I'm about to rip out the ABS system on the ITR. What exactly is needed to be removed or plugged.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

thanks,
Paul

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bgod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm about to rip out the ABS system on the ITR.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, first let me say the ABS that comes on the ITR is by far one of the best ABS that ever came on a honda/acura. excellent feel, and not too intrusive at all. that being said, if you really want to remove it for whatever reason, i suggest purchasing a few brake lines and prop. valve for a non-abs (ls) integra and swapping those in. you can then remove the abs motor/computers/lines etc. this is the way i did it in my car. also, ou will need to pull the guages and remove the ABS bulb in the cluster. all in all, a very simple job.

 

a good setup is 92-95 non abs booster, 91 civic ex master cylinder, 94-95 si non abs prop valve, brake lines from a 92-95 civic will bolt in. the abs master cyl has a larger hole for the brake line and its on the wrong side. you will need all the lines except for the rears where they come out of the prop valve and go to the back.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepinonacreeper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a good setup is 92-95 non abs booster, 91 civic ex master cylinder, 94-95 si non abs prop valve, brake lines from a 92-95 civic will bolt in. the abs master cyl has a larger hole for the brake line and its on the wrong side. you will need all the lines except for the rears where they come out of the prop valve and go to the back. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You really shouldn't need to replace the booster and MC. The Civic guys bolt in the ITR booster and MC all the time without ABS. I would think that the lines and propo would be the only problem.

 

I just realized that as well. I used to run an ITR 5-lug on my old eg hatch about 3 years ago. At that time people were always telling me to run the itr booster and mc set-up though I never had a chance to before I sold the car.


I do realize the abs systems on the Integras overall are very good. However, I just picked up the itr and will need to source a new suspension for it. The car will be far, very far from daily driven. The plans are for a big brake kit up front which I have not yet decided on. The key is to make the car as light as possible while still maintaining it's driving characteristics.

The car will be an oem all motor car made for some track/lapping days which I've been dying to do. The car will strictly be used for this purpose and unless I get the itch to start parking the thing in Manhattan.

One question though, would changing the booster/mc all be necessary? I would think that an option would be to disconnect the abs and possibily leave it at that?

 

a good ABS system (like the R's) will stop better than a good driver, because it can control each brake individually, and you can't. ABS is an advantage.

 

the car will not be used in the honda challenge. it will be used for lapping days during the weekend for fun.

at this point, it looks as though it will be easier to remove the abs rather then keeping it as i will need some new lines.

again, i appreciate the advice and it's been noted.

but if anyone can give me a difinitive way of removing the abs or just disconnecting it some way. there seems to be some different ways listed above.

 

I've only noticed my ABS kick in twice in my limited mileage. Once was an onramp to the interstate where I noticed a car at the last second and I had to slamn on the brakes and after sliding on some loose gravel, felt it kick in with some modulation. The other time was at the track where it felt like I ran over a significant size rock. When I mentioned this "1 bounce large LUMP feedback" to a fellow racer, he suggested that it was probably ABS. I had taken that corner rather hot and late and the rock feedback in the pedal was towards the end of braking. In my handful of track days, this was the only time I've ever noticed ABS kick in. I wonder if the ITR ABS allows some initial lockup before kicking in. One time when I came to the end of a straight, I messed up learning heel and toe, lifting off the brake when I was trying to blip the throttle, resulting in really late braking, and actually locked up for what seemed like a couple of seconds before I hooked up with 2 outside wheels on the dirt in the corner! I've drifted some corners a bit and quite drastically on auto-x without noticing ABS.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bgod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the car will not be used in the honda challenge. it will be used for lapping days during the weekend for fun.

at this point, it looks as though it will be easier to remove the abs rather then keeping it as i will need some new lines.

again, i appreciate the advice and it's been noted.

but if anyone can give me a difinitive way of removing the abs or just disconnecting it some way. there seems to be some different ways listed above.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Isn't there an ABS fuse to pull to disable the system?

 

Removing ABS from an ITR is a silly affectation IMHO - in the same league as JDM sidemarkers or Spoon magnetic drain plugs (though at least they do not degrade the performance of the car in any way).

I have never seen one good reason for doing it. The effectiveness of ABS may have once been debatable, but the case is now closed. Look at the difference in stopping distances between the old non-ABS and the new ABS-equipped Viper, for example.