teh work port flow did Mike?
Mike D
Personally im not lloking to rebuild the motor. If i can find som one who knows what they are doing and will do it for cheap but im looking to not touch the internals....i.e. rods crank and slugs.
I need your opinions guys...and girls I guess. My dad's mechanic is great with Hondas. He doesn't do any tuning or turbos or any of that good stuff just the standard OE. He just did a rebuild for my brother's Prelude and it's running sweet. Anyway, if he were to rebuild my engine with OE parts it would be DIRT cheap for me because he's like family. Now, my master plan is, like many, performance on a budget. Should I do that and then go turbo?
My best time is a 16.5@83mph at Las Vegas Motor Speedway which Im told is not one of the best maintained strips and it was 100 degrees outside. Was also runnin on stock Michelins on front with back seats and spare removed. Wanna pick up some drag radials and hopefully that will help me out, along with sum cooler weather. The whole 14.7 thing is a bit unbelievable to me as well. I wish I was runnin 14.7s.


