I'm just trying to get feedback good or bad. I already posted in the ITR forum and thought that I would give the All Motor guys a try. I have a blown engine and am thinking about going with something other than stock. Interested in the 1.96L kit with 11:1 comp. and crower stage 2 cams. The 1.96 kit will give me the most displacement without haveing to resleeve the block. I'm also looking at a daily driver that needs to be reliable and smogable(is that a real word?)

If you think this product sucks <U>please</U> give valid reasons as to why it sucks. Such as previous experience with the kit, technical specs,reliability issues, or poor service with their poducts.

Thanks in advance

 

i also am curious about the stroker kits, Crower or Eagle, for the B18C blocks.
i am planning to resleeve and go with an 85-86mm bore, but was considering the stroker crank and rods in order to get the most displacement possible since it's a N/A setup. but it will be daily street driven with a 8.5-9K redline.

just like stale1 said in the first post, anyone who has had experiences with the stroker crank/rods please give us some insight into why or why not to use them.

BTW, i'm not trying to take over your thread stale1. just looking for info like you are.

 

BTW, i'm not trying to take over your thread stale1. just looking for info like you are.

It's all good. I'm not one of those guys who jumps down your throat over little things. If you search you can see what the guys in the ITR forum wrote. It was all negative. Seems like it is a fairly new product with out that much info. I might have to be a guinea pig. I just pulled my motor and took it to the machine shop yesterday. The crower kit takes about 4 weeks to get so the earliest that I will have results will be about 2 months from now.

 

Resleeve with an 85mm Bore and keep the stock stroke...best bet.

The crower kit is low compression and too much money to not make alot of power.

Suprdave

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Suprdave &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Resleeve with an 85mm Bore and keep the stock stroke...best bet.

Suprdave</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah that's kinda what i was thinking. i personally am definantly resleeving and overboring to 85mm, but i was wondering what kind of performance the stroker kits would give overall in addition to that. i'd hate to ruin the R/S ratio and have a mismatch with cams or other components, and therefore lose power or possibly even reliability. those are my main concerns with increasing the stroke.

 

I think Crower uses a LS crank.

 

good point greenR. i wasnt lookin into it personally for myself but i was checkin out the site today. woudlnt it b way easier to go out by an LS crank for $100 slap in the longer rods $400 and the pistons of ur choice $500 rather than give crower $2500 for something u can spend easily less than half on??? unless ur made of money and want the big stroker kit bling factor i dont see the point.

 

i don't know much about the Crower stroker kits, but using a 89mm crank compared to an 87.2mm crank doesn't really constitute 'stroking' IMO.

maybe that's what Crower uses, i don't know.

but i've read about the Eagle stroker kits and that's what i primarily was referring to and interested in. 95mm stroke with matching rods. so about 7.8mm more stroke over the GSR crank and 6mm more than the LS crank. if i went the route of stroking a B18 or B20 block, it would be Eagle. of course using an LS crank/rods in a B18C is the cheapest way and will give you roughly 37cc more which is good, but it's not an incredible gain really. i was thinking about using the Eagle stroker crank setup with an 85-86mm bore size after resleeving. or just go the resleeving route with overbore and forget about the stroker crank since it may affect the top end negatively more than i thought.

any other input for us?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GreenR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think Crower uses a LS crank.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's in the b16 stroker kit!

stroking would give you a better feel plus porting your head will help it breath a lil. though crower does just give you a horrible rod to stroke ratio. and if you bore it out a lil bit more you will then have bore to bearing distortion which is not a good thing either when reving real high! ( I rev to 9500) dont know what you will rev to? theres ways around like making your own stoker utilizing the 95mm crank so you can go have fun in how long your rod wants to be or how specific your compression is on your pistons! ( seems like more fun to me I have done it) well have fun but all in all if it wants something out the box and you will feel it! then go with the stroker crank.

 

i'm not sure what stale1 will rev to, but i was gonna go to about 9K if i use the 95mm crank and rods from Eagle. maybe 9.5K with stock GSR crank depending on the cams i decide on and where they make power. i don't want to go crazy with the rpm limits if using the stroker crank setup. i'm willing to sacrifice some top end for some low end/midrange power and torque. but i don't want the R/S ratio change to drastically effect the top end in a negative way since N/A cams normally are peaky and make most power up top. i was thinking about 2.1-2.2L displacement in a B18C block, using the 85mm bore and 95mm crank stroke.

