engine oil what kind ?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HypeR1004 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">5w30 Motul 8100 </TD></TR></TABLE>
same here!!
same here!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 01SpecR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
same here!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
niice.....i need to pick up 5 more litres of motul and a Hamp filter soon
I highly recommend Motul oil
the oil still looks like new after 4960km
same here!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
niice.....i need to pick up 5 more litres of motul and a Hamp filter soon
I highly recommend Motul oil
the oil still looks like new after 4960km
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GettaluvR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what do you guys use ? i use 5w50</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm think that will void your warantee...
Why are using that thick of oil?
I'm think that will void your warantee...
Why are using that thick of oil?
Austrian Type R called Castrol today...He spoke to a capable man...
0-40 or 10W30 or 10W40 is only for street application
10W50 or 5W50 is good for motorcycles, not for cars
10W60 is the way to go if you like to race your car
My friends and I using it for a long time. No blown up motors and no oil burning...
Castrol RS Racing 10W60
(btw, this is no secret. A lot of people know)
0-40 or 10W30 or 10W40 is only for street application
10W50 or 5W50 is good for motorcycles, not for cars
10W60 is the way to go if you like to race your car
My friends and I using it for a long time. No blown up motors and no oil burning...
Castrol RS Racing 10W60
(btw, this is no secret. A lot of people know)
I was using Valvoline Syntech 10W30 for awhile, but that sucked big time. It seemed to burn pretty consistently, and without reason. I recently switched to Mobil 1 15W50 and have had no problems whatsoever
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR5874 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Austrian Type R called Castrol today...He spoke to a capable man...
0-40 or 10W30 or 10W40 is only for street application
10W50 or 5W50 is good for motorcycles, not for cars
10W60 is the way to go if you like to race your car
My friends and I using it for a long time. No blown up motors and no oil burning...
Castrol RS Racing 10W60
(btw, this is no secret. A lot of people know)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not as many people as you think.
BTW I use Agip 10W60.
No consumption at all.
0-40 or 10W30 or 10W40 is only for street application
10W50 or 5W50 is good for motorcycles, not for cars
10W60 is the way to go if you like to race your car
My friends and I using it for a long time. No blown up motors and no oil burning...
Castrol RS Racing 10W60
(btw, this is no secret. A lot of people know)</TD></TR></TABLE>Not as many people as you think.
BTW I use Agip 10W60.
No consumption at all.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HypeR1004 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">5w30 Motul 8100 every 5000km</TD></TR></TABLE>
ditto
ditto
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR5874 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Castrol RS Racing 10W60
(btw, this is no secret. A lot of people know)</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've been wrong before, but I think you guys are making a mistake using oils with high spreads. There just too many polymers in that stuff.
Have any of you had your oil lab tested to see if its tearing up you engines?
(btw, this is no secret. A lot of people know)</TD></TR></TABLE>I've been wrong before, but I think you guys are making a mistake using oils with high spreads. There just too many polymers in that stuff.
Have any of you had your oil lab tested to see if its tearing up you engines?
Y'know George, I noticed you burning oil the last time I saw you running at Summit Point. Coming into T9 at (I'm guessing) WOT, it was a pretty decent cloud of blackness.
Question - When driving the car hard, isn't oil consumption normal? If compression numbers are within spec and oil consumption is identified, is this normal....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by green_GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Castrol GTX--5W30
Oil change every 1500miles...car runs like a champ
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by green_GSR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Castrol GTX--5W30
Oil change every 1500miles...car runs like a champ
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RaVAGE00 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Question - When driving the car hard, isn't oil consumption normal? If compression numbers are within spec and oil consumption is identified, is this normal....
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That`s what I`ve thought for a long time... But no, it`s not normal and not good at all.
Look:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=596182
A friend of mine runs his Teg track only... Rev limit 9000 and shorter gears...
NO oil burning even on track.
You can see his car and spec on my website http://www.integratype-r.de
click on the small thumb of the cw ITR in the left frame
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That`s what I`ve thought for a long time... But no, it`s not normal and not good at all.
Look:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=596182
A friend of mine runs his Teg track only... Rev limit 9000 and shorter gears...
NO oil burning even on track.
You can see his car and spec on my website http://www.integratype-r.de
click on the small thumb of the cw ITR in the left frame
5W30 because that's what the manufacturer recommends in the owner's manual.
Mobil 1 because synthetic has greater resistance to breakdown when not, and flows better when cold, and I don't mind paying more for those characteristics.
Mobil 1 because synthetic has greater resistance to breakdown when not, and flows better when cold, and I don't mind paying more for those characteristics.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">5W30 because that's what the manufacturer recommends in the owner's manual.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The information about the manual is easy to explain:
The users manual is meant for street application and the industry tries to achieve cleaner emissions... That, and that ONLY is the reason, why 10W60 is not recommended for any newer car... ( this info comes directly from Castrol, who also sells oil like 0W40 but strongly recommends 10W60 for track use, even on all motor setups)
0W30 is enough for cruising and leads to cleaner waste.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The information about the manual is easy to explain:
The users manual is meant for street application and the industry tries to achieve cleaner emissions... That, and that ONLY is the reason, why 10W60 is not recommended for any newer car... ( this info comes directly from Castrol, who also sells oil like 0W40 but strongly recommends 10W60 for track use, even on all motor setups)
0W30 is enough for cruising and leads to cleaner waste.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">5W30 because that's what the manufacturer recommends in the owner's manual.
Mobil 1 because synthetic has greater resistance to breakdown when not, and flows better when cold, and I don't mind paying more for those characteristics.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used to burn 1 quart per 1500 miles or so (with M1). With other 5w30's I burnt less, and I burn alomost no oil with a 10w30. (on the track that is, i burn almost nothing around town, but I still burn more M1 5w30 around town)
The owners manual actually says you can use EITHER 10w30 or 5w30, depending on the temperatures. Seeing how it is relatively warm in Chicago from April until October, I see no reason why 10w30 isn't just as acceptable as 5w30.
Mobil 1 because synthetic has greater resistance to breakdown when not, and flows better when cold, and I don't mind paying more for those characteristics.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used to burn 1 quart per 1500 miles or so (with M1). With other 5w30's I burnt less, and I burn alomost no oil with a 10w30. (on the track that is, i burn almost nothing around town, but I still burn more M1 5w30 around town)
The owners manual actually says you can use EITHER 10w30 or 5w30, depending on the temperatures. Seeing how it is relatively warm in Chicago from April until October, I see no reason why 10w30 isn't just as acceptable as 5w30.
i dont believe a 5w30 gives any protection for track use since the oil goes up to 150ºC or more.....my choice is 10w60 in the summer and 0w40 for the winter...allways castrol
i´ll be ordering an oil cooler soon, better safe than sorry.
i´ll be ordering an oil cooler soon, better safe than sorry.
I alwas drive pretty hard. I was burning about one liter every 3000 kms with honda 5/30. I'm running ELF synthetic 10/50 right now. Seems to do the trick on the street, but it's pretty hard to find, unless you live in France. At the track I went through 3/4 of a liter of it though, so who knows....



