Toe changes for Lowes?
Anyone planning to reduce their toe-out? I noticed the CRX was pretty darty under braking going into T1 at Summit and VIR, and think that the 1/4" total front toeout has something to do with it. I'm willing to give up a bit of turn-in quickness if I can lose that random sideways movement at 100+, especially with the walls at Lowes.
One day a couple of years ago I had my upper ball joint carrier bolts on one of the Skunk arms loosen up during a session. I eyeballed it and tightened it up, and drove another session. I didn't notice the car being darty under braking, but it sure turned in well - I noticed afterward that the tires were feathered heavily on the insides. Later back in the shop I measured about a half an inch of toe out. I've typically found rear toe out to be the source of most of my braking instability problems.
Scott, who no longer has stabilty problems...with his car...
Scott, who no longer has stabilty problems...with his car...
With only 5 braking zones (2 of which are hard IMO)... I would leave the toe as is.
If you feel unsafe at the 'hard' braking zone (the only one near the concrete wall) just push away from the wall a little and stradle the painted stripes.
If you feel unsafe at the 'hard' braking zone (the only one near the concrete wall) just push away from the wall a little and stradle the painted stripes.
An 1/4" is to much for just about anywhere. 1/8" would be the most I would run at Lowes. The important thing to me is the speed loss due to scrubbing, and the braking zone for turn one is very dicey because the track isn't flat. Turn 3 is also goes from leaning one way to the other in the middle of the braking zone. Having a stable car in both those places is very important. I think we usually run Adams (phat) car at straight to a 1/16 there.
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RR98ITR
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
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Oct 30, 2001 11:13 AM



