Car wont start! ECU fuse keeps blowing up
im having some trouble with my car that just started recently. I was driving and decided to go into vtec and took it to 8K RPM when the car shut off. Now this has happened before on a hot day, and all i did was replace the 15A fuse with a 20A fuse because the 15A kept blowing out. After that the car worked fine in and out of VTEC, but today it shut off when i went into VTEC. So i though id replace the fuse with another 20A, however that didnt work and i also tried all the way up to 30A and it kept blowing out. The fuse blows out as soon as i put the car to ACC position. So the car cranks but doesnt start. Also tired putting a wire on the fuse, but that still wouldnt work. The ECU fuse is the only fuse that blows out. I dont know what it could be. Could it be the alternator?? Any other suggestions?
The Car:
92 Hatch DX with 98 type R swap. I just used the type r OBD2 harness and plugged it rite into my DX harness and used a mugen chipped P28.
PS: i do have a check engine light for my O2 sensor, but i unplugged the sensor and that didnt help either. BTW does the type R motor only have 1 or 2 O2 sensors?
The Car:
92 Hatch DX with 98 type R swap. I just used the type r OBD2 harness and plugged it rite into my DX harness and used a mugen chipped P28.
PS: i do have a check engine light for my O2 sensor, but i unplugged the sensor and that didnt help either. BTW does the type R motor only have 1 or 2 O2 sensors?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TuRbEeZy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im having some trouble with my car that just started recently. I was driving and decided to go into vtec and took it to 8K RPM when the car shut off. Now this has happened before on a hot day, and all i did was replace the 15A fuse with a 20A fuse because the 15A kept blowing out. After that the car worked fine in and out of VTEC, but today it shut off when i went into VTEC. So i though id replace the fuse with another 20A, however that didnt work and i also tried all the way up to 30A and it kept blowing out. The fuse blows out as soon as i put the car to ACC position. So the car cranks but doesnt start. Also tired putting a wire on the fuse, but that still wouldnt work. The ECU fuse is the only fuse that blows out. I dont know what it could be. Could it be the alternator?? Any other suggestions?
The Car:
92 Hatch DX with 98 type R swap. I just used the type r OBD2 harness and plugged it rite into my DX harness and used a mugen chipped P28.
PS: i do have a check engine light for my O2 sensor, but i unplugged the sensor and that didnt help either. BTW does the type R motor only have 1 or 2 O2 sensors? </TD></TR></TABLE>
The JDM ITR motor has one towards the end of the header. The USDM ITR has one on the header and one on the catalytic converter. That is only depending on the ecu you are using. Your o2 sensor is not causing this problem.
Ok.. first you need to remember that there is a reason for those fuses. PROTECTION. That specific ecu fuse is there to PROTECT your ecu. You now may have caused damage to your ecu and possibly your wiring. One thing you always need to remember is never to switch out a fuse for a higher amperage fuse.
If your fuse keeps blowing, it's telling you something. You have a PROBLEM with the wiring somewhere. It could quite possibly be that you have hooked something up wrong (most likely), or you have some sort of exposure along a wire somewhere that is causing it to contact something with alot of amperage.
My advise is to use the original amperage fuse and inspect your wiring. Don't stop untill you find the problem..
Good luck, I'm sure you'll find the problem sooner or later. If worse comes to worse, tow it to a shop and have them look into it.
The Car:
92 Hatch DX with 98 type R swap. I just used the type r OBD2 harness and plugged it rite into my DX harness and used a mugen chipped P28.
PS: i do have a check engine light for my O2 sensor, but i unplugged the sensor and that didnt help either. BTW does the type R motor only have 1 or 2 O2 sensors? </TD></TR></TABLE>
The JDM ITR motor has one towards the end of the header. The USDM ITR has one on the header and one on the catalytic converter. That is only depending on the ecu you are using. Your o2 sensor is not causing this problem.
Ok.. first you need to remember that there is a reason for those fuses. PROTECTION. That specific ecu fuse is there to PROTECT your ecu. You now may have caused damage to your ecu and possibly your wiring. One thing you always need to remember is never to switch out a fuse for a higher amperage fuse.
If your fuse keeps blowing, it's telling you something. You have a PROBLEM with the wiring somewhere. It could quite possibly be that you have hooked something up wrong (most likely), or you have some sort of exposure along a wire somewhere that is causing it to contact something with alot of amperage.
My advise is to use the original amperage fuse and inspect your wiring. Don't stop untill you find the problem..
Good luck, I'm sure you'll find the problem sooner or later. If worse comes to worse, tow it to a shop and have them look into it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TuRbEeZy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
PS: i do have a check engine light for my O2 sensor, but i unplugged the sensor and that didnt help either. BTW does the type R motor only have 1 or 2 O2 sensors? </TD></TR></TABLE>
My brother's car kept blowing the ECU fuse because there was a short in the o2 sensor. The wire kept touching the exhaust (he's dumb) ******* took me 1 week to figure it out ...
PS: i do have a check engine light for my O2 sensor, but i unplugged the sensor and that didnt help either. BTW does the type R motor only have 1 or 2 O2 sensors? </TD></TR></TABLE>
My brother's car kept blowing the ECU fuse because there was a short in the o2 sensor. The wire kept touching the exhaust (he's dumb) ******* took me 1 week to figure it out ...
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dude for all you know you blew out your ecu now ... don;t ever do what you did. FIND THE SHORT FIRST ... anyway, plug in stock ecu without the harness adapter and replace with 15 amp fuse and try it, if it does the same thing, start finding short with a continuity tester, i.e. 3 power sources on ecu, check each pinout for continuity to ground then trace that wire to see where its shorting.
what went into your head about going 30 amp fuse then straight wire ? can you say fried diodes
greg
what went into your head about going 30 amp fuse then straight wire ? can you say fried diodes
greg
Well i realized what i did was wrong after i tried doing all those things. I also tired using another stock P28 and the fuse still keeps blowing. So i take it from your guys response that its probably a short somewhere along the ECU wiring? Well this is my first itme dealing with electrical problems, so can any of you give me some instructions on how to go bout finding the short. Also the thing is i never touched the wiring on my under dash harness when i did the swap, and my car ran fine before. Anyway if come1 can tell me how to figure out the problem it would be great help. Oh and what CHEETAH had posted but it doesnt make sense. thanx.
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It definatly sounds like a short, and all you can do is follow the wiring to find where you are shorting out at. Or take it to an electrical shop so they find it for you. It's not hard to follow yourself but it is (or could be) time consuming. Good luck to you
Gloria
Gloria
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