ALLMTRWHORE, what crank are using when reving to 9500 rpm?
what's your R/S ratio?

anyone use the 95mm crank setup in a B18C with a stock or 85-86mm bore?
if so what was the redline, and with what cams and C/R?

thanks for the input.

 

[QUOTE=sweet
ALLMTRWHORE, what crank are using when reving to 9500 rpm?
what's your R/S ratio?

anyone use the 95mm crank setup in a B18C with a stock or 85-86mm bore?
if so what was the redline, and with what cams and C/R?

thanks for the input.[/QUOTE]

well my rod to stroke ratio is around the same a GSR like 1.58:1 but I dont use a gsr or ls crank I was messing around one day and figured how I can utlize off the shelf parts and well the only thing custom is the piston in alot of ways plus alot of things go into how high you can rev something but at higher rpms understand that oil becomes forced out by the bearings because of the stroke but the rod ration is cool so I dont heat **** up alot but understand also that to utilize all this you have to have your head ported and a nice bottom end! take it wasy you guys I like this thread

"**** I should open up my own shop I like talking about all this **** to get all people in this sport real fast"

 

so you are using a B16A block or a B16B/B18C block height?

if the only thing custom is the pistons, i'm just curious what rods were used to keep within the deck height of whatever block you're using. you don't have to give away lots of details, just explain how you made it work a bit. i have been thinking about different OEM components to use in order to get max. disp. and C/R etc.

i realize how the piston will change the displacement and C/R etc.
so that part i understand.

one thing i was going to do possibly was a B16A block, with B17A crank and rods, new sleeves with 86mm bore, and custom 12.5-13:1 pistons. that won't get me over 2L like i was going to do with the B18C block with 86mm bore size, but it'll be roughly 1.9L which isn't too bad. less dis. but better R/S ratio for higher rpm use with matching cams. i aleady have an extra B16A shortblock, a B17A crank and B17A OEM rods with new ARP rod bolts. i would probably go with Crower rods or something lightweight for N/A duty instead of the OEM rods if i have the $$.

anyone know if Crower makes Economy B17A rods, instead of the standard ones?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sweet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone know if Crower makes Economy B17A rods, instead of the standard ones?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

No. I think even the Crower ones are not right. Check out g2ic.com . I think a lot of b17 guys bought the Crower rods and they were to long. Apparently they are b18 rods but they are listed as working in the b17.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Skeletor &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No. I think even the Crower ones are not right. Check out g2ic.com . I think a lot of b17 guys bought the Crower rods and they were to long. Apparently they are b18 rods but they are listed as working in the b17.</TD></TR></TABLE>


man that would suck ordering a set of rods labeled B17A and then they don't fit.
i really haven't looked into it much, but when i get time i will do some research to find out which companies have B17 rods available.

i was told they Eagle says the B16A rods will work in the B17A, but it's obvious that they won't cause the piston will stick up too much out of the block past the deck height.

 

well I still use a b18c block just cuz I like to say it's gsr stock! hehe

um and I dont use stock stuff I use aftermarket rods (probe) and any piston company will make you a piston to yours specs! ( ross,wiesco very good companies)

all I got to say is look at me previous post bro and study it the answer is in there.

but in my experience in seeing what many upon many people do is boring! not very good and your tendency to blow headgaskets very, very high! I am not saying I have not bored my engine either but just saying I take it apart when I feel things are wearing out!

just curious on who will do your engine? and what your intentions of this motor wil be used for? every setup varies for person to person and I have freinds with various setups from 1.6 -2.1 B series motors so just seeing how it will be used? I think this thread is going off topic just IM me

 

Just to let everyone know, I plan on running my car to about 8400 rpm (stcok type r redline). I usually run my car at willosprings on the big track but I have to give it up cause engines are costing too much to fix. I will eventually take it back out to the track when my finances get better. Basically, if I'm going to tear the engine apart and replace the crank then why not stroke it? That is the question. I just happen to live in San Diego and that's where crower is. The machine shop that I'm using is in tight with Crower also. Hence, the topic of this thread. I just want to replace stock with something better while gaining some ponies along the way and keeping reliability on a daily driver.

 

the the ITR motor is perfect! just get some gearing, higher comp pistons and some cams and you should be fine stroking will just add tolerneces that the TRACK will inflict on your motor!