Curious to know if certain brake rotors are made for certain types of pads over others.

Reason I ask is because my old setup had very violent shaking once they heated up. Shaking to the point there I could hardly hold the steering wheel and felt like the car was falling apart. No exaggerating. So not knowing the history of that setup, I decided to get new rotors(spoon front, powerslot rear) and pads(green stuff) while I had my car in the shop (I know I know, dont tell me I shoulda got something else). That setup seemed to be great at first, but recently has begun to do the same exact thing and its only been about 4500 miles. Kinda strange that two entirely different setups are doing the same exact thing, and it was suggested to me that it could be a problem with the calipers since that was the only common part between the two setups. So I happend across a used set of ITR calipers and I figure Ill throw them on and see what happens.

If for whatever reason that doesnt work, do you think maybe I should just try a different set of pads? Something that works better at a higher temp or something? Please dont tell me to ditch the spoon bling and get OEM or Brembo blanks, I already have the spoons and would like to use them. They work fine until they get toasty warm. Thanks

 

What kinda fluid are you using?
Also maybe the pads have a build up on them?
The shaking only happens when hot?- are you sure its not a tire problem?

 

Dont know what kind of fluid.

Pads dont have build up on them.

Tires are fine and happens no matter what tires I have on.

FYI, the calipers I bought used from SOMEONE ON THIS BOARD are garbage. Thanks for the shitty calipers guy

 

I don't think the Pads to rotor have anything to do with it. I mean Spoon Rotors can be used with other pads. Not sure why it only does it when the brakes heat up.

I can tell you this: EBC Greens GET REALLY REALLY HOT!!!. Spoon Rotors have Slots or Cross Drilled Right? So I wouldn't worry about build up. Hmmmm

Not too good though. Why not TRY this. Get some Stock Rotors and Pads and see what Happens. I am not trying to be a Smart *** I know you want o keep your current setup but truth be told it's not really working for you at this point. Suggest to go back to the begining and start over from there. Get the Auto Zone Rotors and some pads (Can't be that expensive) Since this has happened with two sets of Rotors Two Sets of Pads and Two sets of calipers I SERiously doubt it has anything to do with either one of those Components. But To ultimately rule ot out go back to Stock and see what happens.
Don't know what else to tell you other than that.

Normal things that cause these symptoms are Warped or damaged rotors. If the Spoon Brakes are Crosdrilled I woun't use the GREENS with them

 

Yes try differnt pads ebc's suck *** for cars, it is very possiable that they are leaving uneven deposits on the rotor adn that is was causing the shaking, so that even if oyu change pads it wont go away. You can do what I did, which is take some brake fluid and sand paper and spray the rotors with brake fluid and rub the sand paper on them. This got most of the build up off of my rotors. Then go buy some good pads like Axxis Ultimates or Carbotech Bobcats.

However dod you feel any pulsing in the brakes when they are cold?

 

Thanks for the help guys. NO pulsing in the brakes AT ALL when they are cold or normal operating temps. If I look at the rotors, you know how you can see the "wear" marks on the rotors where the pads rub(lines that the pads make), well mine are very uneven looking and some spots appear to be more worn than others. So I think I will try some good pads and brembo blanks and see what happens.

As far as cleaning the rotors I have, Ill try that brake fluid and sandpaper method. But what about having the rotors turned or grinded to clean them up? Can you do that with slotted aftermarket rotors?

 

You have 'hot spots' on your rotors.

A pic of your rotors would be helpful.

Have you tried getting the rotors turned??

 

BPR said it.

Depending on how the pads were broken in, and depending on how you press the brake pedal (i.e., smooth, or stabbing), you can have hot/cold spots on the rotors from material transfer. It is pretty well documented on this site that usually when you think you have warped rotors, it is in fact due to stabbing at the brake pedal, causing film from the brake pad to be left on the rotor, causing temperature changes, causing that horrible shake. I had that same shake at the expo.

My instructor swore up and down it was the rotors. Even after Andie fixed the problem (rebed and told me to be more smooth on the brakes), my instructor still said it was warped rotors, although i never had the shake again, so i guess it wasn't rotors, eh? And since the fix, I haven't had the problem again.

The standard 'your rotors are warped' answer on here is almost always wrong.

That said - I'm sure certain pads like the EBC's just can't hold up in certain conditions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Big Phat R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have 'hot spots' on your rotors.

A pic of your rotors would be helpful.

Have you tried getting the rotors turned??</TD></TR></TABLE>

This what I figured, Ill try to post a pic for future reference. It is pretty clear on the rotors that there is uneven wear going on and kinda looks like hot spots. This is caused by crappy pads correct?

I dont "stab" at the brakes, I brake smoothly as far as I know.

I wasnt sure if you could turn aftermarket slotted rotors, thats why I have not done that yet. I think I will give that a shot first, and get some new pads, and see how that works.

Chris, Ive read all about that false rotor warpage phenomenom and Im pretty sure the rotors arent warped. It does appear to be a problem with the pads leaving material on the rotors and generating hot spots.

Thanks for the help fellas and Ill let u know how it comes out

 

What was your bed-in procedure?

Improper bedding can make this a problem from the start.

Axxis Ultimates are a good pad. I've heard Bobcats can be noisy. I'm putting Ferodo DS2500 on in a few weeks.

I had EBC and they hot spotted and wore out in 5K miles of street driving.

Problem with turning hot-spotted rotors is that the metal in these spots is differentially heat-treated after the fact, such that parts of the rotor are now harder than the rest, meaning that they'll wear differently, collect pad material differently, and pulse as the material transfer becomes uneven in future build-up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bill Hook &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Problem with turning hot-spotted rotors is that the metal in these spots is differentially heat-treated after the fact, such that parts of the rotor are now harder than the rest, meaning that they'll wear differently, collect pad material differently, and pulse as the material transfer becomes uneven in future build-up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not sure what a "bed-in" procedure is.

So you are saying that the rotors could be worthless and the problem will just return again even if I run a better pad? I dont like the sound of that, I hate throwing away money

 

Go read StopTech's white papers. The problem is likely to come back. I'd go with some of Andie's Centric rotors and skip the fancy stuff, like slotting, to save money.

StopTech should also have info on bed-in; Baer has info on it too.

You can e-mail Andie for some more info, if you want.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bill Hook &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Go read StopTech's white papers.
.
.
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StopTech should also have info on bed-in</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, exactly. The link is here. It talks about brake shudder and includes a description of bed-in procedures.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bill Hook &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The problem is likely to come back.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe, maybe not. You can reduce the likelihood of it recurring by following proper bed-in procedures any time you change pads or rotors, by gently using your brakes to bring them up to operating temperatures rather than taking them out and hammering them when cold, and by giving the brakes a proper cool-down period (laps and driving around the paddock) any time you get them really hot.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Maybe, maybe not. You can reduce the likelihood of it recurring by following proper bed-in procedures any time you change pads or rotors, by gently using your brakes to bring them up to operating temperatures rather than taking them out and hammering them when cold, and by giving the brakes a proper cool-down period (laps and driving around the paddock) any time you get them really hot.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had horrible brade shudder from film/material transfer. It never came back after a good bedding and properly warming up, cooling off, etc. It IS possible to rid yourself of these issues after one bad occurence.

 

I know it just a matter of opinion but I don't know what so many people here say that the EBC's are bad???

I have them and the GREEN Stuff is the Street verion of the pad. I have had these pads for a cpouple of years and Still have good MEAT and Stops the car rather well. Problem with Carbon/Kevlar pads is that they get really HOT.

Even with the Hight Heat I never Noticed Brake Fade or problems stopping. Although I did have to get used to them locking up (Non ABS)

Not saying the EBC pads are the best thing out there I am just saying that they are not GARBAGE IMO.

I am going to try some Lockheed CF Pads on my R. I got them free to test the product so I don't know what they will be like. I know they are probably not going back on my car after they get used up cause they run about 200 bux a set of 4

 

While not the answer to your problem, some OE applications use different rotor and pad composition.

Nothing to be concerned about for you though...